270quadsportguy i bought a 1988 GMC S1500 Jimmy 4x4 MPV That has over three hundred and three thousand mile's that was supposedly had the engine and drive train rebuilt when it had over two hundred thousand miles on it when it was rebuilt , the used car dealer said that the engine and drive train has about 87 thousand mile's on it and it had a set of custom cast aluminum wheel's that my brother told me the wheel's cost over $1100.00 ; and he said it had a new exhaust system that cost about $1100. new and the exhaust system was a duel stainless steel from the header's to where the tip's of the muffler's that come's out of the back bumper and that they were the FlowMasters with a life time Warrantee that cost $1100.00 to $1200.00 dollars for the pair ! I gave $1500.00 cash for the Jimmy and the car dealer told me he wound rebuild the brakes because they needed work and he would service the air conditioner i had to leave it over night and go back the next day at noon time he said it would be ready to go ! The car lot has a full service garage behind the car lot where they don't just fix up old used car's that he sell's , but that they work on any car or truck that people bring in to fix vehicle's and not just the car's they sold to people who bought from them ! He told me that if i had or knew someone who need's work done for their vehicle's to send them his way , he told me that the guy's that work in the shop are factory trained and certified technition's ; not just some shade tree machanic's ! The owner said that they garrantee their work for 90 day's at no extra charge , or they offered 2 and 3 year warranty my spelling is bad but i hope you can get what i'm typing ; on the Jimmy i had to take it back four time's before they got the brakes right ! and the air would work for a couple day's and i took it back each time , untill he finanlly gave up on the air conditioner they serviced it 4 time's and it just kept leaking the freon ; and he said he couldn't rebuild the Whole system that he said might cost $500 to $600 to replace the whole work's ! I had to replace both iner and outer tie rods and the idler arm and replace the CV boot's because one iner and one outer boot had a tear and would need to be replaced , i bought all new part's to repair it myself i put the outer tie rods and the idler arm on already ; the iner tie rods were good but before i take it to a tire center for the front end alinement i'm going to put both of the iner tie rods and i bought 2 new tie rod adjuster sleeves so the front end will be like new ! I'm going to remove all four CV boot's and use some grease desolving clearner called Berryman Chem Dip in one of those rechargeable aluminum jerrican's to clean out the old grease from the CV joints then all i will have to do is cut the old boot's and remove the band's and put the new boot's on they're the spilt type boot's with the button type snaps and the epoxy glue that seal's them like the old slip on slip off type so i won't have to take anything apart to install the new one's ! And i may have to buy the banding tool or barrow one from auto zone from their lend a tool program where you put up a deposit for the tool and they refund the money when you take the tool back ! And the most important thing of all i've all ready got the smoking stopped , the Seafoam freed up the ring's they were sticking from the carbon deposit's inside the combustion chamber ; but the Seafoam cleaned out all the carbon build up and gunk from the valves this was my worst fear and it has been taken care of with just one 12 oz can of Seafoam that cost me $5.99 plus tax at my local O'Reillys Auto parts Store ; Thank God for small Miracle's ! ...................................

 

Guys-

New question; I had split the cases on the 230 and used Hondabond (was told Yamabond is no longer available) on the case halves.
Got her all back together (crank rebuilt by Vince at Mr. Crankshaft, fresh .20 overbore and piston (Suzuki piston) and adjusted the valves. Runs GREAT, no smoke, etc.
Bummer right now is she's leaking some oil out the case seal. I really don't want to tear it completely down again.

