the only engine mod i see to add is advance timing 2 degree while running on 92 octane gas,the reed spacer will add bottom end only,any clutch changes properly will work with that setup...

 

Check out the reply I just did on a tach for a 500 for info on what will and won't work auto tach wise.

I agree w/bubba on the clutching issue, so long as its within the limits of control and tractability. To high an engagement may both @#$%^ up touch, and screw up the enjoyment of the machine for those non race days. but I do think you need to find out, as you are likely able to go that way and may find power to be had there. Now, many have learned that power and usable power aren't then same thing, but PVT tends to soften hits a bit, so I think you should get into the tach thing further.

Bubba and I would disagree a bit on how much seconday spring to use, as I fear the PVT's are ineffecient and am always afraid to loose Hp to parasitic looses of a too heavy a secondary spring. I tend to think about helix's then move into the primary to tune shift rates and engagement. But bubba's done way more polaris stuff then I too, so...

Getting a bit farther into suspension, I know I HATED the way my 'she handled in the woods. It was to slow to turn, pushed the fronts a bit, and wouldn't carve a flat tracked style corner smooth. All in a the stock 'she suspension is a cluster @$#%.

Anyway, I fixed the fronts by dumping the a-arms and going to wider and longer a-arms. Now, I HATE the wider part for the woods, but I minimized it some by getting negative reverse rims. Anyway, as result I set both my camber and my caster to 4.5 degrees. See the banshee's caster was about 11 degrees. Great for straight line, but a bastard to turn. As reference the 86-86 250'r are 6 degree and the 88-89 r's are 4 degree. And the r's are praised for their handlinr right? Every wonder why? This a a big part. Anyway, the longer arms also effectively moved my weight back in the wheel base.

Then I put progressive spring Ohlins up front and had the rear rebuilt, revalved and re-sprung to my weight. Its now VERY good in the tight woods. Not AS good as an r, after all its still heavy, but MUCH closer. Then when it opens up a bit...

Anyway, once you get enough power, its all getting it onto the ground and getting it to turn. Hell, how may races do you watch when they focus power. few right? Its "he's not turning in smooth and can't get a run outa turn 3"! OR "What a great line he can hold!" And being able to turn inside somebody and get into the power earlier in a race is big.

So, all that said, a real firm rear shock don't mean shoot. Talk to a suspension shop. I prefer pro-action. find them in the back of MX mags. They are a shock franchise, so do ask for the HQ number. They're based on the east coast I think.

Then check into your front settings. Know what your camber and castor are. If not close to 5 degree pos for both, lap time is laying on the table. I just assume you've got the toe-in spot on. Next time out think about what the front is doing as you try to turn, You want to carve clean turn smooth, and be able to get into the power early. Most quads will roll over onto the outer tire (too soft a front and to stiff a read spring rate) and then push at least on the outer tire... (That's part of why the positive camber works, as IF the quad rolls the outer tire it rolls it onto more tire.

I know this is a ton to get into, but suspension tuning is kinda tough to talk about, and as is true in most things, I only know a little about it.

luck.

dan

 

Another thought:

If these courses are so tight and small, why protect the top speed? I'd think gearing it down a bit would be of real value. I want to be fully shifted out and wound out only at the end of the longest straight, and even then only it it was of typical lenght, otherwise I'd likely gear a bit lower still and accept 30 yards run tapped out whilst out pulling eveybody everywhere else.

 

Well, thanks for all the input from everyone so i'm going to do the following for right now:1. install a reed cage spacer, 38mm carb, install a Heel Clicker Primary system ( use the 400 scrambler version with yellow race spring), secondary clutch put the stock spring in and put the spring settings at 1 and 1, install a tach and take the teeth off the flywheel. I'll let everyone know in about 1 1/2 weeks how it's doing.
thanks
hunt