Just a kwik question, I got to ride in the snow this weekend (GREAT FUN), When I was puting the bike back in the garage I Notice grease residue on my right shock.
Upon further inspection my CV BOOT is riped I do not know when or why this happened.
The Bike has not been riden much (Bought new in September 01). From what I can see there is no dirt in the joint so I think I can get away with a boot kit I seen that MOOSE Utility and EPI erlandson makes a CV BOOT kit.
Does anybody have any experience with these kits
I notice that EPI called there boot a SPLIT-BOOT. (THIS IS NOT LIKE THE AUTOMOTIVE STYLE QUIK BOOT IS IT????)IF SO I WILL GET THE MOOSE. (HOW BIG OF A JOB IS THIS)

Secondly I was thinking of getting some CV boot guards to replace the OE plastic units.
I am looking at the (Moose Aluminum DIAMOND PLATE units or the OXLITE steel BRUSH GUARDS.

ANY SUGESTIONS???

 

I would stay away from any split boot designs. If it were mine, I would take it off the bike (not too hard of a job), dissassemble it, clean it, put it back together with the proper grease. Go to www.gorilla-axle.com, as they manufacture a more durable boot that is almost twice as thick and puncture resistant as the stocker. They carry these boots for almost all ATV's. You can read more on them at the above-mentioned website.

Waylan

 

Yes I agree I would stay away from A SPLIT BOOT design. I guess I am asking is the EPI boot split? In the Picture it does not look split?

 

Ice can tear up a boot with no problem,
The first time changing a boot can be a pain,but after the first one its easy.I think the clamp was the biggest problem for me ,but now its no problem.
Do a search in the polaris forum for "cv boot" and you'll get around 10 returns

 

I changed my boots about a month ago and might offer a few suggestions: First of all, to get at it, all you have to do is remove the brake calipers and the two bolts that attach the lower A-arms to the frame. You don't really have to loosen the strut clamp or any of that. The driveshaft is held in the CV joint by a "C" clip that will compress if you apply pressure to it. Just give it a sharp yank and the shaft will come out of the joint.

The clamps that hold the boot on can be a problem. You have to use the special CV clamps because hose clamps or even zip ties will hit the strut housing the first time they rotate. These special clamps really need pliers made for the purpose to close them correctly, and the pliers aren't expensive. But you can make something from a modified pair of needle nose pliers if you have to. Get a few extra clamps too, mine were a little too tight and I broke a few trying to get them on.

Be sure to grease the joint well while you have it apart. ANd don't let it turn too far in its cage or the ***** will fall out. They are easy to put back in but be sure they are all in place before you put the boot on.

Once you have the new boots on, spray some rubber protectant on them periodically. They often crack from drying out as much as from getting torn.

And while you are replacing them, think about those guys who have the new machines with independent suspension front and rear, who have 8 boots instead of our 2!

 

Thanks for the help

I was looking at my factory warranty period and this thing is still under the 6 month warranty

I got the bike NEW out of the box in September of 2001 for $3800.00

I am going to see if it is covered.

If not I will replace it myself With the moose unit

I was thinking about taking it in for a lookover before the warranty runs out anyway.

thanks again.