For starters, I used to own a 98 SP, which I purchased in March of 98 and came equipped with EBS as standard equipment. Polaris also offered a none-EBS unit and to differentiate between them the EBS model was red and the none-EBS unit was green. I don't know how long they offered it this way.

Orge, the noise you here from your rear end is most likely the splinned sliding drive shaft/s due to loss of lubrication. The only fix (apart from modify the shafts as I did) is to remove the outer section of the shaft, clean the splines and re-grease. This should be done at least once every 2 years, preferably once every year.

My 98 unit was a great machine, when I traded it in it had 2000 miles on it and was still on the original U joints. I am a preventative maintenance fanatic and as a result I lubricate my quad after each ride.

In my opinion the major weakness of the 98 SP is not the rear drive shaft (even though I agree that CV’s are better) but the steering components. Tie-rod ends and the lower steering bushing. All of which can be upgraded at a relatively low cost.

 

-Ogre scratches head-

Traildog, what's a splinned sliding drive shaft? Is it a splinned drive shaft that supposed to normally slide (but in my case doesn't slide very well?).

Could you describe this to me a bit further, like what exactly I'm looking for, location of problem area (where lube is required) - and maybe a description on how this procedure is accomplished?

I'm not too familar with Polaris' powertrain details (brother's quad) - and I'm kinda getting roped into this, as he doesn't like to turn the wrenches as well as I do.

Just to be more clear, the quad makes this creeking, popping noise as it sits, turned off (I can't hear it while riding - but it certainly may still be happening). As you compress the right rear - you can hear and FEEL the creeking (almost like something is binding).

Side note: I checked it again and even with the U joint straight up and down, it creeked - so it doesn't appear (as said earlier) to matter the position of the U joint.

Thanks,
ogre

 

bmxatv10,
You should actually read and understand a post before jumping down someone's throat. I mentioned the EBS to give an example of a mid year change as the sentence just prior to the EBS statement indicated that the switch to CV joints was possibly a mid year change.

 

Tealboy, NADA says something different and I figured they would. That is why I posted my resource (May 2001 issue of Dirt Wheels) in my original source. Purchase a copy of the issue and check out page 137 or I can fax you a copy. Also, NADA guides are usually based on zip code. I have no idea how Dirt Wheels compiled their data. I only stated them as my source of info.

 

Ogre, it isn't that hard, but you do need some tools to replace the U-joints. You will need at minimum a good vice and a couple sockets. A press is even better. I know Harbor Freight as well as a couple other places sell U joint tools, and I never used one (have both a press and a vice) I think they should work OK since the U joints aren't too big.

1. Get the shaft off the bike. This should almost explain itself for the most part. The outer end of the shaft goes through the hub, you need to take the outer hub nut off to be able to pull it through (you will most likely have to take out a couple hub mounting bolts to get enough travel to do this). The inner end of the shafts on the machines I have seen (I by no means have seen them all) are held in by a large roll-pin, sometimes called a spring pin. This should come out with the proper sized punch & hammer. If all is well, you should be able to remove the shaft by first getting the hub & outer bearings off the shaft, then pull the shaft out of the gearcase. It goes without saying to have the machine blocked up to do this. Cowboy came up with what I consider a good idea. He supports the quad from above with a hoist and tree limb. No blocks in your way or to have fall over, and you can winch the thing high enough to not have to stoop so much.

