400 Carb Question
#23
The resistor plugs were designed for static control in vehicles years ago to keep radio noise down, and also to keep interference down around airports and blasting areas. It doesnt matter which one you run. I do prefer the 8 over a 9 and like CED was saying, the B8ES or b8RES are much cheaper.Bubba
#24
Thanks for the input Elroy. 15 does seem pretty low! Bubba I am following you with the ETC stuff. But I don't really understand how It works. I can understand unhooking It, but do I remove anything from It? How does this give more throttle range? Ok, since we are on the subject of plugs...what are the benefits of projector tip plugs? I know they are supposed to advance the timing and something else, but does anybody use them? If I go back to an 8 plug, Is a s plug better than a v plug besides the price? Thanks!
#25
Darnet, thank you. I couldnt think of the word ETC to save my life. It doesnt have a thing to do with cable travel, it could just be something else to get in the way and cause problems. People that mod their machines tend to take better care of them and keep more of a watchful eye on them, so you shouldnt have a cable sticking on you. With trying to get full range on it, I would think it would be nice not having to worry about it. Simplicity is always better. The s design plug is the original and cheapest, and if it's holding up good to my high compression alky bike, I figure it will work great. Even purging the alky system and running extremely rich with race gas I have not fouled an 8 plug yet.Bubba
#26
Oh ,OK I see what you are saying now, sorry It took so long to understand. Yeh, I can attest that I take much more care of my bike now that It is modded. Heck you have to. It is hard for me to see how a throttle would stick unless you just had it adjusted all out of wack or It was just rusted or something, but I see your point now. If I go back to an 8 plug that shouldn't change my jetting any should It?? Thanks for all the helpful info.
#27
No, a plug change wont affect anything. I deeply respect Olav Aaen and his accomplishments with the work on snowmobiles for the past almost 40 years. I just think that some of his thinking and products for the ATV's isnt the quality of the snow units. But in time respects, he was dealing with the snowmobiles years before the ATV's were ever thought of. I like the top end pipe. I am running the stock carb with a trail port job, machined head, .020 overbore, and super stock reeds. It is all the trail bike I could ever want. kepp a real good watchful eye out for either a 38 TM mikuni (not a TMX) or a Keihin 39pwk. I think one of those would make you feel a whole lot better about jetting.Bubba
#29
Hey Bubba, thought this thread finally died huh? LOL I got to work on my 400 a little bit this week-end and wanted to update. Ok, first off, done away with the ETC stuff (unplugged It). Had a broke wire I wasn't aware of anyway. Got my throttle cable adjusted enough to get the slide to raise all the way. Changed back to 25% racing gas, attempted to adjust clutch with new clutch alignment bar I got from Hot Seat Performance, but they sent the wrong one (too big) Oh well sent it back try again later. Sprayed WD-40 everywhere couldn't find any airleaks, but It looks like I have a leak around the front of the motor (exhaust side). Sprayed It and no change, so must just be exhaust leak?? Had black sutty appearance. Anyway, now that I changed the gas I am real lean from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Went to 30 pilot 1.5 turns out to start and two steps richer on needle. (now at next to bottom) Still seems lean?? I turned my pilot in attempting to bring temp. down, It did a little, but idled and took off like crap, so..... Haven't went to 8 plug yet, still have alot of playing with jets to do. Oh yeh, still idles high in my opinion, but not enough to grind when changing gears, so this should be ok right? I have no tach to test it with. Well, any thoughts would be appreciated. I hate to keep beating this post to death. Thanks


