Polaris trail boss 250 - no lights
#11
Turn the meter on to dc volts. Black lead to battery negative post or good ground. Positive lead to first side of the breaker leading from the battery. Should have voltage.Same thing on opposite post.If no voltage on the other breaker post,the the breaker has faulted and needs to be replaced. IF you have voltage passing through the circuit breaker, problem could be in the left control off/on switch.Work the switch back and forth and see if you have power.Sometimes corrosion on the switch can cut power.If you have an older model,should be a terminal board on the left side of the frame under the front cab.Should have power on the red wires,the red/white wire terminals should power up with ignition key switch on.If they don't, the problem could be the left control switch is faulty and needs to be replaced. A simple test light can work also. Just hook it to a good ground or battery neg post and probe connections.
#12
#13
While out tonight I just picked up a main breaker, no difference. What is next to try? I wiggled the left grip side switches to no avail. Everything was working then all of the sudden one time I went out to start and everything is completely dead but will start right up by pull start. Even while its running no neutral or anything electronic.
#14
If the breaker has voltage(both sides) it's sending this power to the left control switch.Make sure the wiring from the breaker up is ok. Voltage from the switch to the rest of the machine for the starter,lights,regulator,etc. You still don't say what year model as it could be as problem on the terminal board if an older model. Even if it's a newer model there should be voltage at the red/black wire from the on/off switch while in the on position. If there is no voltage, then he left control switch is faulty,OR the terminal board connection at fault(again depends on year model),or a ground problem not allowing power to the ignition switch red/black wire.As far as starting,these old magneto triggered ignition systems don't have to have the battery to run.
- Does the ATV need to be running while I test the voltage?
- If not, does it need to have a charged battery?
- Does the keyed ignition switch have to be in the ON position?
- Lastly, am I looking for 12 volts or just anything at all?
Oh, btw I sent a pic of the ATV which I believe to.be around a '94 but could be older.
#15
Old teal color Trail Boss. 94-96 if I remember. Look on the right frame down tube. 94-96 with 8527 suffix for the year model. Also first two digits of the engine serial number on the recoil housing are the year model. Doesn't have to be running on checking voltage at the breaker,but battery has to be in good shape.
#16
Also if you're getting power through the breaker,but still no power to the dash or ignition switch,move the on/off switch back and forth several times.Still no power,pull the tank cover and follow the left control switch wiring to the terminal board and check for corrosion on the terminals and wiring. While you're there pull the black wire from the reverse limiter module(part#34 in the parts break down) you don't need it and when you get it running right you wont have to push the reverse over ride button on the left control switch to get full power in reverse.IF you're still not getting power from the left control switch at the terminal board wiring,it could be could be the problem.This is a new terminal board,doubt if yours looks as good.
#17
Old teal color Trail Boss. 94-96 if I remember. Look on the right frame down tube. 94-96 with 8527 suffix for the year model. Also first two digits of the engine serial number on the recoil housing are the year model. Doesn't have to be running on checking voltage at the breaker,but battery has to be in good shape.
#19
Start checking for shorts.Should be right at 12 volts or so going through the breaker to begin with. Make sure the main ground from the battery is secure at the engine,plus the engine to frame ground strap(at the top motor mount is ok) Again check the wiring from the ignition switch and left control switch at the terminal board. All it takes is a little corrosion on the terminals to drop voltage,plus look at the wiring in the main harness sheathing.Also pull the black wire from the reverse limiter I mentioned earlier to defeat this module.Wouldn't hurt to pull the red wire from the regulator at the terminal board just to eliminate it while checking wiring connections.Located above the limiter module.
#20
Start checking for shorts.Should be right at 12 volts or so going through the breaker to begin with. Make sure the main ground from the battery is secure at the engine,plus the engine to frame ground strap(at the top motor mount is ok) Again check the wiring from the ignition switch and left control switch at the terminal board. All it takes is a little corrosion on the terminals to drop voltage,plus look at the wiring in the main harness sheathing.Also pull the black wire from the reverse limiter I mentioned earlier to defeat this module.Wouldn't hurt to pull the red wire from the regulator at the terminal board just to eliminate it while checking wiring connections.Located above the limiter module.