2003 Sportsman 500 H.O.
#11
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Farmr123,
I'm not saying you're wrong...........it just has me wondering. I haven't read anything about improved snorkeling. I think what has probably happened is what I wrote in my last reply...........they're using up old stock. I didn't actually look at the manufacture date on this one either. Let me know if you do see one that is improved. Thanks,
Waylan
I'm not saying you're wrong...........it just has me wondering. I haven't read anything about improved snorkeling. I think what has probably happened is what I wrote in my last reply...........they're using up old stock. I didn't actually look at the manufacture date on this one either. Let me know if you do see one that is improved. Thanks,
Waylan
#13
#14
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Walexa, how has your bike held up so far, reliability-wise?
I have left my '99 Xplorer stock, except for a Uni filter, Wiseco piston, & a few little parts & have had very few problems in 7200 miles. The biggest repeat offender I have had were the front CV joint boots.
I can only begin to imaginge the extra stress caused by your lift, oversized tires, etc.
I have left my '99 Xplorer stock, except for a Uni filter, Wiseco piston, & a few little parts & have had very few problems in 7200 miles. The biggest repeat offender I have had were the front CV joint boots.
I can only begin to imaginge the extra stress caused by your lift, oversized tires, etc.
#15
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I thought the PVT has two vents on it???...one that you can see on the left side, and one on the inner side of the PVT case.
O ya, and the 2003's also have a drain on the PVT incase you "accidently" get water in it. I dunno if that was mentioned yet. Also, the oil dipstick and fill location is relocated to an easier to reach location.
O ya, and the 2003's also have a drain on the PVT incase you "accidently" get water in it. I dunno if that was mentioned yet. Also, the oil dipstick and fill location is relocated to an easier to reach location.
#16
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Farmr123,
The front driveline is put together by Gorilla Axle, here in Monroe, LA. I broke an upper cv joint and a lower cv joint, both on the left side. The lower was rebuilt with their latest run of internal parts (mainly the cage). The breakage of the upper was most likely due to taking the joints off the shaft so many times at the beginning when we were trying to get everything to fit right. They were having to use a hammer to knock the joints off and on, and the blows of the hammer most likely cracked the cage in that upper joint. Anyway, I have had no problems since then. The upper joints are for a mazda 626, with a 22-spline female coupling welded to it, so they should be pretty stout.
I am currently working on my bike at this time, and it is in pieces. My transmission cracked last winter (this was before any of the lift). Mud was always packing between the sprocket and the sprocket protector, so I removed the sprocket protector because of no rock where we ride. The chain was a little loose, derailed, wadded up on the front sprocket, and cracked the tranny right hand case. I had taken the tranny out and had that side welded up, but it always leaked very slowly. Polaris redesigned the rh case and added a true chain guide, so I purchased the updated design case half. I quit riding early summer, and took everything back apart. What I'm trying to do is lower the gearing to the front end. I won a front gearbox off a magnum 500 because it is a 10/37 ratio versus a 14/29. This is way too low on it's own, so I decided to speed up the output shaft going to the front gearbox. Inside the tranny, the pinion to the ring gear to the output shaft going up front is driven by a jack shaft setup. The primary shaft that drives the sprocket that drives the rear wheels has another sprocket on it inside the transmission. This sprocket is 520, 16 tooth, 26 inside splined. It drives a sprocket on the above mentioned pinion shaft, which is a 520, 14 tooth, 22 inside splined. I ran the numbers, and a 16 driving an 11 would be an acceptable ratio. The problem is making the chain the right length. A 16 driving an 11 has way too much slack to run the stock chain, so I got another chain and cut it one link shorter............too short now. So, I got some off brand chain that I could get half links for, and it is still too long. I thought about running it that way, but I believe it will be too much wear on the sprockets, especially the 11. Now, I'm trying to see if sidewinder (even though I don't like thier products) can make me up the swap........14t, 26s and 16t, 22s set. I'm still not sure if the 16 will completely clear the case, but I will see when I get a response back from them.
Farmr.......I'm sure you could have written all this to where a 8 year old could comprehend it, that's why I'm sure after you've read through it about 4 times you'll understand what I've written. I've got alot more info there than what you asked for, but I'm open to ideas. I thought about taking the 2 sprockets to a machine shop and having them machine and weld to make the swap, but was afraid of weld breakage or the heat actually weakening the sprockets.
Waylan
The front driveline is put together by Gorilla Axle, here in Monroe, LA. I broke an upper cv joint and a lower cv joint, both on the left side. The lower was rebuilt with their latest run of internal parts (mainly the cage). The breakage of the upper was most likely due to taking the joints off the shaft so many times at the beginning when we were trying to get everything to fit right. They were having to use a hammer to knock the joints off and on, and the blows of the hammer most likely cracked the cage in that upper joint. Anyway, I have had no problems since then. The upper joints are for a mazda 626, with a 22-spline female coupling welded to it, so they should be pretty stout.
I am currently working on my bike at this time, and it is in pieces. My transmission cracked last winter (this was before any of the lift). Mud was always packing between the sprocket and the sprocket protector, so I removed the sprocket protector because of no rock where we ride. The chain was a little loose, derailed, wadded up on the front sprocket, and cracked the tranny right hand case. I had taken the tranny out and had that side welded up, but it always leaked very slowly. Polaris redesigned the rh case and added a true chain guide, so I purchased the updated design case half. I quit riding early summer, and took everything back apart. What I'm trying to do is lower the gearing to the front end. I won a front gearbox off a magnum 500 because it is a 10/37 ratio versus a 14/29. This is way too low on it's own, so I decided to speed up the output shaft going to the front gearbox. Inside the tranny, the pinion to the ring gear to the output shaft going up front is driven by a jack shaft setup. The primary shaft that drives the sprocket that drives the rear wheels has another sprocket on it inside the transmission. This sprocket is 520, 16 tooth, 26 inside splined. It drives a sprocket on the above mentioned pinion shaft, which is a 520, 14 tooth, 22 inside splined. I ran the numbers, and a 16 driving an 11 would be an acceptable ratio. The problem is making the chain the right length. A 16 driving an 11 has way too much slack to run the stock chain, so I got another chain and cut it one link shorter............too short now. So, I got some off brand chain that I could get half links for, and it is still too long. I thought about running it that way, but I believe it will be too much wear on the sprockets, especially the 11. Now, I'm trying to see if sidewinder (even though I don't like thier products) can make me up the swap........14t, 26s and 16t, 22s set. I'm still not sure if the 16 will completely clear the case, but I will see when I get a response back from them.
Farmr.......I'm sure you could have written all this to where a 8 year old could comprehend it, that's why I'm sure after you've read through it about 4 times you'll understand what I've written. I've got alot more info there than what you asked for, but I'm open to ideas. I thought about taking the 2 sprockets to a machine shop and having them machine and weld to make the swap, but was afraid of weld breakage or the heat actually weakening the sprockets.
Waylan
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