Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

HELP! removing primary clutch to remove broken bolt

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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 07:36 PM
  #1  
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Okay, I got a white spring, I got the clutch apart, got the spring in... torquing up the LAST of those 6 bolts that hold the clutch cover on, the wrench clicks at 12 ft-lbs. All good. As I stand up, my left hand slips on the fender (what I was grabbing to help me up), and guess where my other hand came down. Bingo, right on the wrench. Snapped the bolt right off. I've got an EZ-Out bit, and all the stuff to get that broken bolt out, but I don't have the oomph to drill into the bolt so as to get it out. What I need to do is remove the clutch so I can put it underneath a real drill.
How, in the name of all things holy and non-broken, do I do this?!?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 08:30 PM
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Campy,
Sorry about you misfortune, sounds like my kind of luck.LOL
You shouldn't need to remove the clutch. Be sure you are using a hard enough bit,(carbide, or colalt) and a drill that will turn under 650 rpm. Keep the bit cool, I use this stuff called acetal alcahol, or boelube, but oil will work.
I use this method every day at work drilling out steel and titanium fastners from aircraft. I am sure you can get it out. just remember hard sharp bit, slow drill, keep it cool, and press hard and steady.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 09:41 PM
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If memory serves me, those are grade 8 bolts(at least the crankshaft one). Did you remove the rest of the clutch cover? You may have a better chance if it has some piece sticking out.

You should be very careful before drilling, as you can muck up those threads, and removing metal can cause the clutch to become out of balance.

If it's flush, you might be able to score a small slot, and use a screw driver to remove it. If you know a GOOD welder, they may be able to attach a welding rod to it and remove it.

Good luck,

Rainman
 
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 09:43 PM
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Hmm... okay... I think I can do that...

Thanks for the help, I'll post when I get that bolt out.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2001 | 09:58 PM
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Rainman,
The bolt that broke off was one of the six around the outside of the clutch cover, holding it on and in place. With the clutch cover removed, the bolt is just about flush.
So far, per my grandfather's advice, I've got a dent in the bolt that the drill bit will rest in, and its about dead center of the bolt. My plan is simply to drill in a little ways, and then screw the EZ-Out bit in, and then just reef on that until it comes out.
After school tomorrow, I'm going to see if I can get a harder bit from him, and try drilling again.
I don't think I could get enough torque to unscrew it with a screwdriver, nor do I think I could make a big enough slot in the bolt to use a half-decent screwdriver in, anyway.
Also, because of the size (or lack thereof) of the bolt, I doubt I could have a piece welded to it... it would probably become welded to the clutch, as well...

So... now all I have to do is get my hands onto a carbide drill bit that's the right size......
 
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 10:14 AM
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If you have to buy a bit anyway, why not get one with a backwards twist? I have had very good luck removing twisted-off bolts with just the left-hand drill bits. As long as the bolt is twisted off from overtorquing (not because you twisted the head off trying to loosen one that has rusted in place) it comes out about half the time without the use of an E-Z out. Be very sure you get a bit smaller than the bolt (you don't want it to kiss the threads in the clutch housing) and be sure you are centered. Put your drill in reverse, and have at it. It actually works better if you run the drill faster as the heat from drilling will often help break the threads loose, the bit will grab, and the bolt will back out.
If you use a regular bit, go with the previous advice of slow RPMS because sometimes the bit will create enough heat to break the threads loose, and screw the bolt deeper into the hole.
Good luck
PS BIG A & NAPA both carry left-hand bits in my local town, and it is a pretty small town, so I am sure you could find them somewhere.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 04:34 PM
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Hi, I haft to agree with farmr. Make sure and start off in the center of the bolt by center punching it, sometimes to do it you need to file or grind the bolts so it is flat and then center punch it. If at all possible get a left handed drill bit ( its not cheap but highly recommend) and soak the bolt with some kind of lubricant (wd-40) first. Like he said make sure and use the proper size drill bit, cause if you do need to insert the bolt extractor and your hole was a little to big the thin sides of the bolt will expand and actually make it tighter. That's my 2-cents
One other thing you might check for a little more info on atv connections home page and go to tech tips, I think there is something in there on drilling out bolts.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2001 | 09:06 PM
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Got it!

I just used a very small drill bit (normal direction), drilled in a little ways, then used the EZ-out and it came out no problem. It felt like the broken end of the bolt was hardly even screwed in tightly, just sitting there.

So anyway, as for the white spring, the engagement is higher and a little more forceful, which I like, and it pulls harder from 5-40mph (that's all I've had room for so far), which I also like. The higher engagement is going to take a bit of getting used to, but I like it already. My next step is a K&N filter or maybe the full Power Kit thingy.
Or maybe new tires... 489's, perhaps...
 
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Old Jun 6, 2001 | 08:37 PM
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Campy,
Glad to see you got it out without any damage or heartache.
 
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