Agreed, I guess it depends on how hard your going to push the ATV.
If I was going into a place where I have torn the heck out of my machine,
#1.. I would go a different route or #2 take the proper gear and replacement parts, to fix any unknown.....

They make full Steel under panells and rocker plates and CV metal protection plates to discourage that kind of damage, but there is always a unknown rock / stick that will show up...

If your going on a nasty ride, bring the shop... but if it is a good pleasure ride, not much offcamber, and no jumping / roosting....then bring the basic's tools....IMHO[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Traildog,
Care to give us 500 owners your secret to the water pump seal failures/ and the correct fix[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

<!--EZCODE FONT START--><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: helvetica">Waterpump Seal Longevity Tip</SPAN><!--EZCODE FONT END-->

Here's a couple of tips that will help to keep your engine coolant clean which will pervent premature coolant pump seal failure. These are recommended modifications if you do a lot of mud or submerge your ATV in any substance.

There are 2 areas that need attention.

1. The overflow bottle has a small hole in the top that draws in muddy water when the engine is cooled as it would be going through a mud hole. This contaminates the coolant and will in time damage the water pump seal.

The Fix

Find a piece of clear Tygon (plastic) tubing of no more than 1/4", you will also need to find/make a hose connector that will fit snuggly into the tubing.
Drill the out the hole large enough to insert the hose connector and fix it in place (no leaks) then attach the Tygon tubing to it and run the other end up to the the air intake tube and hold in place with a tie wrap.

2. (Most important) The main reason the water pump seal fails is contamination from muddy water entering the weep hole under the seal. Muddy water has direct access to the seal via this hole.

The Fix

Find a piece of 1/4" metal tubing (I used stainless steel) about 1" long and about 2 foot of 1/4" Tygon (plastic) tubing.
You will need to taper one end of the metal tubing for approx 1/4" so that it fit's into the weep hole. With a little 5 min epoxy applied to the tapered end, place the tapered end into the weep hole and with a small hammer gently tap into place until snug. Allowing 15 mins for the epoxy to cure properly, slip one end of the Tygon tubing on to the newly made hose connector and run the other end up behind the engine to the frame. Tie wrap at 4 to 6" higher than the weep hole and the let the end hang down at a convenient location.

Most automotive parts stores carry clear plastic tubing and a variety to connectors that can be addapted to do the job.

Edit: You can easily make your own fitting to go into either the overflow bottle cap, or the weep hole out of an automotive grease zerk. Purchase a couple of the small threaded zerks (1/4 inch fine thread) and remove the check-ball from it. This is most easily done by clamping the zerk in a vice or with locking pliers, and filing away at the BACK side of the zerk, until the spring and ball can be removed. Now simply drill and tap the hole to the proper size (again, 1/4 inch, fine thread) being VERY careful not to drill too deep at the weep hole. A few people have found the weep hole to be big enough to tap without drilling the hole larger. Thread the zerk into the hole, and you have a ready-made nipple for attatching the 1/4" tubing. Also, the only permanent mod to the engine case is the threading of the weep hole.