I just bought an '04 limited edition z400. The petcock never stops pushing gas, and there is no "OFF" position. It has prime and "ON". In the "ON" position it's supposed to require vacuum to make gas flow, but I have a garage floor and an enclosed trailer floor that beg to differ.

Our LT80 did the same thing. turns out a Banshee petcock fit perfectly on the same LT80 holes, PLUS, it had an "OFF" position. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any other petcocks (with "OFF") fit this model ?

Anyone added a simple in-line shut-off valve?

ALSO, anyone add an in-line fuel filter? ( I don't like adding too many fuel flow restrictions).

It has a yoshi pip, jet kit, K&N. It was jetted at 155 main, with the stock needle. I changed to the 150 jet with a K&N filer & powerlid, AND I just removed the snorkel restriction. FLoat bowl adjustment seemed way out ( i think that helps explain my puddles of gas in the garage and cargo trailer). ANYWAYS....I had a point here... OH YEAH... we ride a lot of trails and there'll be some water. With snorkel off and powerlid, am I just asking for water swamping problems?

With the airbox lid on & the snorkel cover on, it think it calls for a 128 main. IS this performance that noticeable compared to the basically open air box and snorkel cover and larger jet (150). ??

THANK YOU for your help!!

 

even if someone could answer the last Q...it'd save me a lot of time pulling apart the carb. I don't want to have the open airbox, snorkel cover removed and 150 jet, if it's only slightly better power. the downside is swamping the airbox with water, and more risk of sucking crud thru the filters.

IF the 128(?) jet and having everything enclosed is almost the same performance, I'd rather go that route.

oh yeah, Do you still run the standard spark plug (CR7E) with the jet, pipe and air filter mods?

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!

 

need a new petcock mine works good on my Z

 

deanz400 is right, the petcock on my '04 Z works good too. The factory Main jet is #130. It sounds like your carb float IS way out of adjustment. And if that ain't it, you need a carburetor gasket kit. If you ride through alot of water, you might wanna put that snorkel back on. But you could run an outerwears sock over a K&N air filter instead of the power lid, that sounds like a better. The power lid id definetly not for water.

 

I do have the outerwear sock on my K&N right now, PLUS the powerlid AND an outerwear cover over the powerlid. Am I just better off conceding there'll be more water riding and closing the box and snorkel off, and adjusting jetting accordingly?

The more I think about it, the more I start to lean to the closed system VS. wide open air. We're never gonna race, and never be able to crack this thing up to it's top speed, so why bother trying to get it to perform like a racer.

Once I close the airbox with a solid lid, should I remove the outerwear sock from the K&N?

 

Yes, remove the ow from the filter. The OW (outerwears) is only for open airbox configuration. I can tell you that before I bought my Z from my buddy, He had his G'friend on the back of the Z with him and me on my '04 kawi 650 Prarie and they were passing me up on my Prarie. My speedo said 91 mph and they were pulling away from me. And the Z is still stock! So if you have all them mods on yours, I'll bet your Z will do at least 120 MPH on an open road or trail. We were on a paved road at that time. Have you replaced your petcock yet?

 

I'm in BC (Canada). The local 'zuki dealer quoted me $170 for a petcock!! I see on-line that US retail is $70. That's only $75 Cdn. Where do our dealers get off? BANDITS! Anyways, I put a Motion Pro shut-off valve along the fuel line, and a fuel filter.

I posted a new thread here about fuel leakage. Basically, I took apart carb, cleaned everything ( I was surpirsed how much fine sand came out when I started blowing air through a few areas). My float was out of adjustment so I tried to re-adjust it, but I don't think I've EVER got that part right, ever, on any carb. My float needle also appeared fine, but kinda sticky in the seat. Put it back together and it probably leaks worse now than before!

I closed up air box and put snorkel back on, then jetted main to 124 as per the Dynojet instructions. This seems wierd considering stock 'zuki jet is 130! Anyways, it seems to run better now! AND, I should save on fuel! And like you said, they go fast enuf anyways, and I'll never ride anywhere I can get it past 60MPH.

 

I don't care what anybody says. A fuel filter is THE most important and most cost effective upgrade and probably the smartest anyone can put on a quad. I have one one each of my quads. The service manual for our '04's says the float height is 13.0+1.0mm (0.51+0.04 inches) and the stock setting for the main jet is a #130. O the parts that are sticky, try using some starter fluid or blowing it out.
If that doesn't work, you'll want to but a gasket kit for the carb.

 

yeah, that's the spec I tried adjusting to (13mm). Not sure i got it right since I still leak fuel. maybe my needle valve assembly is shot = leaking gas. I did blow out the valve assembly area, with the seat removed. I'll have to take a closer look. if it's coming out overflow tube, i don't think that'd be the gaskets, that'd seem to be either float level or needle/seat issue.

It seems to run great with the 124 jet, closed lid and snorkel cover in place, as per Dynojet's instructions. just seems odd that with a K&N filter and high performance exhaust, that they'd recommend a smaller jet than stock?! Under stock set up, I think dynojet's stage 1 recommendation is a 116 jet.