Glad to hear it cleaned up your jetting issues... That can be very frustrating indeed.

The case/main bearing issue.... If yours are tight... be happy! Unless they've had the fix, they will eventually need it.
Mine lasted 12 years before it got loose, so it just depends on how they are treated, and how Murphy's law is applied.
Mine started to vibrate more and more, then eventually started to lean out on the top end... that's when I went looking for the trouble.
When you do get them fixed... have someone that knows what the heck is going on fix them... My pristine cases are junk thanks to the idiot I had do them. (Cracked all around the insert)

Here I go again!

 

Well, rode all weekend, 50:1 ran fine. Cleaned up indeed. However i did get some weeping between the case and cylender. About a 1/2'' wide stripe of black on the left side, on saturday. Cleaned it before sundays ride and
it stayed clean all day. Is that typical or do I need to pull the jug? I did check the nuts at the base of the jug they
are good&tight (German virgin) . Anything to be concerned about? Other than that its a ripper.

The TRX smoked the 18 year old stock bearing carrier. Gotta get that back togeather for Memorial weekend.
Glad it happened now.

Thanks for everything Addict,
Freak

 

mmmm, I like them German girlz... especially when they are as you described!!

Is the 'weeping' directly below the exh pipe? If so, it's probably your base gasket letting some gas escape from the little chamber that runs down there.... I'd pull it down and put in a new gasket... but I'm **** too.
Shouldn't really hurt anything other than it's a leaker.

If it's truely on the left side.... your base gasket is leaking and will eventually lean out and kill your motor... hmm... If it's black, sounds to me like soot.... shouldn't be on the crank case side... Did you do a leak-down test on your motor? You probably should if not.

 

Yeah, it was oil in the dust, maybe soot between the the studs on the mag side, not the clutch side. And around the back under the reed cage. I'm thinking , since it did not come back after wiping it clean, that it was due to the 32:1 mix. I hope I dont have to tear it down before memorial weekend.

It probably took most of the day saturday to push out the excess oil sitting in the case. Oil was even oozing from the rivets in the silencer. Anyhow it diddnt come back the during the next days ride. It stayed real clean.

I'm not real hip on exactly how to do a leakdown test or a compression test for that matter. I think Motion-Pro
sells a leak-down test kit. I think I read the how-to on McDizzy, build your own. I know these are things I should be able to do my self. Whats the best way to go about it?

Also, I had a chat with Delmar today. He recommends the cool head along with the carb. Not so much as a performance upgrade, rather a reliability upgrade because its billet and thicker aluminum than stock between the studs. He says its the best way to secure your head gasket.

I also had a chat with one of the old timers at magic racing too. He says dont mess with it, just live with the shortcomings of the mikuni carb, cause it already has 50+ hp.

This is all alot to fathom right now. I'm not lookin to be the big dog, just the lead dog in my pack. The TRX does the job right now. I just want the same crisp throttle response my trx has with the pwk carb.

I would like to do a leak down test first to see where I stand.

 

DO NOT let Delmar sell you a coolhead! That shortfall can be fixed by using larger studs in the cylinder...
The coolhead is way overrated. (Delmar isn't the sharpest tool in the shed)
Apparently Magic racing is a little 'thick' too.

The '87 mikuni had some jetting circuitry issues that were corrected in the later models... not to mention they are just too small to flow enough air for this motor.

A leakdown test is pretty much manditory based on what you told me... Especially a leak under the reed cage... Can be really bad!!!

You can buy one (Quickest way) or just build your own tester... It's really quite simple to do.
basically you just pressure up the motor, and see if it holds over a short period of time.
If it doesn't, start looking for leaks... Base gaskets are another big area for problems...

Be careful who you listen to... In fact, you should question everyones judgement. This is how the 'puppy' shops screw so many folks. Study study study and learn what you need to know... This way you rely on nobody but yourself... Your results just might surprise you.

regards,

 

Geeze, that isnt what I wanted to hear. I just dumped a grand on the rear end of my trx to get her ready for Memorial weekend. Mission accomplished, she's ready. As for the Zilla, it hasnt even had a bath since last weekend. I forgot to mention, the head was leaking a few drops of coolant also. Re-torking the nuts sealed it up though.(RE: Coolhead discussion w/Delmar) In his opinion it was the best proven fix for the head gasket issue.
I really wanted to wait till after Memorial to get that involved with the Zilla. The motion-pro leak down tester runs
$250 or so. Its somthing I would like to have, or make my own, or maybe somone would make one for me.

All the little leaks happened on saturday. Ran real good on sunday without a drip, or weep. I almost put it on the trailer when the coolant leak occured. After it stopped I figured what the heck, and it was fine.

What should I do?

 

Well, you could always take the wait and see method. I would avoid WFO operation for prolonged periods, just in case you do have a leak... you won't be leaning it out on the big end.

Re-torque all your bolts again, and keep an eye on it.... Too close to Mem day to be doing a rebuild! (That's what I'm doing )

 

I edited my last post, it wasnt oil leaking from the head it was coolant. I will definately do a leakdown test
before any mods.

I guess I'll just let it ride for now.

I was 13 years old when theese machines came out, and it took me another 17 years to get one. I diddnt realise
the cubic dollar commitment to keep this thing alive. I'll get some pics up, I'm kinda thinking about letting it go.
Seems like I get an offer every time I take it out. I'm more worried about hurting it than having fun on it.
See how it goes next weekend, maybe I'll be in love again.

Thanks for all your help, I'll keep you posted.
Freak

 

Freak,

""I diddnt realise the cubic dollar commitment to keep this thing alive.""

I think this catches many people off guard.. there will be a new batch comming to a theatre near you very soon... As the restoration craze of the old antiques has really ramped up... It's made me upset that all the old used parts are going for big bux... but when people realize the commitment... they'll be dumping them again, and parts/machine costs will drop again.. (Yahoo, I can't wait)

I'll never part with mine... But this machine isn't for everyone.

You must realize one thing.... If you take the time and $$$ to completely go through the motor, and fix the short commings... It can/will be as reliable as anything else out there... And will flat haul some tail in the process.
In stock form, they tend to be less than reliable, and VERY de-tuned (A snorty YFZ will out run a stocker).
The average guy will just send his off to a 'puppy' shop... cost big $$'s and still have a questionable motor (And a warm feeling that your leg's just been humped)

Glad I can help out...