Question about Plastic
#1
#2
Question about Plastic
I've heard of some new paints for plastic that are out that may work pretty well. I think possibly Krylon has one out. Problem is that normal paint doesn't bend with the plastic real well, so ifyour thinking of just doing a spray can and primer deal with some clear coat-it may not work, I never actually tried it so can't guarantee anything. I would imagine if you used an automotive bumper primer for plastic bumpers it may help if it has a flex additive. Or you could use an actual air gun and add your own flex additive with the paint and possibly primer too. All in all, its probably cheaper to just buy fenders if you need new ones for what it would cost to do it right (automotive grade)
#5
Question about Plastic
the paint thats out now is called kylon fussion for plastics (spray paint) might try it this summer. putting a clear coat on it will help some butitwill still crap and chip.
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1999 250 trail blazer
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k&n filter DG exhaust for now
just to make it a lil lounder
titan 489 xts on the back
maxxis razors on the front
full skid plate,bash gaurd
rebuilt trans,D.I.D chain
pro amor belt,scott grips
the newer model tie rod ends
12 t front 36 t back sprokets
neon shifter ****, pro burner lights
stronger back caliper holder i made at a friends shop
cut front fenders with the floor boards removed
--------------------------
1999 250 trail blazer
--------------------------
k&n filter DG exhaust for now
just to make it a lil lounder
titan 489 xts on the back
maxxis razors on the front
full skid plate,bash gaurd
rebuilt trans,D.I.D chain
pro amor belt,scott grips
the newer model tie rod ends
12 t front 36 t back sprokets
neon shifter ****, pro burner lights
stronger back caliper holder i made at a friends shop
cut front fenders with the floor boards removed
#6
Question about Plastic
I have used Dupli-Color for plastic car bumpers with much success. You must apply a thin coat of their clear primer first to assure a good bond. You can use the clear coat as will but make sure it is the same type as the paint for plastic bumpers.
The trick is to apply thin even coats, just enough to cover, not too much. It bends with the plastic very well. If you are looking for the super high gloss of factory new plastics this will not a;;ease your eye, but looks great when applied right and will last a long time. The Krylon stuff does not work as well. I have tried both on my many restos.
JustMe
The trick is to apply thin even coats, just enough to cover, not too much. It bends with the plastic very well. If you are looking for the super high gloss of factory new plastics this will not a;;ease your eye, but looks great when applied right and will last a long time. The Krylon stuff does not work as well. I have tried both on my many restos.
JustMe
#7
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#8
Question about Plastic
i saw a plastic polish in dirt wheels that was supposed to be good for plastics. you sandpaper the plastic with a fine grade sandpaper and then buff it with this stuff or somthing along those lines and it should shine as long as you dont wash it reguarly with dish detergent. it gets out scratches and suposidly looks like new. I need to get some of it anybody reccomend where to buy some. it was like scratch off or somthin i dont remember the name and i think i accidently threw away that issue
#9
#10
Question about Plastic
Yea,
I bought the plastic renew stuff at www.denniskirk.com. It requires you to wet sand the plasitcs which also allows you to sand out scratches. I used a higher grit for the final sanding than the kit gave me. I went to 1200 for the final.
I applied the stuff as directed except in between the 2nd and third coat I wet sanded with 2000 grit to smooth it out even more. (the kit gives you 0000 steel wool but the 2k grit sand paper worked better for me)
After I finished it looked awesome! The mistake I made was not remebering that "less is more!" I applied too many coats-more than needed and the finished cracked after a few rides. I had to strip it down again using 100% ammonia. (I swear this stuff is just future floor polish for acrilic floors!)
The only drawback is that you can't stick and stretch your graphics after you put this stuff on. Did you read this? WHEN YOU PUT YOUR GRAPHICS ON APPLY THEM W/O WATER AND STICK ON IN ONE SWIPE.
If you stick them and then peel back to stretch, the sealant sticks to your graphics and ruins any chance of them bonding back on the plastic.
If you use clear coat for paints instead of the plastic renew stuff, it will crack as soon as the plastics stretch and bend.
Just Me
I bought the plastic renew stuff at www.denniskirk.com. It requires you to wet sand the plasitcs which also allows you to sand out scratches. I used a higher grit for the final sanding than the kit gave me. I went to 1200 for the final.
I applied the stuff as directed except in between the 2nd and third coat I wet sanded with 2000 grit to smooth it out even more. (the kit gives you 0000 steel wool but the 2k grit sand paper worked better for me)
After I finished it looked awesome! The mistake I made was not remebering that "less is more!" I applied too many coats-more than needed and the finished cracked after a few rides. I had to strip it down again using 100% ammonia. (I swear this stuff is just future floor polish for acrilic floors!)
The only drawback is that you can't stick and stretch your graphics after you put this stuff on. Did you read this? WHEN YOU PUT YOUR GRAPHICS ON APPLY THEM W/O WATER AND STICK ON IN ONE SWIPE.
If you stick them and then peel back to stretch, the sealant sticks to your graphics and ruins any chance of them bonding back on the plastic.
If you use clear coat for paints instead of the plastic renew stuff, it will crack as soon as the plastics stretch and bend.
Just Me
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