I changed out the carburator because the old one leaked gas out the intake, float bad or valve or something. I decided since the machine was as old as it is I'd replace the entire carb. The only screw adjustment I see on this thing is the one to adjust for the idle and the cable for the choke. It idles great, but bogs down when I give it gas and then dies. Any ideas?

 

First off if this is one of those Chinese aftermarket carbs(Caltric,etc),pull the float bowl and clean out all the jets and and openings.Make sure the jets are the same as what's in the oem carb! People have found all kinds of trash in these carbs. Wouldn't hurt to pull the top cap and check the diaphragm,spring and that the slide needle clip and plastic holder is in place. The fuel screw if like the oem carb is preset under a block off plug at the front of the carb.If cleaning out the jets,etc doesn't help,make sure you have good flow from the fuel pump. Pull the fuel line at the carb and crank the engine over. Should be a steady or pulsing flow of fuel.You can also open the carb bowl drain screw to make sure fuel is getting past the needle and seat. Just my worth on this,a good carb kit on the better quality Mikuni carb you have would have been a better choice. They can be easily rebuilt if not damaged.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindy-Carb...FVSUjR&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the information on the rebuild kit, I have another machine that needs the same thing done to it. I did figure out that I needed to open up the gas/air mixture screw. Wow they make that near impossible to do on this machine. It is impossible from what I can see to do this while it is running. I made my own 1/2" long screwdriver to do this. I had to make so I could move the carburator in order to get that screw driver in to make adjustments. Adjust it, then run it, adjust it then run it, pretty tedious but finally got to where I needed it to be.

 

325/330 carbs were the worst as most of the fuel screws(pilot screw) were set too lean from the factory. I've drilled out too many block off plugs and found screws to be set at 1 turn,1/2 turn out and even one carb pilot screw that was closed. 325/330 were cold natured machines anyway but this made it worse on cold starts when the choke had to be used longer to compensate. Small hands and a small screw driver you could fine tune the screw when warm to get a steady idle,but with big hands like mine I had to use a carb tool.Some have made their own,Motion Pro has some cheap ones,plus there are gear operated ones like I have that could do other things than just adjust carbs.