Suzuki still does offer them and yes your right they retail for about $1357.00 from suzuki. It would cost me $800.00 to have it my door. The crazy part is the 88-90 frame is only $875.00 retail. I wish that was the frame i needed then it would be alot cheaper. I talked to the only atv salvage around here and hes got a 90 frame but Im pretty sure its not going to work.As for the porting work it looks like they did a good job, I think what the problem is is my carb. When it was running before I had these clutch problems it seemed pretty snappy but just didnt have its all I didnt think. Any way I llok at it though its faster than my stock 86 which is sweet. Should I return that Hinson basket or keep it. I paid something like $160.00 for it and I dont have enough money yet to buy a new carb kit because of that bassket. So shold I keep it and wait for enough funds to buy the carb kit or take it back and get the carb kit now? On Monday i get my clutch cover gasket in so I can put it back together (the motor at least) and possibly put it back in my old frame for a little bit just to see how the motor runs. Actually I dont think ill waste the time putting it back in the old frame I think im just going to wait until I get another frame before I try and tune it in. Maybe by then Ill have a carb kit to complete my little motor upgrade. Im having a tough time getting the spacer ( the one that goes on the shaft that the center needle bearing rides on) For some reason I think its welded or something to the shaft because I can not get it off. Thanks for all the suggestions,keep them coming....

 

What kinda gearing should I have on this thing. I think im going to try and race it this summer so I guess Ill need a smaller front is that right? Currently im running a 13 in the front and a 38t in the rear. Thanks for all the help...

 

ditch that POS carb!! i had a 34mm Mikuni SS or w/e and it was bored to 36mm too, it was garbash. it started cracking, leeking, you name it it did it, even after i installed a carb-rebuild kit. its junk. ditch it and go for that Carb from Trinity racing, it also comes with a sick manifold which lets you clamp on the included K&N airfilter, although i rigged up a clamp on UNI to my carb seemed to work good. lets see... stock gearing on a LT250R is.. 12/42. .. . i had 12/42 and i had a 11 tooth front, i liked the 12 better, it held the gears longer, i was shifting waay to much with the 11.. you have 13/38 which is more top-end ... i would suggest going to a 12/38 or a 12/40 start with the 12 and see how you like it, only 15$ for a new sproket cant go wrong

 

What kind of racing are you going to be doing?

 

With the extra hp you might wanna keep those tall gears,it will only make a little difference on the bottom, but up top it will add a couple mph, unless youre gonna be always in some tight trails.I too am rebuilding my 91 frame up, every nut and bolt will be new, every bearing,all lines,plastics,a arms,shocks,axle, everything.The motor has already been done its just sitting waiting for me to install, ( ct racing port job) but its been a 1 1/2yr project so far (was only supposed to be a winter) i figured it like this, why half step?if your gonna do it take it to the house all the way, then youll have something like no one elses.There's a guy here in mass that sells nice bushing kits for good money its called richards bushings.ALSO if you plan on buying something from ronnies call tower distributing in new ashford mass,its ronnie's warehouse in the next town over and things will be like 10% cheaper which adds up in the long run.If you havent found a frame yet pm me one of my friends has about 10 250's and like 5 or 6 zilla's in a trailer in pieces.ill hook you up with a number he's into swapping and bartering or whatever.good guy true atver.i think he bought out an old race team or something. well good luck post up some pics. later

 

here's a 91 frame that looks good

Link

I'm also doing a total restore of an LT. A complete rebuild of everything.... all new bearings, bushings, and hardware on the chassis, new shocks, new engine bearings, seals, etc. Basically i'm turning it into a new Racer (as close as possible). I'm guessing i'm half way done with about $1500 into it so roughly thats about $3000-$3500 for the entire project. Still better than $6000+ for a new fourstroke.

 

I got a pair of '85s his & hers LOL.. both were stripped to bare frame and repainted everything. I replaced her frame with one from ebay for $20, and welded 1/8" x 1/2" strips along the bottom of the chassis for extra strength. painted hers metallic black with silver suspension, clearcoated it all, shiny yellow plastic, rebuilt & ported the engine, clamp-on filter, tusk bars, polished wheels etc.. Mine I stripped and painted it bright RED and used grey plastics, black seat, silver suspension, I built a 4-1/2" extended swingarm from scratch, new sprockets, brakes, rotors, chain, cables, renthal bars, FMF, K&N clamp-on, 39mm Mikuni, ported, shaved head, boyesen, and some other stuff too I am sure I forget. I repainted my shock springs red too, so mine is all red and silver with grey plastic... very cool looking, it takes people a while to finally ask what it is usually, since there isn't anything blue or yellow on it.

 

One cheap mod you can do is put in rear tappered axle bearings. You don't need to buy an aftermarket carrier for several $$$ either. My brother went to a machine shop with the stock bearings and they found a set of tapered ones that had the same inner and outer diameter, and were only minimally wider. They were also much cheaper than factory Suzuki ball bearings. The only thing is, your axle will be moved about 1/8 of an inch to the left because the carrier isn't machined quite deep enough on the left side for the wider bearings. What my brother did was flip the front sprocket around with the lip on the inside which moved the sprocket out just a tad. This made the front and rear sprockets line up perfectly. To properly fix it, you could have a machinest bore the carrier slightly deeper on that side to make the tapered bearings fit like stock. That probably wouldn't cost too much either.

Helm Enterprises has fairly cheap front bushing kits for the a-arms. They also have them for the shock mounts but they squeak a lot. There good though.

Your plastic for an 85 should fit fine. The only difference we've found between 91-92 versus all other year (other than black nose piece on 85-86) is that under the seat, the cross bracing is molded different. That shouldn't pose a problem at all.

 

Well ive got good news I jsut one the 92 frame off of ebay that ive been waiting for. Im excited i got it for $247 shipped to me and thats pretty good considering i live in Alaska. So now the building process is on. Im stoked ill post some pics later of the process. I also jsut recently sent off almost all of my parts to a guy who is going to Powdercoat all of my misc parts that are just fine just need a little love. Ill post sme pics of that to.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

check out my two prodjects, I'v done almost every thing to them between the two bikes. The 88 is my new prodject 90% complete, and i went all out on this one. all thats left is finishing my motor and front shocks. so if you have any specific questions about somthing I would be glad to answer. I myself have decided to go with the leader in performance, (www.DuncanRacing.com) I'm buying thier national kit. I HOPE IT PERFORMS WELL!