<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

3 pieces??? What's the 3rd? Who did your big bore?



Did you figure out those 9 black wires yet? [img][/img]</end quote></div>

1. part with sleeve 2. part with valves 3. part with rockers

Didn't even touch the bike yesterday... Jinxed myself hoping running water to the new fridge would take an hour or so, spent bout 8 hours under the house sweating copper and drilling holes, having a claustraphobic cuss-fest![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

Another thing to is (I should have asked the machinist when I had him on the phone) should I also order new valve springs and have him replace those along with the valves, guides and seals? I'm not sure if that is standard practice when replacing this stuff and since the big bore will done is that even more reason to have the valve springs replaced to?



Just to get the valves, valve guides and the complete topend seal set w/ shipping was $120 with shipping and big bore kit will be $329 w/ shipping one way and the machinist to do the valve job $50, not including the damn repair manual w/ shipping I just got (and hasn't helped so far with anything) $29 w/ shipping. Aaack my wifes going to freaking kill me. That's over $500 not including everything I've already spent and I've only had this thing exactly 3 months tomorrow. [IMG][/IMG]</end quote></div>

Welcome to my world!! Those that can't do it,,,,, PAY!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Malhombre $3000 (he says)
BigMc probably bout the same
Me, bout 2k, in reciepts, god knows how much it truly is.....
Stopped asking why, or how much a long time ago.. It's an illness I tell ya![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

So I am thinking the smart thing to do here is to amass all the necessary items and then take it/send everthing at once to the machinist and big bore guys. I answered my own question about the performance valve springs while checking the webcam web site and since I will be going with the stage 2 I would also get the performance valve springs. Btw I ended up moving my ct99 chain tensioner after paying more attention and was seeing what you described (JustRandy) with the hitting the frame deal. I drilled a hole in the frame and moved it up and back and changed the spacers on the roller to move it in to line up with the chain (will have new pictures soon).

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

So I am thinking the smart thing to do here is to amass all the necessary items and then take it/send everthing at once to the machinist and big bore guys. I answered my own question about the performance valve springs while checking the webcam web site and since I will be going with the stage 2 I would also get the performance valve springs. Btw I ended up moving my ct99 chain tensioner after paying more attention and was seeing what you described (JustRandy) with the hitting the frame deal. I drilled a hole in the frame and moved it up and back and changed the spacers on the roller to move it in to line up with the chain (will have new pictures soon).</end quote></div>

Going stage 2? When you send in your "core" send in the rockers to have them hard welded as well (whatever that means) or just do like BigMc and have extras on hand! He has been running for 2+, 3+? years on the same ones, no metal in oil yet........

Oh, BTW, keep a bunch of those carb jets, you have been collecting around, big bore is gonna change it all, AGAIN!

 

Don't know if I got it from this thread or elsewhere, but this is how my Dad taught me how to break in EVERYTHING I ever had with an engine..... He called it the ride it like you stole it break in... This guy seems to put a lil more thought into it, but same concept........ Let me know what ya all think....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Humm.................

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...genameZWDVWQQxZ17QQyZ8

 

went back to no big bore .020 over no smoking but havent rode cuz im goin to miss my power i had[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

wow, a lot of stuff to catch up on here.... I was only gone a few hrs, lol.

$500 aint too bad. I spent a little over half that for a 80 over job and no repair manual and no cam.

The rockers have to be hardwelded because the cam is hardwelded. They take a cam and weld metal on it and grind it down to the right shape. Instead of taking a big chuck of metal and grinding it down to look like a camshaft. Hardweld and billet. Hardweld is so hard it will eat away at the rockers unless they are the same hardness. And that will change your valve timing over time. (Effectively, your duration and lift will be decreasing each time you ride, maybe not a lot, but some.)

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 270quadsportguy

went back to no big bore .020 over no smoking but havent rode cuz im goin to miss my power i had[img][/img]</end quote></div>

why?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230

Don't know if I got it from this thread or elsewhere, but this is how my Dad taught me how to break in EVERYTHING I ever had with an engine..... He called it the ride it like you stole it break in... This guy seems to put a lil more thought into it, but same concept........ Let me know what ya all think....



http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</end quote></div>

I think the #1 thing to do is to keep the heat down. I agree with ride it like you stole it, but even when you steal it, you usually push it down the road a ways before you fire it up, lol. I always fire it up and rev it around 2000 rpm. That is slow enough to keep the heat down and not put a lot of stress on all the new bearings, but fast enough for the oil pump to pump a lot of oil everywhere it needs to be. Then when it feels kinda hot I shut it off and put a fan on it or spray gently with water. Once cold again I take it for a slow ride, basically trying to do the same thing as the first step, but riding it this time. Then cool down again. Then ride again, each time getting a little more hard on it (usually about a 10 step process). Then beat the snot out of it.

The #1 enemy of anything metal is heat. Wanna really screw up an engine??? Let a bearing inside get really hot. A new engine is gonna get hot because of all the metal coming off. Anytime you machine metal you create heat. Just like drilling metal. You don't drill thru a inch of metal stock in one go unless you have a water jet keeping the bit cool. You have to stop and dip the bit in water to cool it every so often or the bit gets really dull really fast. Once an engine has done all the grinding on itself and all the surfaces are smoothed to each other, you don't have to worry about the heat anymore.

Lugging is hard on the valve train.
Revving is hard on the piston n rod n crank.
Engine break in is basically metal machining, make sure your tools are sharp, oiled and cool.