Any suggestions on what to use to seal this leak?? Thanks. TJ

 

TJ there are plenty of product's out there on the market that claim to stop small oil leake's like the one you're talking about , but i don't know how safe they are to use on a quad ; especially if you have the wet sump that use the same oil to lube the engine , transmission and clutch ! Not to mention the oilpump /unless it has the slinger type system and oil sender unit to the oil filter and return line's ! But my 1988 GMC S1500 jimmy 4x4 MPV that the used car dealer i bought it from told me that the guy who traded in the jimmy on a 2005 Dodge Ram Dooley told him that it had only about 87 thousand miles on it since the engine and drive train was totally rebuilt , after i drove it about 75 miles it started blowing a small cloud of wite smoke with just a light tint of blue in the smoke when you had to stop traffic light's or stop sign's ; if i had to sit over 30 to 60 second's tlll the light changed or it was clear to go ! After two or three week's the engine jump time and it cost me over 350 in part's , new strater with reduction gear $119.00 + tax and core deposit , new flywheel $34.98 + Tax a gasket set $14.95 + tax ; and i payed $10.00 to a friend for setting the timing with his timing light ! Because my old timing light had blown the Zenon bulb , and after all that it stll did the smoking thing again when the engine warmed up to the operrating temp. just as before ; But i had to let it sit up about six months while i saved for part's ! And i had a full tank of gas at the time , and to keep the gas from going bad i put a full 12oz can of Seafoam in the tank ! After driving it till i used over half tank of gas and refilled the tank again , and driving about 50 to 60 miles it suddenly stopped smoking ; and i've been driving it for the past 3 month's and still no smoke ! And the only thing that i can think of that i did to the engine before and after doing the above thing's to the engine and one other thing i forgot was a new distributor module and a used distributor , was the Seafoam ! And another thing i forgot to mention from the start , was that the engine didn't smoke a bit when you first started the engine ; but only untill it got warmed up to the normal operating temps. ! So tor myself , cause of the smoking ! I knew before consulting with anyone else that if it had been the valve's , it would've smoked on start up ; and stopped smoking after the oil that had seeped past the valve seals ino the cylinder or cylindersi it would've stopped smoking after the oil burned off from inside the cylinder ! And if it had been worn or broken rings it would've smoked contantly the longer it was driven , even at normal operational temps. ! So as far as myself , i knew it had to be the seafoam that stopped the smoke ; And it has continued to run smoke free now for over 3 months ! But i do remember that when the smoking started again , it was smoking alot worse than it had after all the work i did to it ; and it had to be from burning all the carbon that was built up in the combustion chamber ! ....................

 

Williebee-

Thanks for the input, I'm still pondering what the heck to try. I'm a little scared of putting any of those additives into the oil. I am considering draining the oil, standing the quad up for a few days on the grab bar (or hang it from the ceiling) to let the oil drip away from the mating surfaces and apply GOOP to the outside/bottom of the case halves. Ever try that? (I usually don't do this type of "rigging" but since the skid plate will cover it up, nobody will know it but me!!!!)
Thanks-TJ

 

tj that means that u need a new gasket in it so you will have to replace that... my froeind has one of there thay rip

 

put a lil of that honda bond where ur leak is after u clean it real good. u should be fine

 

Hey 270quadsportguy have you already torn itno the engine to check the damage on yor qad, are did you do a compression test ? If you haven't you might be able to bore and sleeve your engine and go back to the original piston size ! ........

 

