I had a blown seal and lost oil. Dealer fixed it and replaced break-in oil with regular oil. They said it would be fine. Wasn't even warmed up, let alone broken in (3/10 mile on it). Does anybody have any comment on this? I would think it comes with break-in oil for a reason...

 

all break in oil is is regular oil that was put in before you took it home. it should be synthetic.... in fact; the cleaner the oil is in the first fifty hours the better the machine will be broken in. there will be less wear on the bearings and cylinder walls. don't worry.

 

Northstar, I agree with you. If mine and all the other 700's out there had to have break-in oil, why would yours be "fine" without it??[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] OR....Maybe they all have regular oil and it's just a marketing scam to get everyone back to there local dealer after 20hrs. for oil & filter and possibly some accessories? Heck, at 20hrs. I still had to hold the dip-stick on an angle in bright light just to see the oil level,., clean as a pin!!{but I changed it just like it said}. I think if I were in your shoes, I would press for a free extended warranty just in case everything isn't as "fine" as they say it is![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]my pics

 

maybe i should have explained better. when your machine is delivered to the dealer it has no oil in it. they go to the shelf and put the very same oil that you buy in it. the reason it is called the break in period is so that the engine can flush the metal shavings and dirt out of the system. whether you change the oil in two hours or twenty, the break in oil serves the same purpose. if you want to be safe, change the oil in another twenty hours. that will give the motor time to get rid of all the metal and dirt. i would try to get the dealer to give you the first oil change to compensate for the oil draining out.

 

thanks for the response- I am sure my break-in oil is different than the regular oil. What I had on my dipstick even before the leak, and the stuff that poured out was bright green, in fact when my wife noticed it she thought it was antifreeze. It was definitely oil. I asked the dealer why it was green and they said it was how the break-in oil looks. I know that if it was antifreeze in the oil it would have mixed and looked milky instead of green. I think the flushing thing makes sense, I was just worried the regular oil might be a little heavier during break-in. I don't know enough about ATVs myself, so I have to rely on what the dealer tells me, and I have a hard time believing them because they don't even want to talk to you unless you're buying something.
I think the bright green may be a built in indicator for warranty purposes, so they know later on if it had ever been changed. Just an idea.
Also, I did try to beat them up for an extended warranty, to the point of almost walking out without my new machine. The best they would do is give me the extended warranty at their cost of over $400 for only 3 years. I couldn't afford it, but they told me that because they had done the engine work, it is warranteed forever as long as the problem is directly related to what they were fixing. So, if I ever have engine problems and it relates to oil, I am getting a new motor or I am suing them. The cost of a motor is about 40% more than them retaining counsel to appear in court to defend themselves, so hopefully I would make out all right.
thanks again, I feel better now.

 

If the recommended oil for the 700 is the same as for the 500 it is synthetic (after break-in). I believe what would be in there as "break-in" oil would be non-synthetic. Synthetic oil does not allow an engine to properly break-in, hence the different oil used during break-in. I don't know anything about it being green, but I would assume your dealer has enough on the ball to have put in non-synthetic until your machine has at least 10 hours on it. You may want to ask him that.

 

how did you blow a seal in only 3/10th's of a mile?

 

defective block casting. flashing blocked an oil passage and caused pressure to blow crank seal. Dealer replaced crank seal and it immediately blew again. They called Polaris and learned it was the third one and how to fix it. Now I just noticed my antifreeze is very low with only 29 miles on it. No leaks on the floor. I thought I parked it with a little gas in it too. If this thing develops one more problem it is going back and they had better give me a full refund and the 500 HO I should have bought in the first place.

 

<< maybe i should have explained better. when your machine is delivered to the dealer it has no oil in it >>

are you 100% sure? I will explain in a second.......





<< I am sure my break-in oil is different than the regular oil. What I had on my dipstick even before the leak, and the stuff that poured out was bright green >>

To kind of put those two quotes together and the reson I ask is, that I know Ford puts a dye in there oil at the factory. The dye shows up under a black light when the vehicles are checked for leaks at the assembly plant. Maybe ATV manufactures do the same thing? The oil in the new fords has a green/yellow tint to it also. Other than that I think Polaris recommends their own 0w-40 oil in all their quads. I personally have been running Valvoline 5w30 Dura-Blend in my TrailBoss since the first 10hr service I did on it.

 

When I bought my 2000 Magnum 325, it was uncrated, and I watched them put Polaris Synthetic 0w-40 in. When I bought my 1998 Honda, they did the same but with the Honda oil that they sold. This may not have been the right thing to do, but I never had a problem with either. After break in time (20 hours), I changed it again. Then I changed them every 100 hours.