I have been trying to Remove the nut at the base of the steering post and wonder how to get at the nut (it is hidden well by the frame). Has anyone done this job on a 1993 Trail Boss or a model that is similar? This is really tough. Any help from past experience is appreciated.

Does the job require a special wrench - ie polaeis tool?

The dealer wants $141 (2.7 Hours) to do the job which seems reasonable after looking at this thing last night.

 

I believe there is pin in the nut. AFter it's out it should come loose easily. You have to remove lots of stuff to get at it and to replace the bearing. Virtualy the entire machine needs to be stripped down. It's definitely a 6-pack job on a cold night.

Make sure you use a good quality aftermarket bearing, not the factory junk.

 

I got the thing removed. THe key is to use a punch and tap the nut (turn by hitting with punch) until it will turn by hand. The front end has to be disassembled. The parts are going to cost under $70.

Jack mentioned after market bearings. Are you talking about the plastic shims up top or the riveted shim on the bottom (shape of a thermostat gasket). The front end was good and tight so do I really need new bearings? Everthing is good excet the bent bars and shaft. Should I buy new rubber washers and o-rings for the bottom of the shaft?
How tight do you get the nut when assembling?

 

I have a 1991 Trailboss and I too had to remove the steering shaft last summer to straighten it. There is no way I would pay that amount to the dealer to do what you can easily do yourself.

It is true that a whole wack of crap has to removed from the ATV to get the shaft out. Basically all the plastic around the gas tank,and the oil reservoir and headlight have to come off. The lamp assy with the ignition switch and key has to come off. Plus if you are replacing the bars, all the parts and pieces attached there have to come off too. It is not a difficult job however it is time consuming. I don't recommend smashing the castle nut on the bottom of the steering shaft with a hammer & punch. This will most likely damage the nut and you may have problems getting a cotter pin back in upon re-assembly. I had an impact gun and spun that baby off easily. If you don't have an impact get a nice big combination wrench. You may find it awkard to work below the ATV so do what I did. Apply the lock on the brakes and stand the atv up on it's rear end, the rack easily will support it there. It is way easier to work on.

As far as bushings go, do you recall any movement is the steering shaft previous to your little accident? Was it sloppy feeling? I replaced the upper plastic steering shaft bushing and found a nice new tight feeling in regards to steering. The lower anchor bushing I also replacing this spring as I can pull op and down on the shaft vertically and feel movement. This lower bushing is riveted into place. There are really nice aluminum with bronze insert bushings available but run about 45.00 US funds. The stock ones don't seem to last very long.

Whewn re-tightening the anchor nut at the base snug it up really good and make sure the castle nut lines up with the hole in the shaft otherwise you will never get a new cotter pin back in. Be sure to peel back the excess cotter pin and
wrap it back around the oputside of the nut to be sure it won't fall out. You would loose all steering otherwise and that could be fatal.

Good luck, any more Q's feel free to ask or email me.

Keith

 

I got the steering post out last night. It really was not that hard after I got started. The bars and post are really toasted.
THe bottom bearing is in great shape as is the top bushings. I was told to replace the top bushings because they are so easy and inexpensive. The bars and the post will be in Friday. Total cost is @$70. I am amazed how cheap parts were!
The steering has alway been real tight so I do not think anything is bad except what was damaged in the crash.
Any particular torque required for the nut on the base of the steering post?
Thanks for the help Kieth