85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#163
Hey guys hows it goin? I just got the ol' 230 running for the first time since Ive got it. I rebuilt it with a wiseco 1mm over 10.25:1 piston and a new rod kit. The motor smokes a little when I rev it up, is this normal on the new engine? How long does it take to break it in? I cannot ride this quad where I live so ive been letting it idle in my garage to break it in, but it gets really hot becuase of the lack of airflow I think. Also, how do I know how tight my timing chain should be? its new so its not stretched. AND one more thing.....the rockers, how do I set the rockers lash..... when they are not pushing down on the valves, I can wiggle them up and down a few thousands of an inch.... what is the gap between the rocker and vlalve supossed to be? any info on my preoblems would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks for your time. 230 PRIDE!
#164
IT IS ALIVE!!!!
All right adamsquadsport!!! Good to see you have the 230 back on its feet, no wait, its, wheels?.............or is it........Never mind. Great job.
Yeah. The smoke is a side affect of "Break In", you should not punish the motor for the first 5-10 hours of use. Try to keep the reaves down and varie the speed when riding.
The book states:
"No more than one third throttle and avoid any prolonged operation at any one speed up to 100 hours." And after that, only short burst up to 150 hours.
I dont know about you but that was near impossible for me.
You can use a low grade oil for break in because you need to chage it, and the filter, after only 10 hours of riding time. This is to remove any particles that might be left over from break in.
From experience, its takes longer for the moly top ring, that comes with the wiseco kit, to break in. But if you want your engine to last, it is a good idea to keep the hot-******* to a mininum for the first few rides anyway.
Oh, by the way, letting it idle may be the wrong thing to do. Varie the idle with a little throttle and dont let it idle to long.
Timing chain:
With the piston at TDC on the compresison stroke, losen the keeper nut and back out the adjustment screw one full turn. Then tighten it and the keeper nut back down.
Valves: .....you shure are a lot of trouble[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] But its a good thing.
At room temp, and TDC ( neither rocker arm should be down) on the compression stroke, the intake valve should have between .03 and .08 mm play or .001 to .003 in.
The exhaust should have .08 to .13 mm or .003 to .005 in. play.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
All right adamsquadsport!!! Good to see you have the 230 back on its feet, no wait, its, wheels?.............or is it........Never mind. Great job.
Yeah. The smoke is a side affect of "Break In", you should not punish the motor for the first 5-10 hours of use. Try to keep the reaves down and varie the speed when riding.
The book states:
"No more than one third throttle and avoid any prolonged operation at any one speed up to 100 hours." And after that, only short burst up to 150 hours.
I dont know about you but that was near impossible for me.
You can use a low grade oil for break in because you need to chage it, and the filter, after only 10 hours of riding time. This is to remove any particles that might be left over from break in.
From experience, its takes longer for the moly top ring, that comes with the wiseco kit, to break in. But if you want your engine to last, it is a good idea to keep the hot-******* to a mininum for the first few rides anyway.
Oh, by the way, letting it idle may be the wrong thing to do. Varie the idle with a little throttle and dont let it idle to long.
Timing chain:
With the piston at TDC on the compresison stroke, losen the keeper nut and back out the adjustment screw one full turn. Then tighten it and the keeper nut back down.
Valves: .....you shure are a lot of trouble[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] But its a good thing.
At room temp, and TDC ( neither rocker arm should be down) on the compression stroke, the intake valve should have between .03 and .08 mm play or .001 to .003 in.
The exhaust should have .08 to .13 mm or .003 to .005 in. play.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
#165
I have a 1989 LT250S same motor (except bore size) as the early 230 motors. I need to know were the timing marks are and the alignment to time it properly as they are the same as the 230 i figured you guys could help. My intake valve keeps loosing spec as i ride therfore looseing compresion does this mean i need new vlaves? Does anyone know if wiseco makes a piston for the lt250s? I know vince's carrys them for the 230 but what about the 250?
Any help to were i can get aftermarket parts would be great help thanks.
Any help to were i can get aftermarket parts would be great help thanks.
#167
quadsportlt250s
The timing marks are:
The lower mark is cast into the center case. You will see the pointed cast-in mark just left of the upper stator cover bolt casting.
The upper mark does not exist............................................. .................
Yea, I know, sucks dont it.
You will need to aligne the 2 index marks on the cam with the top surface of the cylinder head. The cam sprocket drive pin hole should be between 11 and 12:00 o'clock.
Of course, the piston must be at TDC for this to work.
