Got it! You are missing the one/off switch for the headlights. Your headlights are always on. The switch you have is the hi/low beam switch. The way you have it now, hook the grey to the regulator circuit (there should be a 4-way connector with grey wires going to it somewhere). Hook the white and yellow wire to the headlight. Make sure the orange from the magneto is also hooked into the greys. If you ever decide to get an on/off switch for the headlights, just put it in between the orange and grey wires to cut the power from the magneto to the whole lighting circuit.

Orange is always hot
Grey is hot after the light switch is on.
White is hot only when light switch is on and beam switch is on low
Yellow is hot only when light switch is on and beam switch is on high
Black/White is always ground.

 

what year u have g force? do u have a switch on ur throttle????? thats the on off on mine for lights the tail light should be the wire to the back

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

Got it! You are missing the one/off switch for the headlights. Your headlights are always on. The switch you have is the hi/low beam switch. The way you have it now, hook the grey to the regulator circuit (there should be a 4-way connector with grey wires going to it somewhere). Hook the white and yellow wire to the headlight. Make sure the orange from the magneto is also hooked into the greys. If you ever decide to get an on/off switch for the headlights, just put it in between the orange and grey wires to cut the power from the magneto to the whole lighting circuit.



Orange is always hot

Grey is hot after the light switch is on.

White is hot only when light switch is on and beam switch is on low

Yellow is hot only when light switch is on and beam switch is on high

Black/White is always ground.</end quote></div>


Yep that is what it has to be (missing on off switch for the lights) thanks for simplifying explanation it deffinitely helps.


<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 270quadsportguy

what year u have g force? do u have a switch on ur throttle????? thats the on off on mine for lights the tail light should be the wire to the back</end quote></div>

When I bought the atv it already had an aftermarket twist throttle (which I had planned to do anyway) so since I don't have the original thumb throttle I think that answers what's going on, no on/off switch for the lights with my current setup (twist throttle).

 

So I finally got a hold of someone at Kustom Kraft regarding the Big Bore kit (apparently they were on vacation down in Baja), what he said they would need from me is to send the cylinder head and they would work their magic and send me back the reworked head w/ the new piston and seals and I put it back together. He said it would be around a 2 week turn around unless I had some kind of special request for a quicker turn around.
I asked him since I ordered and received the valves, guides and seals if they do any kind of work with that and he said they don't but he has a friend in town that does atv repair and if I wanted he could contact him and have him do it if I didn't have anyone locally, of course he didn't know the friends pricing, turn around time etc but he said if I couldn't get it done locally to let them know and he would contact his friend.
Would I need the cylinder head for the valve job? Or while that is being worked for the big bore could I have the valve job done in the meantime locally? Or should I have the big bore done receive everything back then take it to a machinist for the valve guides, valves, seals and have everthing put together there?

Or would it be smarter for me to just buy the big bore kit on my own and have a local machine shop do it all, assuming someone here can. Kustom Kraft is charging $329.00 for the above mentioned so not sure if that really is a deal since no valve work is included.

I really wish I knew more about this stuff[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

I'm kinda confused? They want you to send your cylinder head, but they don't do any head work, yet his friend does? The cylinder head is the hunk of aluminum that contains the valves. The jug is the part that contains the cylinder.

Do they need the cylinder head for some reason? Or just the jug? I would have a local shop do the valve work instead of shipping it to them. Valve work is pretty remedial for a shop.

$329 is a decent deal. Resleeving alone costs about $200 around here and they have to ship it off about 100 miles away to get it done for me.

I think I would just go with what that guy tells me and then find a shop (doesn't have to be a suzuki shop, I use the arctic cat shop around here, lol) to do the valves. Who ever spends the most time chatting with me and answering questions usually gets all my business.

 

My guy wanted the jug and head just to make sure the 2 surfaces would mate perfectly considering they would be under more pressure. matter of fact he wanted all 3 upper pieces, just in case.

 

3 pieces??? What's the 3rd? Who did your big bore?

Did you figure out those 9 black wires yet? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

I'm kinda confused? They want you to send your cylinder head, but they don't do any head work, yet his friend does? The cylinder head is the hunk of aluminum that contains the valves. The jug is the part that contains the cylinder.



Do they need the cylinder head for some reason? Or just the jug? I would have a local shop do the valve work instead of shipping it to them. Valve work is pretty remedial for a shop.



$329 is a decent deal. Resleeving alone costs about $200 around here and they have to ship it off about 100 miles away to get it done for me.



I think I would just go with what that guy tells me and then find a shop (doesn't have to be a suzuki shop, I use the arctic cat shop around here, lol) to do the valves. Who ever spends the most time chatting with me and answering questions usually gets all my business.</end quote></div>

Ok well thru my own ignorance I don't think I was asking the right questions or having him clarify enough. He didn't seem to knowledgable to me like maybe he was the guy who mostly answers the phone kinda thing. but when he said cylinder head I was thinking maybe I didn't understand the layout of the topend and didn't ask for clarification so as far as the very top (hunk of metal) that contains the valves, the second piece down (that has air fins) is where the cylinder is and where the piston slides up in down in as well as the 3rd piece (also has the air fins) which contains the bottom part of the cylinder and is the lower portion of where the piston slides up and down. I hope I have this right cause right now I know my mechanical ignorance is shining thru right now[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

So I think what I would send them for the big bore is both the air finned sections (2nd and 3rd topend pieces, is this reffered to as the jug?) and keep the very top piece containing the valves etc for myself, does this sound correct?

Going to call the big dealer around here and talk to there service department and see if they can do the valves, valve guides, seals and if so of course pricing and take it from there.

 

Ok update[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] I just talk to the big dealer service department and he said he didn't know much about the older atv's so he refered me to the local machinist they use and I called him. The machinist said I give him the "hunk of metal" top piece and send the cylinder "two lower air finned sections" to the big bore people. He said he would charge just a hair under $50 to do the valves, guides, and seals but could run a little higher if he has an ID problem with the valve guides (no fitting properly so he has to do a bit more work then usual) but doesn't think he will. He said proberly 2 days and he could have it done.

 

Another thing to is (I should have asked the machinist when I had him on the phone) should I also order new valve springs and have him replace those along with the valves, guides and seals? I'm not sure if that is standard practice when replacing this stuff and since the big bore will done is that even more reason to have the valve springs replaced to?

Just to get the valves, valve guides and the complete topend seal set w/ shipping was $120 with shipping and big bore kit will be $329 w/ shipping one way and the machinist to do the valve job $50, not including the damn repair manual w/ shipping I just got (and hasn't helped so far with anything) $29 w/ shipping. Aaack my wifes going to freaking kill me. That's over $500 not including everything I've already spent and I've only had this thing exactly 3 months tomorrow. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]