Hi guys I've literally read every post on this forum pertaining to the bike that I'm working on for my son, and I still cannot figure it out. To shorten a very long story I have started over , building a harness from the stator out .....if that makes sense.

I am aware of the colors and their functions coming out of the stator what I'm need help with is The Handlebar and kill switch area, along with CDI issues. I will get some pictures soon but I have it wired up to where there's really no reason it should not fire. I think I have a ground somewhere I don't know electricity and that certainly doesn't help a diagnosing this problem. Just a quick question first, is it possible to have power going into one side of the push button for the starter, and the other side going to a ground?

 

Yes, with conventionally wired start buttons you would get the wire from button to solenoid showing as negative, because the solenoid coil is negative all the time.

Also, odd machines have a pos wire from ignition switch directly to solenoid, on these the neg wire to the solenoid goes via the start button. Not common, for starters, but a lot of horn buttons are wired that way.

 

Thank you for responding. It's a long story but I received this 110 Chinese quad for next to nothing it's in great shape I refuse to let it go. Shortened a long story the bike had been underwater and there was green corrosion on a lot of the plugs in the harness, that I was not aware of until after my brother started hacking up the harness trying to fix it. Another harness was ordered installed by him and then hacked up again by him. I have the bike wired to run the ac ignition system and cdi.....only.. no other wires on bike.

I have a blue and white wire coming out of the stator from the pickup, going to the CDI box, in the correct location and I can't remember the specs right now but it is within specification.. I think.

yellow and white wires coming from the lighting coil I don't have them hooked up to anything currently



Red w black tracer is AC ignition output and I'm getting 60 volt AC while cranking, going to cdi box.

green wire is going to ground

Out of cdi box i have yellow with black Tracer going to the positive side of the ignition coil.

the black with white tracer I have going to a three-way splice, one of them goes to the ignition key, the other one goes to the on and off rocker switch on the handlebars. Specifically it is going to the post that is not being contacted when the switch is in the Run position.

From the battery positive cable it goes right to the starter solenoid then from the other post on the starter solenoid there's a heavy gauge wire going to the starter motor.
Off of the relay there are two wires one is yellow with red tracer I have it going to the push button starter on the handlebars. The yellow with green Tracer I have going to ground

the push button for the starter on the handlebars, one side is being fed from the positive wire on the starter relay the other side is going directly to the key switch.

there are four wires coming out of the key switch one is the black and white that I have going to the one side of the on and off rocker switch. The green wire is going to ground. The red wire is going to the battery. There is also a black wire that I have going to the on/off rocker switch on hande bars.

I know that's probably a lot to try to comprehend especially when I have no writing skills LOL, and it turns over the key works like it should but there is no spark under any circumstances. After the fact I found out about the AC and DC powered CDI boxes, and I've tested the two that I do have in other bikes and they do work. I don't know what else to do to get Spark I really have a feeling my wiring problem is in The Handlebar area and me not knowing electricity I can't figure it out.

 

Ugh

 

Wiring for ignition switch doesn't sound right, otherwise you seem to have got things OK. There should be a red, via a fuse, from battery to ign switch. With ign on, another wire from the switch should be pos, this goes to the start button, (though wiring start button direct from battery will work). Now the other two wires from ignition switch, one goes to earth, the other to the black/white CDI wire, most use earth to kill, so the switch should show earth on the black/white when switch is off and open circuit when switch is on. Odd makes do it t'other way round, and have a different switch and CDI to suit. Easy way to tell is to try for a spark with the black/white disconnected, if no spark, try earthing black/white and see if it now sparks.

Be sure you have all the pinouts to CDI right, check against your other bikes if the CDI works on them, as pinouts do vary between makers.

 

I forgot to mention that during this process I found a video that basically deletes everything except the wires needed to run the ignition. The black and white wire now consists of : originates at the CDI between the red and green wires in the plug, it goes to a three-way splice. One of them goes to the ignition switch the other goes to the on and off rocker switch on the handlebars.

now I might add the other side of the rocker switch is connected to ground.this doesnt seem right?

the ignition switch has four wires the red one is connected to the fused wire at the 12 volt DC source. The black and white one is connected to the black and white wire that is also connected to the rocker switch and the CDI box. The green wire is going to ground. And there's a black wire that is going to the push button for the starter.

 

 

The black/white going to a kill switch on the handlebars with other side of switch earthed is correct, as I posted above, most kill wires are earth to kill so, when you turn the switch to kill, it shorts the kill wire to earth. Also as I wrote above, some work the other way round, earth to run on the kill wire, so disconnect kill wire and see if you have a spark, if not, earth kill wire and see if you have a spark.

You also mention having a red and a green wire at CDI, green, yes that is the earth, but a red wire? On AC setups, you have black/yellow to coil, black/red from power coil on stator, black/white from trigger coil on stator, green earth, and black/white kill wire. Some have an extra wire from trigger, depending if the trigger coil uses earth for return or two wires.

 

Thank you for getting back to me sorry for the late response. I apologize for looking over everything that you had to repeat in your last post I didn't read it thoroughly I'm so frustrated with this thing. Now that I'm back on the bike, I'm doing some testing. I grounded and ungrounded the wire going to the kill switch like you recommended, no change. However I did notice just now that when I crank it over I get 55 volts ac out of the stator wire (red w black tracer) when the stator is unplugged from the harness. When you plug it into the harness, it drops to 30 volts ac while cranking?

the way that I have it set up now there's only two wires coming out of the stator. Blue with white tracer, pick up. And the red with black tracer, and they both go directly to the CDI box. When you're testing AC, does it make a difference if I have my ground Probe on the negative terminal of the battery which is obviously DC?

if I unplug the CDI box it goes back up to 55 volts while cranking. With the stator harness hooked to the main harness.


forgive me if this is a dumb question, but if the stator is being grounded to the main harness in the bike which is basically grounded to the battery which is DC, would this cause any issues?

I just looked at another wiring diagram and it's showing the ground from the stator going right to the CDI box. And then the ground out of the CDI going to the coil?

 

Grounds just go to earth. Negatives don't always have to, but usually do. The grounds for the power coil (red/black) and trigger (blue/white) are on completely separate circuits to the battery. You can test these AC circuits with probe on battery neg, as it is earthed too, but a long way from the engine, so I prefer the probe on an engine case. Check the AC output from the CDI to coil when engine is spun over. This should be quite high, often over 100v, so avoid a shock. As I wrote above, are you sure the pinouts are correct for that CDI?