I can see where this is going to get expensive.

I just put on the RcR stage 1 kit, and it's great. I still want more speed. I want to feel like my arms are going to come out of the shoulder sockets when I hit the gas. So, what is the next logical step?

Carb? Mikuni flatslide or TMX? what are the advantages of flatslide vs roundslide? Which carb can I put on without too much airbox mod? How big should I go?

Clutch? - roller.

Reed spacer and reeds to go with the carb?

I also want better cornering - I am probably going to go to aluminum rims with holeshot XTCs,
20 inchers in the back and 21 inchers in the front. Any tire/wheel advice?

Help me prioritize my list. If there is something I should consider that I have not mentioned (porting/piston/head/etc) that would make more sense, let me know.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

I have a 99 scrambler also i put a carb on or my dealer did they also put a pipe on and silencer and clutch kit.
Now its a rocket but my next step is reeds but dont for get the pipe it seemed to make the biggest difference.
Im from omaha is there many good places to ride over in your area.

 

Hi Jay,

The RcR kit includes a pipe and heavier drive clutch spring as well as silencer, and larger jets, and an airbox mod. What kind/size of carb did you have put on? For that matter, what pipe, etc?

There are some places to ride, (not enough) some of them legal, others not so legal. How aobut in the Omaha area?

 

Go with a new carb. The 38TMX ($220)would probably be the best choice for you, but I'm not sure of it's compatability with OEM air box's. I scrapped mine when I went to it, and used a K&N ($28) filtercharger.

I'd do the reeds at the same time as the carb, if you can. Boyesen or Delta Force ($150) both work well, and are equally priced. I went with the V-Force mostly because it was easier to get.

Neither of these (carb/reeds)necessitate a cluth change. I would'nt goto a roller untill you are you at least do the carb/reeds.

Porting is a huge step and is where you will notice the biggest power gain. There's alot to it. Depending on who does it for you, the stage you want, which head you use (I.E. stock re-worked or billet w/ girdle kit), forged piston kit, new gasket kit, you'll have to remove your oil injector, and the added fuel costs, could cost you $350-650.

The tire's will make the quad look a hell of a lot faster, and improve some handling characteristics. The terrain you ride most should dictate the size/brand/style you need. I use Holeshot XC's on Douglas .190. This is one of the most important and expensive decisions with an good set of tires running $350-425. The XCT's you want are good but don't come in a 20" rear (22" only).

Handlebars should'nt be over looked either! With the right fit bar you'll be more comfortable.

Going straight to a full modded motor, without making inprovements to handling, braking, suspension, or clutching along the way is pointless. Just don't get fixated on trying to make high HP, thinking it equals high speed.

 

Thanks, Jerry.

Just the kind of info I was looking for. Good point about the handlebars. Awhile back I rolled the quad and bent the stockers, I went for the Renthal aluminum bars, (400ex bend). They make a BIG difference in steering. My wrists don't hurt nearly as much after a hard ride.

Thanks again!