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help between 450s???

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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #51  
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well as regards to the oil - if u saw the link rubicon put up it showed oil just for these quads----Bel-Ray Thumper 4-Stroke Racing Motor Oil---so maybe thats better--idk how much it costs---how often do u change your oil? how many hours would u guess?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 01:56 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by lil-man23
well as regards to the oil - if u saw the link rubicon put up it showed oil just for these quads----Bel-Ray Thumper 4-Stroke Racing Motor Oil---so maybe thats better--idk how much it costs---how often do u change your oil? how many hours would u guess?
Right now, I'm changing it so often that I don't think I need anything special.
In fact, I think it would be a waste.

And the 15w40 Rotella is actually very excellent oil for hard use.
Contains no friction modifiers that hurt wet clutches...
And contains what many automotive oils do not...
(better anti-wear protection)

Everybody and their mama in the engine world is recommending it for tougher service. Matter of fact, I was just at my dads several hours ago and he was telling me his engine builder told him Rotella ONLY in his fresh '68 big block build.

And this oil is cheap too... not because it is 'cheap' but because it moves in such LARGE VOLUME.


I don't have an hour meter on my quad (I should) so I can't say how long I go between drains. Purely guessing, I'd guess 5-10 hours right now? I don't really know.


If I could find one I could run a bit longer between drains, I would.
Like if I could go twice as long between drains I'd pay twice as much.


Right now though, I drain when I feel the change in the trans.
A beefier oil might extend that.

I just don't know if it will stay clean long enough to go twice as long.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 02:05 AM
  #53  
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Oh, and to go along with the Bel Ray literature... here is an "ACTUAL" photo of the piston on a KFX 450R.

Similar, but a little more impressive looking...

IMG_3910.jpg?t=1248202993

(I think this is a race engine ran on Rotella... I'll ask the owner)
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 05:20 AM
  #54  
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I'm using the Rotella also. It is cheap enough that I change it out every 5-6 hours of ride time. My YFZ actually shifts just a touch better on the synthetic, which is about double the price of the regular, although I have used that with good results as well. I have also been running one of the stainless oil filters, which is nice because you get a better idea of just how much crap is getting filtered out of the oil. Up until I bought that, i was changing the filter every second oil change like Duster. I was using the expensive motorcycle oils, tried several different brands, but the Rotella seems to stack up well. BTW, I just replaced my stock clutch after 4 seasons of hard use(I race xc.) It was still working fine, I just can't stand to break down and figured it was time to get preventative. The clutch had plenty of time on it with Rotella.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 08:51 AM
  #55  
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Manufacturers have a vested interest in presenting their machines as being "low maintenance". So...the maintenance intervals in the owner's manuals are based on "ideal" conditions (like no dust and cruiser riding), that don't exist in the real world.

10-15 hours between oil changes is long for a 450! If you go to sites like Thumpertalk, where the majority of riders are riding high strung thumpers, the average oil change interval is probably something like 5 hours.

Excellent idea as well to run a high quality ester based synthetic oil. I like Redline, and Maxima Extra/Ultra/530MX.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #56  
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now what if you dont change the oil - like what problems will occur if u keep the same oild in there for 25 hrs? not saying i will but i just wanna know what it does to the machine- just lack of performance? or decaying of the engine?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by lil-man23
now what if you dont change the oil - like what problems will occur if u keep the same oild in there for 25 hrs? not saying i will but i just wanna know what it does to the machine- just lack of performance? or decaying of the engine?
It's going to eat the engine alive I think...

Because it breaks the oil down to nothing in a hurry... and contaminates it in a hurry... and probably dilutes it as Bel Ray is saying too.

A 50 oil would probably be better for them I think...
Like 10w50, 15w50 or 20w50...


I've been thinking really hard about trying the 15w50 Mobil 1.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:30 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by lil-man23
now what if you dont change the oil - like what problems will occur if u keep the same oild in there for 25 hrs? not saying i will but i just wanna know what it does to the machine- just lack of performance? or decaying of the engine?
Look at the graphs in the link I sited....this isn't rocket science! Go pour some gas in some oil and see what it does to the viscosity of the oil. Just an 8% dilution will turn a 20W50 oil into a 5W30, that will be to thin to protect at high temperatures and screaming RPM's.

Some of you may think that starting with a 50 weight might be a good solution, but remember that thick oils take longer to get pumping on a cold start, which is when most engine wear occurs! So, that isn't ever going to be the answer either.

Just go out to the garage and change your oils at some reasonable interval, and run the viscosity your owner's manual recommends for your outside temperature!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by reconranger
Look at the graphs in the link I sited....this isn't rocket science! Go pour some gas in some oil and see what it does to the viscosity of the oil. Just an 8% dilution will turn a 20W50 oil into a 5W30, that will be to thin to protect at high temperatures and screaming RPM's.

Some of you may think that starting with a 50 weight might be a good solution, but remember that thick oils take longer to get pumping on a cold start, which is when most engine wear occurs! So, that isn't ever going to be the answer either.

Just go out to the garage and change your oils at some reasonable interval, and run the viscosity your owner's manual recommends for your outside temperature!
I agree with the frequent intervals... and I will keep on letting my sight glass in the case and the feel of my tranny urge me to drain.

If it keeps staying this frequent though, I have a hard time justifying pouring really expensive oils in it. What would be the point in that?

As for the heavier viscosity oils, I find it is not as bad as many make it to be...

Something like 15w40 or 20w50 is OK all the time pretty much in my climate. My Kawi Manual states 10w is OK from -10 up.... and 20w is OK from 0 up.


Now from personal experience I can tell you what I have learned about cold startups in general on about any 4 stroke engine... I have owned several vehicles that gave me the "RATTLE OF DEATH" on cold mornings with stuff like 5w30 and synthetics....

Yes, it absolutely pumps faster... but what I have found is that it also settles back off the moving parts much easier overnight. So there's no oil on stuff until it pumps up.

I've found in these engines that going to a thicker viscosity oil does away with this. Oil stays all over everything and there is sufficient lubrication available until fresh oil pumps up.

I've gotten long engine life from being observant and thinking a little outside the box. But I don't live in a sub-zero climate either... which is nice.


For example, the Rotella 15w40 is one that I know clings to things. I put it in my 400EX, rode it hard, then had it sitting around a couple of weeks with ethanol problems. While I had the tank off, I decided to check the valves since it had been a year.... and I was very impressed with the oil film on the top end considering how hot it was when I shut it off and how long it had sat.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 01:22 PM
  #60  
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oh ok - i live in new york and its very hot now--will be getting really cold in the winter so you think i can use any oil -rotella 10W50 - 20W50? what oil would you think is best (for the price) for the KFX450?
 
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