Can anyone explain how the reverse rev-limiter system works and how the by-pass does it's job?
I would like to know:
How the system knows it is in reverse?
What component or conection is being by-passed?
therock

 

i believe there there is eigther a small switych on eigther the shift lever or inside the tranny itself that wen something pushes on it it activates the circuit. im not posative if that is it though.

 

Which machine? On my 00 SP500 the rev limiter is controlled by the speedometer. I think it is set for 7mph. The override switch simply cuts it out of the circuit. I dont know where it picks it up on my SP335.

 

I'd like to semi-bypass mine. I want to force reverse to _always_ be in 4WD, but still have the rev-limiter active until the override switch is pressed. Anyone know if this is possible ('00 SP 500 and '95 Xplorer 400)?

The reason I want 4WD always active is that my wife always forgets to press the override button when backing up in sand. So, she gets herself stuck, I tell her [again] about the override button, she presses it and then launches out of her stuck position (or, more likely, _I_ have to get on it to get it unstuck). Sure would be easier if reverse was always in 4WD.

-Mike

 

I dont know if thats possible, because they are part of the same system. I guess if you could find the spot where the two functions come together,you may be able to. I would bet that they are linked though. I will look at my wiring diagram and see what it shows

 

Making the AWD on all the time seems fairly easy to do on the SP500, but finding which wire feeds back to the limit setting seems to be the problem. I cannot seem to find how it actualy produces the limit (engine cut out). I will keep looking. Does anyone else have any Ideas. I have actually added a key switch to my SP335 to work like the over ride push button.

 

While considering this, I'd try it yourself for a few weeks. You lose turning radius, in general, when turning around in 4wd. I would find this frustrating, and my gfriend would clip more things than she does now.

Rich

 

o2b4unc,

Fear not, the girlfriend will be OK. The Polaris will not be permanently locked in 4WD. The front wheel hubs will still only lock when the rear wheels slip. Steering will still be as easy as it always is. You simply won't have to push the annoying yellow button to get 4WD in reverse.

DJ

 

this is courtesy of jack shultz,

To eliminate reverse rev limiter and obtain 4-wd without having to press the override button on a '99 SP500 w/o the terminal board.
Open the harness under the front hood as it comes out of the headlight pod. There are a couple of batches of wires, pick the one bunch that has a purple wire in it. Cut the gray/orange wire and seal both ends. Attach a jumper wire from the purple wire to the gray/white wire. I soldered mine and then taped everything up. This deactivates and reverses the switch. Now you have reverse 4-wd when you are in 4-wd without the button. You have no rev limiter to contend with.
It is deactivated by cutting the gray/orange wire. With this setup the reverse light will always be on. I ran mine for an entire season without any ill effects, but the light bothers some. This spring I added a diode to the circuit to correct this. This circuit can be made to function normally by adding a diode in the jumper
wire with the power going towards the gray/white. The light will now work as normal, with it being on only when in reverse. The diode you use must be 12v @ 20 amp min. I used an old car alternator diode that was 13.4 v @100 amp and soldered it in. make sure you seal the diode up to protect from water and shorting out. I coated mine with liquid tape. Just make sure the diode is hooked in properly with the current going the right way, from purple to gray/white. Some may want to have a rev limiter for some reason (kids), etc. which
you could do by adding a switch. You could wire in a three-way switch that would cause the purple wire to contact either the gray/orange as it should be stock, or the gray/white as if pressing the override in. This switch would give you the same effect as pressing the override button, but would be engaged for any length of time that the switch is on. I put the switch in the blank switch hole on the headlight pod, but haven't ever hooked it up. I just got so used to it working without the override that I don't see a need for it myself, but it might not be a bad idea, with kids. When initially hooking up I tested the hookup with alligator clip wires before soldering in. It works great.
--
Jack Schultz
Digital Design & Imaging
http://www.godigital-design.com
jschultz@erie.net

 

Here are others that were compiled by V. Greg Hintze.

OK, these techniques to override the reverse rev limiter (yellow) button have been tried successfully on ’99 model Polaris machines without
a circuit board. The headlight wiring modification will work on any Polaris with the three light setup.

From William Bashlor we have this method of bypassing the switch. Find the purple wire and the gray w/white stripe wire that comes from
the override switch. Cut these two wires and connect them together so the switch is eliminated from the circuit. That’s it. This simple
method, will however, leave the reverse indicator light lit up continually in both forward and reverse gears.

The method Jack Schulz employs is a little more complicated but allows the indicator lights to work as they were originally intended.
Disconnect or cut the gray/orange wire coming from the speedo and you eliminate the reverse rev limiter. Find the purple wire and the gray
w/white stripe wire coming from the switch (yellow button). Instead of cutting them, patch a 12v 20amp (minimum) diode between them with
the power able to flow in the direction of the gray/white wire. This allows the reverse circuit to power the AWD while in reverse and does not
allow the AWD circuit to power the reverse indicator light when not in reverse. This method leaves the yellow button hooked up so it has the
advantage of allowing you to use it as it was originally intended in the unlikely event that the diode would burn out.