If your loosing compression you might check the valve guides and seals for wear. Does the engine smoke at start up or burn oil?
Good luck.
The timing marks are:
The lower mark is cast into the center case. You will see the pointed cast-in mark just left of the upper stator cover bolt casting.
The upper mark does not exist............................................. .................
Yea, I know, sucks dont it.
You will need to aligne the 2 index marks on the cam with the top surface of the cylinder head. The cam sprocket drive pin hole should be between 11 and 12:00 o'clock.
Of course, the piston must be at TDC for this to work.
If your loosing compression you might check the valve guides and seals for wear. Does the engine smoke at start up or burn oil?
Good luck.
#168
Took it apart the other day, man that was hard with the engine in the frame. It did smoke a tiny bit at start up. I found out the intake valve was worn out and the valve seats are perfect. Now the bad news the intake valve guide is broke off. Where it broke is on the valve spring side flush with the surface. Its been like this for awhile because the surface is smooth where the break is, and valve seal was torn. Any pointers to help make it easier to put back together would help. Is the head hard to get off between the top frame tube and the cylinder studs on the 230s.
Are there any known weak points or common problems with these's engines. I heard if you wheelie them to long they seize because they dont get oil or something like that, is this true?
Any weak links on the whole atv? Same frame as early 230s
What is the stock jet size?
Are there any known weak points or common problems with these's engines. I heard if you wheelie them to long they seize because they dont get oil or something like that, is this true?
Any weak links on the whole atv? Same frame as early 230s
What is the stock jet size?
#169
quadsportlt250s
I have found that it is easier to pull the engine out of the frame, and work on it on the bench, rather than leave it in.
You wont have enough room to do a good job with the engine in the frame.
The only weak point I can think of is not a engine issue at all, but rather a side affect of the swing arm design. That is the stator cover ( and sometimes the center case )being damaged when the chain comes off.
Ahh, Its been a long time since ive heard this one. There was a rumer that the Q.S. would lock up during long wheelies. In all honesty I have only one explination for this one. The wheelbase of the 230 is such that it lends itself to being light in the nose. This makes the machine a great 2-wheeler. I have seen one "walked" for several hundred yards.
Riders will put their knees in the seat, feet in the rear grab bar and ride the machine on two wheels till they get tired, or meet up with a tree.
This is not good on any motor, much less one of such an old design.
Keep the whillie to under a half mile and you should be safe[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Stock jetting for the 250S is "airjet 110, main air jet 1.2mm, Jet needle 5HN31, Jet needle clip position is the 3rd groove, eedle jet 0-3, Pilot jet 17.5, and starter jet is a 50.
Float level is 20.8- to 22.8 mm. Stock idle is 1400 to 1600 rpm" per Clymer manuel.
FYI. I think the 250 has one more steel and fiber clutch disk than the 230 to compensate for the extra cubies.
I hope this helps.
I have found that it is easier to pull the engine out of the frame, and work on it on the bench, rather than leave it in.
You wont have enough room to do a good job with the engine in the frame.
The only weak point I can think of is not a engine issue at all, but rather a side affect of the swing arm design. That is the stator cover ( and sometimes the center case )being damaged when the chain comes off.
Ahh, Its been a long time since ive heard this one. There was a rumer that the Q.S. would lock up during long wheelies. In all honesty I have only one explination for this one. The wheelbase of the 230 is such that it lends itself to being light in the nose. This makes the machine a great 2-wheeler. I have seen one "walked" for several hundred yards.
Riders will put their knees in the seat, feet in the rear grab bar and ride the machine on two wheels till they get tired, or meet up with a tree.
This is not good on any motor, much less one of such an old design.
Keep the whillie to under a half mile and you should be safe[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Stock jetting for the 250S is "airjet 110, main air jet 1.2mm, Jet needle 5HN31, Jet needle clip position is the 3rd groove, eedle jet 0-3, Pilot jet 17.5, and starter jet is a 50.
Float level is 20.8- to 22.8 mm. Stock idle is 1400 to 1600 rpm" per Clymer manuel.
FYI. I think the 250 has one more steel and fiber clutch disk than the 230 to compensate for the extra cubies.
I hope this helps.
#170
Just got finished extending my swingarm. I am very happy with the way it handles the hills now. Can someone tell me what size the stock carb is I am wanting to order an aftermarket mikuni carb but I don't want to go to big. any help is great. I would keep my stock one but the choke is tore up and won't stay choked you have to hold it down.


