If you're getting 12 volts to the solenoid trigger wire,battery load tests good,but solenoid doesn't jump power to the starter post,then still sounds like a faulty solenoid.

 

I have tried 3 of em on it two used and one brand new. Guess i will get another one and see what happens

 

Could the wire from the soleniod to starter post possibly be the issue

 

Nevermind that cause i can jump the post

 

IF the solenoid is working,voltage jumps to the starter wire,possible that a little corrosion on the starter connector itself can be the problem even though you can jump the posts and the starter works.Weird things can happen with electronics and usually it can be something simple. Loosen the nuts on the solenoid and starter a little and move them around and tighten back up. One last thing is make sure the solenoid has the paint removed where the screws mount it to the battery box. Simple things like grounding can cause problems also.

 

Ok thabks for all your help. Ill quit bugging u and let ya know what it was when i get it running

 

I was soldan incomplete solenoid it did not come with the metal mounting brackets so it was just sitting in the rubber housing unit and there was no ground to it. So I bought some metal brackets put them on it and it started right up. Thanks for all your help.

 

Thought grounding could be your problem.People forget that the solenoid has to have a good ground on the air box that's tied into the frame ground.

 

I have 2004 predator, having some confusing electrical issues. When i was up north riding this past fall it ran fine all weekend until the last 30 miles of trails and it just died l, no power to the lights, starter nothing. Got it home and now finally getting around to fixing it. Problem lies here, when I turn the key on my nuetral light comes on and so does the rear brake light if I touch the pedal, as soon as I go to hit the headlight switch or the starter all lights go out and no juice in the machine what’s so ever. Starter will click from time to time but not as much as it should. Now you wait a few minutes and the power magically reappears, any ideas why the thing won’t start.

 

Start at the source first which is the battery. Check connections and load test it even if it's new. They may show over 12 volts at rest but under a load a battery with a faulty cell can drop like a rock. If the battery and connections check out,look for a sealed pouch with a 20 amp circuit breaker inside. Should have voltage going in and out on the red wire.Under a load they can trip if corroded/worn out inside the pouch. Usually located up from the battery on the main harness. They can kick off when hot and kick back on when cooled down a bit. Slice the pouch open,replace the breaker. You can get these at any auto supply. The parts break down lists it,but doesn't show it's location. Item#2.https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/po...-ad/electrical