Ritter's pipe,maybe???
#1
Listen up RCR fans and wanna be's,here's my version of the good,the bad and the ugly/my own modifications
1.Upon receiving I inspected the pipe,first off I did not like the welding done on it but hey it goes on a ATV.
2.Installation was very easy,Ritter's instruction was very helpful
3.I liked the why the pipe fit snug inside the frame
4.The silencer,well right of the bat I did not like,one thing is you have to use his and the way the silencer clamped on seem to be very low budget.
5.I cut the end of the pipe off and extended it and welded it back on,as well as hooks for springs.So now I can use after marcket as well as stock.
6.After installation I noticed that the pipe vibrated to much,either on the frame or the pull starter after serveral adjustments.So I called Ritter to ask him is thier any way to make the pipe fit more snugly,he replyied that doing that could make the pipe break and I agreed with him and decide to make my own modification.
7.After looking at HPD's pipe I saw that a hook for a spring,just after the last bend was welded on and that's where I needed one so I welded a hook thier as well and now the pipe works great,it's snug and my DG silencer helped out as well.
All in all RCR's pipe is good but not that good and I just want to add that I have some friends who want the same MOD-PIPE that I have.
So when someone ask me what kind of pipe you have,I say"It's a R&H pipe."
I just want to add that I have a 99 400 SPORT
and when you install the RCR pipe you my have to do some modification to your shifter.Ritter's mod.
is a little bracket that fits at the end of the shifter arm to make it longer for clearence.
I found out you can use a 99 shifter from a T.B.
which works better than Rick's.
Rick's bracket rims out after alot of use,then becomes lose.
The shifter arm is inexpensive and I do believe it is on all the 2000's.
1.Upon receiving I inspected the pipe,first off I did not like the welding done on it but hey it goes on a ATV.
2.Installation was very easy,Ritter's instruction was very helpful
3.I liked the why the pipe fit snug inside the frame
4.The silencer,well right of the bat I did not like,one thing is you have to use his and the way the silencer clamped on seem to be very low budget.
5.I cut the end of the pipe off and extended it and welded it back on,as well as hooks for springs.So now I can use after marcket as well as stock.
6.After installation I noticed that the pipe vibrated to much,either on the frame or the pull starter after serveral adjustments.So I called Ritter to ask him is thier any way to make the pipe fit more snugly,he replyied that doing that could make the pipe break and I agreed with him and decide to make my own modification.
7.After looking at HPD's pipe I saw that a hook for a spring,just after the last bend was welded on and that's where I needed one so I welded a hook thier as well and now the pipe works great,it's snug and my DG silencer helped out as well.
All in all RCR's pipe is good but not that good and I just want to add that I have some friends who want the same MOD-PIPE that I have.
So when someone ask me what kind of pipe you have,I say"It's a R&H pipe."
I just want to add that I have a 99 400 SPORT
and when you install the RCR pipe you my have to do some modification to your shifter.Ritter's mod.
is a little bracket that fits at the end of the shifter arm to make it longer for clearence.
I found out you can use a 99 shifter from a T.B.
which works better than Rick's.
Rick's bracket rims out after alot of use,then becomes lose.
The shifter arm is inexpensive and I do believe it is on all the 2000's.
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#8
Hello folks ,
Thanks for constructive critisism on our products . I do listen to what is said in these forums and I do my best to make as many poeple happy as I can .
We use large chrome clamp to secure our muffler to the frame . This is not unlike many other manufacturers , I don't particularly care for welded on mount tabs in aluminum ,the durability is not the best . Maybe I should reconcider ?
Using a spring mount on the silencer (which you added ) will allow the pipe to move left and right in the frame , this explains need for the addition of the third spring you added to keep the pipe stable .
If I remember correctly , The DG silencer uses a smaller silencer core , this may have been changed lately , please check it , to small a core may perform better on the topend while losing a little torque, but most importantly , smaller cores tend to make engine temperatures hotter. Please take a look at this .
To secure my silencer tighter I would recommend using a second chrome clamp and a T-bolt clamp at the stinger . I have done this before on *problem * 400's . Some motors jump around more than others and may need to be secured a little snugger.
The shift linkage extension is mabe out of 6061 T-6 aluminum , I have never had a *wallowing out* of the holes , should I make this part out of steele? I really am suprised by this .
Our pipes are hand built , and just my luck one with unpleasant welds made it to the hands of a someone who is familiar with welding . If I need to compensate you for this , let me know .
Thank you for your input on the design of our pipes . We listen .
Sinecerely , Rick Ritter
Thanks for constructive critisism on our products . I do listen to what is said in these forums and I do my best to make as many poeple happy as I can .
We use large chrome clamp to secure our muffler to the frame . This is not unlike many other manufacturers , I don't particularly care for welded on mount tabs in aluminum ,the durability is not the best . Maybe I should reconcider ?
Using a spring mount on the silencer (which you added ) will allow the pipe to move left and right in the frame , this explains need for the addition of the third spring you added to keep the pipe stable .
If I remember correctly , The DG silencer uses a smaller silencer core , this may have been changed lately , please check it , to small a core may perform better on the topend while losing a little torque, but most importantly , smaller cores tend to make engine temperatures hotter. Please take a look at this .
To secure my silencer tighter I would recommend using a second chrome clamp and a T-bolt clamp at the stinger . I have done this before on *problem * 400's . Some motors jump around more than others and may need to be secured a little snugger.
The shift linkage extension is mabe out of 6061 T-6 aluminum , I have never had a *wallowing out* of the holes , should I make this part out of steele? I really am suprised by this .
Our pipes are hand built , and just my luck one with unpleasant welds made it to the hands of a someone who is familiar with welding . If I need to compensate you for this , let me know .
Thank you for your input on the design of our pipes . We listen .
Sinecerely , Rick Ritter
#9
just wondering how many times would it take "shifting back and forward" to wear out the linkage. I just receved my quad back from rcr. I took my whole quad down to rick and said "I want this quad to rip". Well let me tell you rick is the man. It does. and if you saw them making the pipes by hand you would stand there in ow. to rick " MY HATS OFF TO YOU". I will be sending alot of people to you.
thanks for your time
lipp
99 sc 400 rcr ful-mod
ps. as for pipes and as we say "there is nothing better than a hand job"
thanks for your time
lipp
99 sc 400 rcr ful-mod
ps. as for pipes and as we say "there is nothing better than a hand job"
#10
I'm happy with mine, and Rick was there to answer every dunb question I could call with. Good customer service is the benchmark all companies, and their products should be judged by.
The only thing I did to mine was I added a 90 degree elbow to the silencer to make it a little quieter. If only there was a kit for my '93 Sportsman 350 4X4.
The only thing I did to mine was I added a 90 degree elbow to the silencer to make it a little quieter. If only there was a kit for my '93 Sportsman 350 4X4.