Thanks to SufferSam and Bubba for the "education". (Obviously I needed it!) [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

The main headlight on my 250 Trailboss is poor at best. Hence, I tried driving without that headlight on and find that the new driving lights are better than the original light. They provide a wider field of view and, if properly adjusted brighter lightup the roadway far better than the original equipment.

Before I stick a lot of extra money into rewinding the stator, I will consider replacing the machine.
I'd like a 4 cycle (quieter) machine anyway. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Thanks again for the quidance.

Dave

 

It is also important to reason between constant and momentary loads. A brake-light is a momentary load, while a headlight (at night)is a constant load. You can "overload" momentarilly a system, but don't do it continually, or there will be problems. Like Bubba said Ricky Stator is a great place to get a replacement, or an upgrade. Great service, and products.


Ken

 

I put some lights on my trailboss I aim one alittle to the left the other alittle to the right and my stock light hits the middle they light uop the trail at night great check out picstrailboss pics

 

Hey guys - quick question. I am installing some small 55W fogs on my 99 Xplorer. I'd like to allow these lights to come on only when the key is on so I don't forget to shut them off or have some dummy turn 'em on while the unit is parked in the woods somewhere. Anybody know how to tap into this circuit. I will use a relay and lighted switch. My '98 had an easily accessible switchbox under the hood, but this '99 has replaced this with an all-in-one wire harness it appears. Could the taillight provide me with the circuit?

 

Sure, you could use almost any keyed power wire if you are using a relay. Since the light power will be coming from a main power source, the relay switch wire doesnt draw much at all. Bubba

 

There's a red/white wire that is energized when the ignition switch is turned on. This wire feeds the line side of the headlamp switch, the start button, the tail light, the brake switch and light, the DC outlet plug, the fan switch, etc. You can use it as your "switch wire" on your relay.

SurferSam

 

Thanks Guys!
Follow up questions...
SurferSam
Where can I locate this red/white wire? Is there a connection point in either the front hood area (above the oil tank) or in the headlight pod?

Bubba, does this make sense for wiring:

Direct wire from battery POS to Relay (Pwr)
Direct wire from battery NEG to Relay (Ground)
Wires to lamps from Relay (Load)
wire from above-mentioned red/white wire to Switch
Wire from Switch to relay (switch)
Ground wire to switch

Also, Bubba I saw your ebay porting service. Do you happen to shave heads (.01/.02) for added compression, more power. I hear this is a good thing to do especially at Colorado altitude where the air is thinner.

 

Dave, at a quick read, the wiring looks right to me. The negative wire just completes the ground for the relay to close, so you dont need it connected to the battery. I make a small loop wire and ground it with the screw that I fasten the relay with. Just make sure you screw it into metal [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]. That's me on e-bay as well. I only do port work. I have all the necessary equipment for that. Years ago I ported car cylinder heads (street&race), so that's what I'm set up for. The hight altitude stuff runs about a point more compression than lower altitude. A trail port job with a small increase in compression will really wake that thing up. Bubba

 

You should be able to locate the red/white wire under the headlight pod or the hood area. If you are going to mount your relay near your battery, intercept the wire near the tail light since you are using the red/white as a switching wire anyway.

SurferSam