TJ i redited this reply about the engine restorer because i haven't tried the stull so i don't know if it works or not and i'm going to remove any reference of the stuff from the other posts also for the same reason so good luck with your quad ! But the way you said about drainning your oil and hanging it up to get the oil away from the spot thats leaking in your crankcase sound's like it might work ! But there is another way to get the oil out and the crankcase dried out alot faster than the way you were talking about , you could remone you gas tank , carb , oil filter,airbox,sparkplug, valve access covers ; remove oil plug drain the old oil ; then put the oil plug back in oil plug hole ! Then get about 2 gallon's of acetane from home depot or lowes or any place that you can find it ! Then start pouring in the acetane untill it atart's coming out the of the engine , then let it sit over night giving it time to soakup all the old dirty oil in the crankcase ; The the next day remove the oil drainplug and let it drain into one of those big drain pans , after it has all drained you could funnel it back into the gallon can's the acetane came in ; and pour it back though the carankcase afew more times with the oil plug out this time ! Just keep pouring it through selveral more times untill you get all the oil from inside the engine crankcase flushed good ; then let it dry again over night with the oil drain plug out ! The next day it should be completely dry so you can do whatever you deside to use to seal the crankcase where it was leaking and at the same time you get all the dirt and any metal filing that maybe in your engine's crankcase as well , Acetane is a very well known drying agent i've used it to dry out gas tanks fast with this stuff ; And then after you get your leak in the crankcase sealed you can put the quad back together and put about a table spoon of oil in the spark plug hole to lube the cylinder ; Piston's , ring's and this will lube this part of the engine before you start the engine back up ! And you can also pour or funnel some oil into the top end by way of the valve access plug hole's , So when you restart the engine everythiing will be prelubed so you won't be starting the engine without the topend and crankcase being lubed and won't be dry of oil/ lubricant on restart ; and it won't be a rough start up of the engine ! All you have to do is deside what you want to try as a sealant for the crankcase either ! I hope this help's with your getting your quad going without having to tear it down and splitting the case again , there are other thing's to use to seal the case with than the Goop compound you were talking about ; there was a compound that you could get at almost any auto parts stores it came in bottles and some in just rolled uptube's that are wrapped up in paperrap that was a ready to use epoxy compound's that you would only have to break off a peice and start kneading it together with your finger's and it would turn to steel when it dry's and it dry's in just a minute or so ! There was a parts store near where i live that is an O'Reillys Part Store now that has the stuff , the first time i saw it was when i stopped in one day and i saw this ball shaped glob that was flat on the bottom and there was a bolt screwed into it ; and a guy inline in front of me asked the parts guy what's that ? The parts guy said don't you know what this is ? He told him i've never seen it before and ask what's it for ? The Parts guy said watch this and he picked it up and unscrewed the bolt and then he held it out for us to see a set of perfect thread's and then he got a wrence from under the counter and tightened the bolt as tight as he could then he handed the glob to the customer and told him to see if he could unscrew it ! Then guy tried to unscrew the bolt but he couldn't get it to budge with his finger's , the part's guy handed the wrench to the customer and with the wrench he unscrewed the bolt ; the customer said this is a gag and ask where did you get it ! The parts guy got a little small clear plastic tube that was on the counter and opened it up and got what looked like a round stick of grey Clay that had a black streak running through it , and he tore off a peice and got another bolt ; then he started kneading/squeezing it togeter and screwed the bolt into this round glob of Clay like dough ! Then he set it on the counter and said wait a minute , While we were waiting the parts guy rang up a sales for another customer ; as soon as he was finished he picked up the glob by the bolt head and said try it again ! This time i got it and turned the bolt out of the glob and i tried to squeeze it together , but it was as hard as a rock and i could see the perfect set of threads inside of thi glob ; so i tried to screw the bolt back into the threads and it screwed right in snug and tight ! But when i tried to unscrew it from the glob i couldn't turn it ; it was stuck and the other guy said let me try it ! And he couldn't get it to turn either , i picked up the wrench that was on the counter and screwed it right out ! The parts guy told us it could be ued to repair stripped threads in a bolt hole and a whole lot more , but the price was $9.89 for the small tube ; since then i've seen it used in all kind of material ! From wood , glass , plastic and all kind's of metal ; my brother even broke one of the bolt hole's of the gooseneck on an old GMC pickup he was putting in a new thermastat in at the time ! He over tightened the bolt and one of the metal end's of the bolt hole's broke off the gooseneck , that bolts to the engine block where the thermastadt goes ; and the top Radiator hose goes to the goose neck ! We went to the parts store to see if they had a new one , and the parts guy's who was the manager said i can fix that ; he layed the goose neck on the counter and got a tube of the glob epoxy compound that was already opened and tore off a peice and started keanding it together and put the it on the broken goose neck ! He used so much on it the hole was filled in one solid peice , my brother ask him how was he going to be able to get the bolt back in where the hole was ; he told Dan don't worry be happy ! Dan said you better worry about being happy , or you will be very unhappy ; when you have to replace the part you screwed up ! after about 5 or 6 minutes Eddy the parts manager got a drill out from under the counter and drilled a hole the same size as the old one was , And he stuck the bolt inside the hole ; then he held it out and said how does that look to you ; Dan said it look's good but will it stay together when i start tighting it down ! Eddy the part's manager said if it doesn't hold i'll give you my truck ! And he had a nice Chevy S10 Tahoe Shortbed pick up truck with a 350 Turbo V8 short block engine , that he had a off body restoration done on it less tan a month before ; and he told Dad that if he tried to bust it off with a hammer you will get a suprice ! Because that glob of stuff was stronger than the metal that the Gooseneck/waterjacket was made of ! And it would brake in another place before the glob would , and he was right that suff was tuff ; this stuff is an epoxy like compound and may be the same goop epoxy stuff you were talking about using on the crankcase leak ! So i hope this help's you out TJ this is about the only thing i can think of , that might work with out having to do a complete tear down ; and splitting the case again !.......................

