I plan on putting on an HPD aggressive clutch kit on my scrammy. I have heard that clutch kits will destroy the stock plastic buttons. I plan on replacing those with HPD superduty buttons. How hard is it to replace the buttons. What all is involved? Do I need a clutch puller to put the clutch kit and buttons on? Thanks

 

You will need a good set of sockets and wrenches.A buddy comes in handy to rotate and lock the secondary snap ring.Watch out for the spring tension in the primary when you remove it.Same for the secondary when you remov ethe snap ring,it'll turn and jump if you are not ready.Be careful b/c you are dealing with aluminium,so be as delicate as possible.The buttons are a cinch to remove and install,I do not recall if a screwdriver or starbit removes them.Be patient and precise.Hpd should come w/good directions,if not give'em call.

 

So I dont need to remove the primary clutch? I just got a new set of Craftsman sockets for X-mas and I can rent a set of snap ring pliers from Autozone. So I dont need the primary or secondary clutch pullers? Where does the helix go?

 

Lot's of times, the secondary will just slip off. Once you have it off, take a VERY thin film (just a smear) of anti-sieze and wipe it on the trans shaft...all you want left is basically a residue. That'll help it come off easier next time. To install the buttons, you will need to mill the angled re-inforcements for three torx head retaining screws. If you're planing on future mods, and can afford it, I would suggest getting the new Team Industries secondary (HPD also sells these). Like Biggin said, be careful of the secondary spring. With a permanent marker you can mark the location of the helix to the clutch half (before compressing it to get the snap-ring off). A budget stabilizing trick is to lay a roll of masking tape on the floor, rest the rounded cone of the clutch in the hole of the tape roll. Using your one hand hold the two sheaves (they will begin turning as you let up on the helix) Use your knee in the helix, compress it far enough to remove the snap-ring, then slowly let up on the helix, while controlling the spin of the clutch sheaves (halves)


Ken

 

Do I have to have to remove the primary to do this or can it be done on the quad with a helpful friend. I would like to get the roller secondary but I really cant afford it. I dont plan on doing anything else besides the HPD PowerMaxx pipe/silencer. 4 strokes are too expensive to make them go fast. HPD says that their super duty buttons are nearly indestructable. So are the buttons connected to the secondary, or where are they? So the buttons are pretty ease to remove and install? I tried looking in my service manual but it sucks at explaining how to remove stuff and what you have to take off to get it and even where these things are located. That is why I like to ask you guys because you have done it and can give me are the little secrets to making it easier. I heard that Rick Ritter sell HPD parts. Is this true. Would it be better for me to get the HPD pipe and have rick put a clutch kit together for me? Thanks-Jason

 

Yes Rick sells HPD products,the buttons are in the secondary clutch.If you order the super sport buttons it will come with a very good instruction sheet.The primary does not have to be removed,when you receive your clutch kit,the only thing done to the primary is weights and the primary spring.You remove the six bolts holding the plate on,then you remove the main bolt running thru the middle (note the x on the outside plate needs to be aligned with the x on the inside when you reinstall the plate.Hope this helps a little.

 

It helps alot. I appreciate the input from all of you. I am starting to understand how this clutch setup works now. I think that I could do it with a little help. BTW, about how long does it take to do the kit and buttons
Thanks-Jason

 

It's not too bad of a project. The pipe and clutch kit are the best ways to wake up HP. Just be sure to take your time. Never be afraid to ask what you might think is the simplest of questions, everyone's been there.

Ken

 

A GOOD snap ring tool is critical for any tighter secondary spring replacement. I went through two tools before I found one that would hold the snap-ring open long enough to get it back on. It is definately a 2-person job if the new secondary is a tight one (like an Aaen Blue).

Skip the plier type snap ring tool's unless they have beefed up prongs - mine just bent over trying to get the ring to open wide enough. I got a Craftsman screwdrive snap-ring tool and had to modify it to work. (Modification was to deepen the grrove that the prongs set in).

Again - the snap-ring is the hardest part due to the tool needs and the facvt that you need to rotate the sheeve before reinstalling the snap-ring.

Send me a PM if you want to discuss this live...