How do you tune a cvt to an engines peak power rpm. My sport will move,but is weak for the most part. Out of the hole I cannot keep the front end down,even by leaning way over the bars,no exaggeration here.About 100ft out of the hole it is like the power turns off,I'm still acclerating,but like a 3 legged dog. The top speed is fast,eyewatering, but it takes a while to get there.By the way, what is the screw in the side of the 42mm hsp carb for, it sure does not affect idle speed?

RCR STAGE 1(TOPEND)
+
HPD AGGR. CLUTCHKIT
+
V FORCE DELTA 2 REED CAGE
+
42MM HSP CARB= ONE SLOW SPORT 400L

 

What exactly do you consider "eyewatering"?? Let me know and we'll talk. Did you change anything in the secondary clutch, or just the primary?

 

biggin,

More than likely it's the secondary clutch causing the problems. From your posts, you describe the machine wheeling like crazy, so it's not the primary clutch. There could be one of two thing wrong with the secondary. Either the spring isn't set in the proper position (I have my violet spring in the 2/2 position on a Aaen roller), or the buttons are worn out. I'm leaning towards the latter. How is the back shift? Does it seem to "bog" quite a bit after letting off the throttle at speed and then nailing it again? If so, it might be the buttons or a scored helix.

The big screw on the clutch side is the idle screw, the smaller one (you will have to look for it) is the air fuel mix for the idle circut. This is off of a 38mm TMX (the 42mm is a taperbored 38mm). It never much affected the idle speed on mine either, but if you change pilot jets, you'll see a marked improvement.

 

As far as the top speed is concerned, I don't know what it is.It is a liitle faster than stock 650prarie.Mike, the helix is a month old from hpd aggr clutch kit. A "bog" at speed would not describe the whats happens when the throttle is nailed.It is more like(to my inexperienced mind anyway)riding a manual quad and slipping the clutch to keep the revs up.In other words lots of revving,with a minimum acceleration. I have a red and yellow primary with 58g wieghts.The secondary is violet with it in the 2-2 positions. The buttons look clean and new on 1 side and they have the appearance on the other side that looks like a block of cheese taken to the cheese grater.( bad analogy, but is describes the grooves!) The old helix had corresponding marks on it.I winded up the secondary 1/4 turn before I installed the snap ring.

PILOT JETS, WHAT ARE THEY,WHER ARE THEY,AND THEIR FUNCTION.
Sorry for being polaris ignorant,but I am learning

 

Your buttons only make contact with the helix on one side . If they
are wore its not shifting well and the slipping is your belt burning
away .

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img] Hey Biggin, sounds like your not matched well with your setup. You need to check with Rick Ritter and find out what rpm's his pipe runs at. The aggressive clutch kit might not let it reach the full rpm it needs to.They accelerate hard in the beggining, but you need good power to keep it going, because it will pull a motor down when it shifts out. The aggressive kit you have should be good for running 6700-6800 rpm's, but I would recommend that with a trail port job and a little more compression.The only thing you might can do is go down a hair on the weights to a 10-56 or maybe move up to the Polaris red spring. If you had a tach (which you really need for tuning) you could get it right on. The carb you have is probably too big also. A 38 or 39mm seems to be the hot setup unless your all out race mod. By the way, I strictly port Polaris cylinders and can get you 8-10hp for $110.00. Check me out on E-bay. Bubba

 

The bidding starts at $1.00,not bad!Just joking.I am unable to sink anymore money in my quad now, but 9hp does not sound to bad for $110.I replacied the buttons and it stilljust does not feel right. I do have an orange primary around and the stock 55 wieghts.I guess some more tinkering should help.The orange is not as long as the red/yellow, but it does have alot more stiffness.