 

TJ i looked at the Engine Restore i bought and it doesn't have a leak agent in it so it wouldn't stop you engine from leaking problem ayway , it's made by automotive Restore Produscts the same copany that make the radiator restore ; It;s a Engine Restorer & Lubricant witl CSL ! And it's an 8 cylinder Formula * Rstore Compression * Restore Horsepower* Reduse Oil Consumption* Restore Engine Life that you add ot oil ! It come's in a in a can that has's NET 19 FL. OZ. ( 561mL. ) and it is very expensivee ! The 8 cylinder Formula has enough to Resore 8 one clylinder engine's , The direction's on the can states that in normal driving friction and wear cut scratches in the metal surfaces inside every cars engine. This causes compression and power loss and increases oil consumtion as cars get older. engines restorer & Lubricant with CSL fills these scratches and improves th seat between piston rings and the cylinder walls. This means better compression and more balanced compression across all cylinders. Independent road tests prove Restore brings power back to near original levels. If your car has over 40.000 miles , we GUARANTEE you will feel the increase in compression and power within 500 miles , or we will give your money back. RESTORE is compatible with all motor oils and is effective in all diesel engines. For information about RESTORE , the indepenent tests , and RESTORE'S guarantee , call or write RESTORE ,Inc , P.O. Box 11898 6 , FL. Lauderdale , FL 33339 Directions For Using With 8 CYLINDER FORMULA 1. Shake Well Before Using 2. Add 1 can of ENGINE RESTORER to your oil without delay. 3. Add 1 can of ENGINE RESOTORER at every oil change. DO NOT USE ENGINE RESTORER IN 2CYCLE ENGINES OR WHERE OIL AND GAS MIXTURES ARE REQUIRED CAUTION : DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Distributed By RESTORE,INC. Ft. Lauderdale , FL.33306 CopyRight 1983 , 1986 and 1988 RESTORE INC. Made IN U.S.A. This product if it's as good as the Radiator Restore would would be good in Worn /High milage Car's , Truck's and Morn/High Mileage ATV's as well when mixed right ! But TJ i wouldn't use it in a rebuilt motor of any kind ,But the way you said about drainning your oil and hanging it up to get the oil away from the spot in your crankcase sound's like it might work ! But there is another way to get the oil out alot faster than the way you were talking about , you could remone you gas tank , carb , oil filter,airbox,sparkplug, valve access covers ; remove oil plug drain the old oil ; then put the oil plug back in oil plug hole ! Then get about 2 gallon's of acetane from home depot or lowes or any place that you can find it, Then start pouring in the acetane untill it atart's coming out the of the engine ; then let it sit over night giving it time to soakup all the old dirty oil in the crankcase ! The the next day remove the oil drainplug and let it drain into one of those big drain pans , after it has all drained you could funnel it back into the gallon can's the acetane came in ; and pour in back though the carankcase afew more times with the oil plug out this time ! Just keep pouring it through selveral more times untill you get all the oil from inside the engine crankcase flushed good , then let it dryagain over night with the oil drain plug out ; the next day it should be completely dry so you can do whatevr you deside to use to seal the crankcase where it was leaking and at the same time you get all the dirt from your engine as well ! Acetane is a very well known drying agent i've used it to dry out gas tnak fast with this stuff . and then after you get your leak in the crankcase sealed you can put the quad back together and put about a table spoon of oil in the spark plug hole to plube the cylinder , piston'c , ring's this will lube this part og the engine before you start the engine back up ; and you can also pour or funnel some oil into the top end by way of the valve access plug hole's ! So when you restart the engine everythink will be prelubed so you won't be starting the engine without the topend and crankcase won't be dry of oil/ lubricant on restart , and it won't be a rough start up of the engine ; all you have to do is deside what you want to try as a sealant for the crankcase cealer ! I hope this help's with your getting your quad going with out having