Blowin Oil
#11
Blowin Oil
The valve seals are the little rubber things that go over the valve stem right before you install the valve springs. They should come in the gasket kit.
The intake valve is probably beyond lapping at this point. It may really need a new valve (if it has a lip on the sealing surface of the valve - it should be replaced). But if you dont care just lap it if you want and put it back. Eventually it will run pretty crappy. Just keep the valves adjusted to .001-.003 for the intake and .003-.005 for the exhaust.
Once you take the piston out and monkey with the rings, they will never seat again unless you hone the bore. If you hone the bore, you may need oversize rings and/or piston. The best thing to do if you only want to change the oil rings is raise the jug off the piston just enough to get the oil rings off and replaced. Then slide the jug back down... All w/o removing the top rings from the bore. That way you dont need to worry about reseating the rings.
Keep in mind this is not the "right" way of doing things, but its the backwoods hillbilly redneck sorta way of gettin it to run on the cheap.
There are a few things to watch out for. One is to keep track of all the head-stud nuts when you take the head off. 2 of them have copper washers and you HAVE to put them back where they came from and you really should use RTV on them too or it will leak oil something fierce. Another thing to watch out for is not to get RTV on the cam bearings when you install the vavle cover. Use only a very very very thin amount of RTV - especially around the cam bearing. When you tighten down the cover the RTV will squeeze out on the bearing and score the h3ll outta it. Don't foget to change the oil and the filter. The filter is $5 and probably hasn't been changed in 20yrs. Never overtighten the spark plug or the oil drain bolt. They only need a good snugging. Other than that, if you understand enough to know about lapping valves, seems like you should have enough to know everything else to do. Tighten the head studs down to 15-18 ft-lbs.
The intake valve is probably beyond lapping at this point. It may really need a new valve (if it has a lip on the sealing surface of the valve - it should be replaced). But if you dont care just lap it if you want and put it back. Eventually it will run pretty crappy. Just keep the valves adjusted to .001-.003 for the intake and .003-.005 for the exhaust.
Once you take the piston out and monkey with the rings, they will never seat again unless you hone the bore. If you hone the bore, you may need oversize rings and/or piston. The best thing to do if you only want to change the oil rings is raise the jug off the piston just enough to get the oil rings off and replaced. Then slide the jug back down... All w/o removing the top rings from the bore. That way you dont need to worry about reseating the rings.
Keep in mind this is not the "right" way of doing things, but its the backwoods hillbilly redneck sorta way of gettin it to run on the cheap.
There are a few things to watch out for. One is to keep track of all the head-stud nuts when you take the head off. 2 of them have copper washers and you HAVE to put them back where they came from and you really should use RTV on them too or it will leak oil something fierce. Another thing to watch out for is not to get RTV on the cam bearings when you install the vavle cover. Use only a very very very thin amount of RTV - especially around the cam bearing. When you tighten down the cover the RTV will squeeze out on the bearing and score the h3ll outta it. Don't foget to change the oil and the filter. The filter is $5 and probably hasn't been changed in 20yrs. Never overtighten the spark plug or the oil drain bolt. They only need a good snugging. Other than that, if you understand enough to know about lapping valves, seems like you should have enough to know everything else to do. Tighten the head studs down to 15-18 ft-lbs.
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jgreerberube
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