Looks really nice.

 

Great, never knew it came in rattle cans!

 

New HD springs in. New contactor and wiring for three point hitch installed. Increased preload on rear springs from position 1 to position 3. Putting the body back together this afternoon. Taking it slow and lots of breaks due to heat and working in the sun. Pictures to follow. Hopefully disassemble brakes tomorrow.

 

Here is how I mounted the contactor for the 3 point hitch switch. Since it was the same size and hole pattern as the Warn contactor, I was able to mount it upside down underneath the bracket for the warn contactor. I just used longer bolts to hold them both. I jumped power to the new contactor from the battery leads on the Warn contactor with 12 gauge THHN wire. Then I ran 14 gauge out to the back of the ATV.. I have a 14 gauge inline fuse coming and will splice it in when it arrives. Add a 20 amp fuse, a connector out the back, and it will be finished.





I used a blade splitter to add the red wire to the ignition switch at the same point as the warn switch. This provides 12v that the switch sends to the two different sides of the contactor. It was done over with shrink tubing.

 

As far as the ATV, well, something looks different about it today that I just can't seem to put my finger on.......

Before:



Now:






The wires hanging out the back are for the 3 point hitch. I still have not decided on what connectors I want to use. As far as the center winch panel, I did not paint it since the clips on the bottom of it were broken and it just flies off on the first bump. I ordered another one that is coming in. The new front springs lifted the front a lot, and the front rack is much more level.The front fender was 29" at the center of the wheel, now it is at 31.5". A 2.5" rise. Upping the rear shocks to position 3 helps a bunch, too.

So far:

New seat upholstery,
new front springs
Rear shocks adjusted up
new fuel filter
new fuel lines
new fuel switch
Rebuilt the carburetor
new fuel pump
new front and rear bumpers
racks removed and painted and put back with all new screws, new reflectors and labels.
New switch added with contactor and wiring for 3 point hitch
Wiring harness repaired from critter damage.
rear hitch derusted and painted
new Kolpin 2" receiver installed.
Purchased new 8" drop hitch
Purchased a 2" D ring tow bar
Purchased a 20 foot grade 70 transport chain and added a grade 70 slip hook
replaced winch line and fairlead
independent suspension lockout unit installed

lots of Washing and power washing.

Lots of cussing and sweat.

Lots of fun and satisfaction..

 

Still to go:

Fix the brakes
ensure the AWD system works properly.
set up connectors for 3 point hitch and add a inline fuse.

Then I'll be done for now.

 

You better keep that locked up , Your friend is going to want it back now that you got it top notch! Make sure he doesn't still have a spare key LOL Good Job & posting pictures I am always forgetting to document my before and after picts.

 

Hahaha^
Really does look nice, housedad. You did some really nice work, especially on that seat. Looks factory.

 

Thanks, guys. I appreciate it.

Well, I tore the brakes down and god some pleasant news. The rear brake caliper was working with the hand lever. It was not working with the foot pedal. The front brakes were working but only slightly.

On tear down, all the caliper bores and pistons were smooth and not pitted. Surprisingly, the fluids were still golden and not dark or green at the calipers . the masters were filthy. The foot master was stuck good, and it seems the seals themselves had glued into place from rust, but again with clean bore . The handlebar master bore was clean and shiny after cleaning. Brake pads were rusted up pretty bad, so they need replacing. The hardware is in decent shape, and bolts were not rusted. Air blows through the lines easily, so they are not collapsed or clogged.

What this means is that the brakes parts are in good enough condition for a rebuild of the originals all around or just go aftermarket replacements.

Do you want me to add pics of this process to the thread if I rebuild instead of replace with aftermarket?

 

Something else just happened. The rubber boot on the CV joint on the front left just gave out. Ripped in half. Checking the boot, it is dry rotted, so that means they all probably are. Time to change the boots. Sigh.