New boots ordered for right front axle. I think it tore because when I changed the springs, I must have pulled the shaft out of the CV joint. Ah, well.

Rebuild kits for front and rear calipers, both master cylinders, and new brake pads are ordered too. All that will be in by Monday 13th. Hopefully the ATV will be fully ready by the 15th.

 

I would be interested in seeing some pics of that rebuild. I'm the kind of guy who would just buy all new parts, so I would like to see the process. I know it saves a bunch of cash.

 

Ok, will do. More fun for me. I like to buy new parts too, and cash is an issue on this. Total for the rebuild kits and the pads is $126. The boot kit (inner and outer) for one axle was $30.

I'm wayyy over budget for all the ATV rework.

 

Yes Might be overbudget but look at the money you saved by doing work yourself the quality of work and OUR entertainment value ! You could of BOUGHT a good used atv without the accessories and still had the same issues! I rebuilt 8 calipers on my Polaris atv's had to buy a used one cause bleeder was broke off when I got and replacement NLA fairly easy job to rebuild once set up I think others will find it interesting one you start using it on your property you wont be sorry!

 

All parts and tools are in now. ATV in the air on a jack and tires are off. Brake job commences tomorrow, finally.

 

Ok, all of the calipers and Master cylinders are off again. I had to work in short shifts of about 20 min each since the heat and very high humidity today. I also removed the front shaft that had the torn boot. Sure enough, I had pulled the axle out of the outer CV joint. The inner CV was stuck on the front case real good, and no amount of pulling and pounding would get it out. I then realized that it was probably rusted on the splines and stuck, and had it out in about 15 minutes after that..

I gave the axle a few jerks and slight prying with a screwdriver to give a little room between the joint and the casing. Then I sprayed PB blaster into the gap as I rotated the axle and then pushed the axle in as far as it would go. I tapped the end of it with a hammer a few times. to seat it back in. Then pull the axle and gave it a few good jerks. Repeat. Repeat. after a few cycles of this, it started to to start to slide out slowly and after about 10 pulls, it came out.

The spline was covered in mild rust, but the PB blaster had reached all the way to the clip and loosened it up and allowed it to move.

I see that I'm going to have to replace the boots on the other axles soon, as these were mildly dry rotted in the grooves.

Now to start the rebuild process. Pictures when done.

Edit: The masters are done. Pictures in a few min. I am so lucky! The bores are good!

 

pics or it didn't happen!

These updates are great. Appreciate you sharing.

 

Just for you, Pigseye, I shoved the axle back into position and made a couple of pictures.


Torn up boot


You can see the PB blaster turned the rust into mud and loosened it all up. It went all the way to the end. With the rust wet, it looks far worse than it is.

 

Here is the obligatory shot of the boxes and bags of parts.



Caliper kits are from All ***** Racing
Master cylinder kits are from Quad logic.
Brake pads generic carbon kevlar
Axle boots from Race Driven
14 ga fuse block generic (copper)

 

Rear Master cylinder.


As removed:


Since I am not going to reuse the outer dust seal, I did not care if it survived, so I pried it out with a small screwdriver at the slot.


Under the dust seal there is a steel thrust plate and considering the condition of it and the piston that I pulled out, I feared the bore was gonna be toast.


This was right after cleaning with a 12 ga nylon bore brush and carburetor cleaner. What you see on the surface is condensation from the cleaner making it cold. After drying, it was a decent bore. No pitting or rough spots. Still shiny. Go figure. The washer had left a lot of rust on the lip, but that was easily brushed away with a small stainless wire brush.


The good and the ugly.


It is very important to get the seals into the correct direction and placement. As you can see, they are slightly different. One has ribs in the groove. Wet them and the shaft with a small amount of brake fluid, and ease them on with your fingernails. Coat the bore with fluid, and ease it in with the spring attached. A tap with a hammer will seat it home on the second seal going in.


The new dust seal. Major pain to get back in at first. It is larger than the hole and kept bunching up as I tried to push it around with a pick. Don't forget to put the thrust washer on fhe plunger first!


Here it is, finished. I found that using a deepwall socket that was just smaller than the diameter of the dust seal could put enough pressure for me to guide it in with a pick.