2. Now that you have the shaft in your hand comes the fun part (easy for some). Find the spring clips that hold the individual bearing cups in the yolks. They may be hard to see, but they are there. Usually tight against the yolk, fitted into a groove in the bearing cup. Look at the new U joint & you will see a groove in the cup. This is the same location as the groove in the old one. Keep in mind they are tough, spring steel, and are placed so as not to come out accidently, so they may be hard to get out. Sometimes placing the joint on a workbench, and hitting the bearing cup (and not the yolk) will loosen it just enough to come out easier. Use an impact socket a hair smaller outside diameter than the cup as a punch.
3. With all 4 clips removed, now find a socket that the cups from the new bearings fit into easily, but is not bigger than the eyes of the yolk. In your vice, press, or U joint tool, push on one CUP (not yolk, use the small socket from step 2). On the opposite side of the U joint, you want the bigger socket oriented so that the cup will push out of the yolk, and into the open end of the socket, with the socket pressing against the outer eye of the yolk. Be careful not to put so much pressure as to compress the yolk eyes together. When the cross hits the 'end' of travel, the cup should come out. You may need vise-grips to get it the last little bit, or it may fall right out, but it should go. Now push against the exposed stub of the cross to get the opposite cup out. You should be able to now seperate the 2 yolks. Use the same technique to get the other 2 cups out. Do this on both sides of the shaft.
4. Now to re-assemble. Clean up the yolks good and grab a new u-joint. put electrical tape across 2 of the cups, or clamp them together with a C clamp (you don't want the cups to fall off). Some people remove the cups, and that is OK too, as long as you cover them with a rag or something to keep dust out. Press one cup just a little into the yolk, just so it won't fall out. Now weasel the cross into the yolk any way you can, and put one end of it into the cup as far as you can. You will need to remove the opposite bearing cup to do this. Press it in, using the 2 sockets like before, until the cross is about flush with the opposite yolk (you actually will have pushed it farther than you needed to). Now grab the other bearing cup, and place it in the eye of the yolk gently, so as not to disturb the rollers inside. Now work the cross so it is about halfway into each cup. This will prevent a roller from falling against the end of the cross. Now gently squeeze the cap into place. This is best done just in the vise, without the sockets for now. Do your best to keep the cross centered between the caps as they come together. When they hit bottom, stop pressing, and put the spring clip in the cup that has the groove exposed. Now use the 2 socket method to get the other cup into place. These are precision things, so as one snap ring will hit 'bottom' the other should appear. Tap GENTLY on the eye of the yolk in the direction that better exposes the groove, and install the other snap ring. If it doesn't fit, chances are one or more of the little rollers (bearing needle) fell over and is between the cross and the cup, you will have to figure out which one it is, and press it out, re-align the bearing needles (easy enough to do, just put a gob of grease on your finger, and push it into place, then run your finger around them all to be sure they are tight agains the outside of the cup). Do this with the other 2 cups on the other yolk, repeat for other side.
Also, seperate the slip-splines and grease them at this time. If this all sounds too confusing, e-mail me directly (go to my profile) and title the e-mail 'U joint' or the like (we got a virus and just got everything back to normal, so I don't open e-mail unless I know what it is). I can sketch a few crude diagrams or answer any other questions if you need it.

U-joints are an odd thing. The guy who greases them often will go many, many miles without a hitch, and the one who doesn't can hammer them out in 500 miles, or less if he goes in mud a lot.

Good luck with it.
Farmr

Best is to find a friend who knows how to do this, and offer him a 6 pack of his favorite beverage to show you how it is done, because believe me, showing it is MUCH easier than explaining it, and it easier to understand.

 

Ogre,
PS the splined drive shaft they were talking about & I mentioned is the little joint (probably under a boot) that telescopes to allow the driveshaft to become longer or shorter as it needs to as the suspension works up & down. Think of it as kind of an expansion joint. They will squeak if the grease dries out of them, as well.

 

Mike500, so sorry dude, didn't mean to make it sound like i was jumping down your throat dude, i was just telling you exactly when it came out sorry man!

Peace Out !!!!

 

Orge, if you like I can scan a few pages from my workshop manual and email them to you. Interested?

 

Farmr123 & Traildog - thanks so much for all the knowledgable help you're offering, I really appreciate it. The polaris owners on this forum always seem to offer me a hand when I need it - no silly brand bashing!

Farmr123 - Thanks for the large write-up, it will help lots once I have the machine in front of me; I appreciate the time you put into that.

Traildog - If its not too much of a bother, I would love to get those scanned pages from you (my email address should be in my profile). Whatever pages you think would help (descriptions of the method for tear-down, diagrams). You would know better than me what is needed.

All I know is that somethin' "ain't" right with this thing. Again, I would probably be more familar with this quad if it was mine - I tend to give my affection to my honda.

Edit: By the way, I'm not sure if this matters on what to scan, but our '98 sportsman has U joints in the rear, not CV boots (Like later models).

Thanks again,
ogre