I've been studying this for about 1/2 hour now. I rotated the photo to match the manual. Can you see if there is anything incorrect? I can post the before photo, it's much different.


Looks just like the manual?

 

Here is the before - looked very different than manual, but it worked...


before - different than manual

 

Spring tension should be tight on the detent lever,not hanging out like you show. You should be able to flip the lever and the spring should force it to kick back against the stop pin. Springs are cheap if it's been tampered with too much and stretched. Look again at the picture of the Niche cam in relation to the detent ball,lever position and spring.

 

See if this helps a little better. Short end of spring is seen,long end at the notch on the left side of the detent lever.

 

Look again on the manual pics as it's really fairly easy.

 

I took the cap off again for a better look, and to get some better photos. I also recorded a quick video. Can you please look at these? From what I can tell, this looks exactly like the manual picture, and like the pictures of new cams on eBay (from the links/photos you sent me). Is this installed correctly?



Matching manual picture - please confirm



Closer view of spring

 

I ordered a new spring, I'm thinking it's too weak?

 

This is right. It's slow on the return because of all the assembly lube you have on it. Even without the lube it's not really all that fast on the return. The engine force on cranking kicks the lever out,when running the spring pulls it back in place.Try it as is,looks like the spring is ok. Make sure the small slit in the thermostat faces up. A lot of people over look this.Trapped air bubbles rise to the top out the slit to the return hose. Go through the bleeding procedure again when you get it back together.

 

Still won't start. Will pull the carburetor off next to dig into this. Will also do a compression test. Started up just fine with new after market carb before the rebuild. Won't fire even with quick start spray.

One thing I noticed - the rubber boot is leaking a small bit when trying to start the engine. That shouldn't prevent a start-up should it?

Thank you for the tip on the thermostat!

 

Replace the cracked boot and then check compression. Should be between 55-90 psi(or a little higher) because of the decompression device. Plus looking back,what did the machine shop do to the stator plate you mentioned? Plus is the timing mark on the plate aligned with the case mark?