The method I use is a combination of these two, for two reasons. First, I want my reverse indicator light to function properly because that’s
where I’ve connected the hot lead for my auxiliary back-up light. That way when I shift into reverse both the reverse indicator light and the
back-up lights come on. Second, I wanted to isolate the yellow button from everything else so I could use it for a horn button. So I cut the
gray/orange wire coming from the speedo to disable the rev limiter. Then I cut the purple wire and the gray w/white stripe wire coming from
the switch (yellow button) to isolate it. Between the purple and the gray w/white stripe wires I installed the diode, with power able to travel in
the direction of the gray/white wire. That completes the reverse rev limiter override, and now that it’s isolated, the yellow button can act as a
momentary “on” switch for whatever you want to hook up to it. To hook up a horn simply patch a wire from a switched power source (like the
cig lighter) to one of the cut yellow button wires (install an inline fuse if you wish). Then run a wire from the other cut yellow button wire to the
positive terminal on the horn, and another wire from the negative terminal on the horn to a ground. Beep Beep!

I’d like to add a note here about the mechanical aspects of all this “cutting” and “patching”. As tempting as the ease of using a “Scotch Lock”
type patching connector is, I personally would not trust anything like that in the harsh environment our machines often endure. The most
reliable electrical connection you can make is with solder. To patch another wire into a wire without cutting it, the best method I’ve found is
to cut enough of the wire fasteners and/or tubing necessary to get some slack in the wire you want to work on. Then grab it with a small
mechanic’s hook and pull it as far away as you can from everything around it. Then I take a small butane torch (mine’s a little bigger than a
cigarette lighter) and burn away the insulation at the point I’m holding the wire with the hook. Only about ¼” of the wire needs to be exposed.
Tin the exposed portion of the wire with some solder, then tin the end of the wire you want to patch into it. Now just touch them and the tip of
the soldering iron together and you have a solid, reliable electrical connection. I reinsulate the finished connection with liquid Plasti-Dip
applied with a Q-Tip. This seems to go on thicker and set up faster than the liquid electrical tape, which is about the same thing. After the
coating sets up resecure the wiring as possible. I’ll only mention the obvious danger of using fire around things that can melt or explode. Be
careful there’s nothing you don’t want damaged in the path of your flame.

For three headlight operation I’ve had a push-button switch patched between the hot wire for my low beams and the hot wire for my high
beams on four different Polaris machines with no problems, except for dirt and water occasionally fouling the switch. If you like you can just
patch a wire between the two hot leads so that no mater if your switch is in high or low, all three lights will come on. The addition of the
switch in this “patch” line just gives you the option of opening the connection so your handlebar switch can function normally. On most late
model but pre-’99 Polarises you can fiddle with the OEM light switch in-between its low and high detents and get all three lights to stay on,
but it’s not so easy on ’99 & up with the new switches. As I said, the addition of patch wire with an auxiliary switch will give you the option of
getting all three to light up, but last week I tried a new idea and so far it’s worked flawlessly. Instead of a switch patched between the two hot
leads I installed a diode. Actually, since I already had the switch there, on mine I just installed the diode between the two wires that go to the
switch and left the switch in place. If the diode should burn out on the trail then I can still use my switch as a back-up to light all three lights.
But after the diode worked so well on our “test” rides last weekend I really see no need for the switch. We had both our machines running
with all three lights on, low beams powered through the diode, for many periods of up to an hour both Friday and Saturday nights without the
slightest flicker or any other indication of malfunction. It was really nice to have only one switch to deal with for either the two low beams on
low or all three lights on high. All you need to do is install the diode between the yellow high beam hot lead wire at the back of the pod
headlight bulb and the green low beam hot lead that runs from the handlebar switch down to the low beams. The diode needs to be
installed with the current able to flow through it from the yellow wire to the green wire. In addition to the diode you’ll need about a foot of 18
gauge wire (min) for your “patch” lead. Once you get the wire’s insulation removed in the proper places you can easily test which direction
the diode needs to be installed by temporarily connecting it with alligator clips at each end (roach clips, for those of you in Rio Linda). This
differs from the auxiliary switch method in that you will no longer have the option to light just the pod high beam alone.

For those who are unaware, a diode acts like a check valve, or one-way valve, in an electrical circuit. Current is able to flow through it one
way but not the other. I bought the diodes I used from a place that rebuilds starters and alternators. Ask for one that is rated for 25-30 amps
at 12 volts. Their appearance may surprise you. Because they’re designed to be pressed into a fitting on an alternator they look a little like a
stick with a small cylinder on one end, or a tiny piston without the bearing collar on the crank end of the rod. The “stick” or “rod” is one
terminal of it, anywhere on the sides or top of the “piston” is the other. Tin a dab of solder anywhere on these two points to solder the wires
that will perform your “patch” between the hot leads. Once the diode is installed wrap the entire body of it with electrical tape to insulate it
from shorting to a ground.

Just a word of caution here. Because of the amount of additional current draw I suggest you not allow the machine to idle for an extended
period with all the lights on. I’ve made these modifications to more than one machine with success, but that doesn’t mean there won’t or
couldn’t be problems in the long run from doing them. This info is provided strictly on a “what I’ve done” basis. I’m not encouraging anyone
to do anything they may regret. That’s my disclaimer, so I hope you enjoy the mods as much as we do if you choose to do them. I’ll also try
to help by answering any questions there might be via personal email, as my time permits.

------------------
FloodRunner, on the Wisconsin River

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