Predator 500 tricky electrical problem
#1
Predator 500 tricky electrical problem
Hello all!
So I'm working on an 05 Predator 500 and I'm having pestilence! When I turn on the key the neutral light doesn't come on. I've done everything I can think of. I've checked all the grounds. I checked the ignition switch. I've checked those black bags.
I can get it to start and run by holding in the start button and connecting the red/black and white/red wires coming out of the left handlebar controls. It starts and runs but the starter stays engaged because I'm keeping the wires connected. When I do this, the neutral light comes on. If I let go of the started button, it dies. If I stop connecting those 2 wires, it also dies.
I'm stumped, it seems like I have a wire grounded out somewhere?
I've also unplugged everything that doesn't make it run like rad fan, headlights, taillight, clutch, both brakes. It runs doing those 2 things but I'm stuck...
Thanks!
So I'm working on an 05 Predator 500 and I'm having pestilence! When I turn on the key the neutral light doesn't come on. I've done everything I can think of. I've checked all the grounds. I checked the ignition switch. I've checked those black bags.
I can get it to start and run by holding in the start button and connecting the red/black and white/red wires coming out of the left handlebar controls. It starts and runs but the starter stays engaged because I'm keeping the wires connected. When I do this, the neutral light comes on. If I let go of the started button, it dies. If I stop connecting those 2 wires, it also dies.
I'm stumped, it seems like I have a wire grounded out somewhere?
I've also unplugged everything that doesn't make it run like rad fan, headlights, taillight, clutch, both brakes. It runs doing those 2 things but I'm stuck...
Thanks!
#2
Kinda sounds like the problem is in the contacts in the kill switch { off-run off } in the left handlebar , try spraying some contact cleaner in from the outside into the cracks and work the switch back and forth - many posts on here about it and also unsuccessful attempts to take the switch apart so I wouldn't recommend trying to take it apart .
#3
Also remove the black kill wire from the cdi module and see if it runs.If it does could be an internal cdi problem on the kill ciruit. If it doesn't help,then replace the left control switch as Yooper265 mentioned. Common problem for these to fail plus the connectors leading into the switch can pull back a tad and not make good contact from vibration over the years.People have mentioned they can get it to run by securing the connectors with tape or zip ties firmly to the switch. Switch replacement solves that problem also.
#4
I tried to run it with the black wire disconnected and that didn't help. I sprayed contact cleaner in the left controls and that didn't help.
I should have said this before but I already replaced the left controls and cdi trying to figure this out.
More info - I don't have a battery for this atv. I'm using my pickup battery with jumper cables. I can't imagine this would be the problem. But, this battery starts my Silverado fine but barely cranks over this Predator.
My goal is to get the neutral light on when I turn they key on. Currently the neutral light is grounded with the key on or off so it seems like a wire is wore through and grounded out somewhere...
I should have said this before but I already replaced the left controls and cdi trying to figure this out.
More info - I don't have a battery for this atv. I'm using my pickup battery with jumper cables. I can't imagine this would be the problem. But, this battery starts my Silverado fine but barely cranks over this Predator.
My goal is to get the neutral light on when I turn they key on. Currently the neutral light is grounded with the key on or off so it seems like a wire is wore through and grounded out somewhere...
#5
#7
Then best to get this cheap 5 buck manual.2005 Polaris Predator 500 Service Manual PDF Download Damage may have been done by jumping off the truck. Electrical tests can narrow down problems along with the trouble shooting guides and wiring diagram.
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#9
It's not voltage as both the atv battery and larger vehicle batteries are 12 volts,but amperage(current flow) that can damage sensitive solid state devices such as a cdi or regulator and wiring that aren't designed to handle that much. I've seen it happen too many times at the shop when people jumped off machines from cars and trucks especially on dead or non existing batteries and burnt up things. You might be lucky and haven't done that,but still that's a good place to start and the manual has resistance specs and tests from the stator on up to help eliminate items. Seems cdis and regulators were worst on this and some wiring. Again I hope it's something simple.