tearing it down and splitting the case again , ther are other thing's to use to seal the case with than the Goop you were talking about ; there was a compoung that you could get at almost any auto parts stores it came in bottles and some in just rolled tube's wrapped in paperrap that was really two compounds that you would only have to to brake off a peice and start kneaded it together with your finger's and it would turn to steel ! Their was a parts store near where i lived taht is a O'Reillys Part Store now that has the stuff , the first time i saw it was when i stopped in one day and saw this ball shaped glob that was flat on the bottom and there was a bolt screwed into it ; and a guy inline in front of me asked the parts guy what is that ? The parts guy said don't you knowwhat it is ? He told him i've never seen it before and ask what's it for? Parts guy said watch this and he picked it up and held it out for us to look at , then he started screwing the bolt out of it ; when he had removed the bolt he showed us the glob and you could see perfect thread's in the ball of glob ! He handed it to the cutomer and said said you try it and he screwed the bolt back in as far as it would go , then he tried to unscrew it and it wouldn't turn the guy behind the counter got out a little wrench and put it on the blot and unscrewed it again ! The customer said this is a joke ,and ask where did you get it , the sales guy got a little small clear plastic tube that was on the counter and opened it up and got what lookedround grey stick that had a black streak running through it and tore off a peice off and got another bolt , then he started keanding/squeezing it togeter and screwed the bolt into this clay like dough ; then he set it on the counter and said wait a minute ! While we were waiting the guy behind the counter rang up a sales for another customer , as soon as he was finished he picked up the glob by the bolt head and said try it again ; this time i got it and turned the bolt out of the glob and i tried to squeeze it together ! It was as hard as a rock and i could see the perfect threads inside of thi glob , so i tried to screw the bolt back into the threads it screwed right snug and tight ; but when i tried to unscrew it from the glob i couldn't turn it ; it was stuck the other guy said let me try it and he couldn't get it to turn either ! I picked up the wrench that was on the counter and screwed it right out ! The employee told us it could be ued to repair stripped threads in a bolt hole and a whole lot more , but the price was $9.89 for the small tube ; since then i've seen it used everyking of material from wood , glass , plastic and all kind's of metal ! My brother even broke one of the hole's in the gooseneck on an old GMC pickup he was putting in a new thermastadt he over tightened the blot and one of the bolt hole's in the gooseneck that bolts to the engine block where the thermastadt and the top Radiator hose goes to the goose neck ; he we went to the parts store to see if they had a new one ! The guy who was the manager said i can fix that , he layed the goose neck on the counter and got a tube of the glob that was already opened and tore off a peice and started keanding it together and put the it on the broken goose neck ; he use so much on it the hole was filled in one solid peice ! Mu brother ask him how was he going to be able to get the bolt back in where the hole was , he told Dan don't worry be happy ; Dan said you better worry or you will be very unhappy ! After about 5 or 6 minutes Eddy the parts manager got a drill out from under the counter and drilled a hole the same size as the old one was , and he stuck the bolt inside the hole ; and held it out ; and said how does that look to you ! Dan said it look's good but will it stay together when i start tighting it down , Eddy said if it doesn't hold i'll give you my truck ; a nice Chevy S10 Tahoe Shortbed wuth a 350 Turbo that he had a off body restoration done on it less tan a month before and he told Dad that if he tried to bust it off with a hammer you will get a suprice ! Because that gob was stronger than the metal that the Gooseneck/waterjacket was made of and it would brake in another place before the gob would , and he was right that suff was tuff ! Hope this help's you TJ !.......................