Have a couple of questions The front hubs are not disengaging when I turn the button on the handle bars off, some times they do and other time they don't.The reason I'm assuming this is that when I drive on the pavement the machine pulls to the right or left. I can back up and that seems to disengage them. Fill me in on whats happening, did I torque the crown nut on the front hub to tight-105 foot lbs?
Does anyone have a Sportsman 500 that has a little ticking sound coming from the motor when up and running? my machine makes this sound and I'm not sure if its something or is it normal. The machine has 350 miles on it and otherwise runs great. I have not taken it to the dealer for a check up since I bought it, is it necessary?
Anybody have oil filter #'s for NAPA or other high quality oil filter for a Sportsman 500 2001?
Thanks in advance for the help.

 

There are a few things to check with the hubs. What fluid did you use, have you changed it, etc. Since your post eludes to doing some work on the front did you get the shop manual to get everything back in place and torqued? Do some searches on the this forum and you will find a ton of advise.

Yes, mine and a lot of others make a ticking noise when running hot at low idle. To me it sounds like it is up by the cam. A lot of them do it and I don't think anyone has had a problem. The engine seems pretty much bullet proof. The water pump(s) seem to be another story.

As far as oil filters, I did a search and found this The NAPA is #1358 made by WIX. If you actually find one marked WIX, it will be #51358. For some reason I see a NAPA #1356 also listed in some posts. I bought a NAPA filter and kept the box for the P/N but it is a home. I don't want to start a mess here but I would not use the FRAM filter. Just a real cheap design and for $5 or less difference in cost, I don't feel it is worth it for how often I change oil.

 

Thanks for the reply, I torqued everything per the shop manual and used only Polaris lubricants. A dealer suggested easing up the torque to 80 ft. lbs. and see if that helps. the dealer also stated that most of the motors make a ticking sound and it means nothing and no recalls have been issued for the motor.Gotta go away for a few days on buisness so I will do the mods when I get back.
Thanks, Glenn
p.s. I purchased the NAPA filters

 

I'm thinking you should be using 80 inch pounds, not foot pounds?

 

You are right,Guess I should pay more attn. I bought the torque wrench at Sears and it is labeled foot pounds. Where can I purchase a inch pounds wrench or is there a conversion from inch pounds to foot pounds so I don't have to purchase a new torque wrench.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

I belive 80 inch pounds is 6.6 foot pounds. I think you will have to buy or borrow a torque wrench.

 

did you already torque it to 80 foot lbs? If so you may have bent some of the pressure plates or bearing races in there. If so have a dealer take a look and see if there is any damage.

 

ft lbs. X 12 = inch lbs.
inch lbs X .0833 = ft. lbs.
ft lbs. X 1.356 = Nm

 

I torqued it to 104 ft lbs. I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I destroyed. Hopefully just the bearings need to be replaced.What are the pressure plates you talk of?

 

Here is a link to the Polaris parts manuals to see what components go where.

Polaris Parts Manuals

First I recommend an appropriate shop manual for your quad. – Follow those instructions.

Second - these are only my notes and comments - follow the appropriete shop manual directions.

A few tips in removing and reinstalling the front hubs - Put jack stands under the front struts to hold the bike up . Have the weight of the bike on the jack stands under the struts. Without doing this when you remove the axle nut you could over extend the struts and pull the axle CV joint apart. Usually followed by numerous expletives and a trip to the shop to purchase a new CV boot ring because after two hours of unsuccessful attempts to blindly correct the problem inside the boot you succumb to taking it apart to re-assemble the CV joint.

Next - zero sand\contaminants are allowed in the hub\clutch\bearings. A parts washer and pressurized air to blow everything off is highly recommended. A $39 parts washer can save hundreds. I blow WD40 through the strut and inside bearings liberally and then air blow the axle / strut area as best that can be done.

Make sure the armature plate is not bent – even a little bit, and when reassembling ensure that the armature plate is flat against the coil and flat against the roll cage with the tabs correctly engaged in the roll cage. Flat means that the plate comes in contact with both the outer and inner coil lips – as checked at 120 degree angles around the coil. Not having the armature plate in the correct place is the area most of us mess up and we damage both the armature plate and the magnet coil gap when we torque the axle nut which makes the clutches either not release or not engage for 4WD – there go providing the opportunity to do it all over again. Not having the correct coil gap prevents the energized coil from tightly "grabing" the armature plate slotted to the the roll cage and it not receiving enough resistance to torque around the cam and extend the roll pins – which is the goal to engage the hub to the axle.

Oh – keep in mind that you will have to lift the rear of the bike to facilitate rotating the drive train to assist in properly seating the front axle inner bearings into position.

Proper torque of the axel nut is required – first to 100 inch pounds, then back off and re-torque to 75 + whatever it takes to get to the nearest hole for the cotter pin.

Don’t forget to add fluid. Ford ATF or Polaris Hub Oil.