Carb Setting on a 230 S
#1
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I have owned my 1987 Quadsport 230S since new and just last week decided to get it out and get it running again. I bought a carb rebuild kit and cleaned the carb all out and put it back together but i cant seem to get the adjustments right on it to make it idle and run ok with out stumbling a bit. Any help on this would be great. Also the clutch is very hard to pull in, is there any way to lube it or adjust it?
Thanks in advance.
Andy
Thanks in advance.
Andy
#2
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Wow! Since new? Cool! Don't ever sell it!
What brand was the carb rebuild kit? Did it come with a new needle? Were all the jets the same size as the ones you took out? Did you replace the needle jet (the hole the needle goes in)? How does your air filter look?
Take the clutch cable off and hang it from a vise or something. Spray penetrating fluid down it and slide the cable back n forth until the fluid comes out the other end. Once you have the cable free of rust n that, use regular motor oil in the same way to lube it up. This process could take a little time, but it should work in the end as long as your cable is not frayed inside.
What brand was the carb rebuild kit? Did it come with a new needle? Were all the jets the same size as the ones you took out? Did you replace the needle jet (the hole the needle goes in)? How does your air filter look?
Take the clutch cable off and hang it from a vise or something. Spray penetrating fluid down it and slide the cable back n forth until the fluid comes out the other end. Once you have the cable free of rust n that, use regular motor oil in the same way to lube it up. This process could take a little time, but it should work in the end as long as your cable is not frayed inside.
#3
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Yea, my grandfather bought it for me in early 87 i believe. I had a 85 125 suzuki before that and the 230S was like a cadillac in comparison with ride and handling.
The carb kit i got was just a rebuild kit from a suzuki dealer, it was a Moose brand. As far as i know everything was just stock sizes. No i didnt replace the needle jet, i can take it back apart and do it. It looked ok but assume thats part of my troubles?
I will do that to my cable, i think its just gummy inside the cable and thats my problems. Thanks for telling me how to lube it im sure it will help alot.
Andy
The carb kit i got was just a rebuild kit from a suzuki dealer, it was a Moose brand. As far as i know everything was just stock sizes. No i didnt replace the needle jet, i can take it back apart and do it. It looked ok but assume thats part of my troubles?
I will do that to my cable, i think its just gummy inside the cable and thats my problems. Thanks for telling me how to lube it im sure it will help alot.
Andy
#4
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The needle jet wears out by the needle constantly vibrating against it. Especially, if you notice a worn spot on your needle. The hole gets egg shaped and lets more gas thru than stock. You also have to be sure the jets are the same size.
The needle jet can be a pain to get out. You have to use a drift punch and tap it out. The new one will go into place as you tighten the main jet holder down.
Your air filter has to be like stock if you are using stock carb parts. Sometimes the air filter comes loose or gets holes in it over the course of 20 yrs.
The needle jet can be a pain to get out. You have to use a drift punch and tap it out. The new one will go into place as you tighten the main jet holder down.
Your air filter has to be like stock if you are using stock carb parts. Sometimes the air filter comes loose or gets holes in it over the course of 20 yrs.
#5
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Ok i will go ahead and change out both parts, i have them in the kit for it all. My airfliter actually had almost all just went to poweder as soon as i touched it. I am glad i thought to look before i started the bike becasue it would of filled the carb full of it all. Can i just use any type of foam to put back around the metal mesh part or do i need to buy an actual filter foam for it? Sorry for all the stupid questions.
Andy
Andy
#6
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What kind of foam you use depends on your carb tuning abilities. The idea is to put everything back like stock, so it will run like stock. If you put a less or more restrictive air filter on, you will need to adjust the carb accordingly. Once you take the leap from a stock filter to something else, you may as well get the best flowing filter out there,,, K&N,,, but it costs $40. KN is paper, not foam, and it flows a lot better than foam. All other foam filters are about the same and you can probably get one online for about $10. Even taking the air box lid off or having a hole in the air box will change the way it runs and how the carb needs to be tuned.
Now I'm curious how old the gas is in the gas tank? If the filter goes "poof" when you touch it, that gas HAS to be OLD.
You should probably change out the oil too before you do too much riding. Use only grade F or G and not the new stuff or else you'll notice the clutch slipping a bit. That old oil can be a little tough to find. Walmart has Accel brand oil 10w-40 grade F for $1.24 a qt. It says for cars before 1988 on the bottle. The dealer can charge $5 a qt! There is an oil filter too on the right lower side of the engine. It should cost about 5 bucks from the dealer. I don't know if its ever been changed, but it probably should be. And while you're at the dealer, grab a NGK D7EA spark plug just to have on hand in case there is trouble. Good to be able to rule out something simple like a spark plug. It should only cost a couple bucks.
Now I'm curious how old the gas is in the gas tank? If the filter goes "poof" when you touch it, that gas HAS to be OLD.
You should probably change out the oil too before you do too much riding. Use only grade F or G and not the new stuff or else you'll notice the clutch slipping a bit. That old oil can be a little tough to find. Walmart has Accel brand oil 10w-40 grade F for $1.24 a qt. It says for cars before 1988 on the bottle. The dealer can charge $5 a qt! There is an oil filter too on the right lower side of the engine. It should cost about 5 bucks from the dealer. I don't know if its ever been changed, but it probably should be. And while you're at the dealer, grab a NGK D7EA spark plug just to have on hand in case there is trouble. Good to be able to rule out something simple like a spark plug. It should only cost a couple bucks.
#7
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I wish i had talked to u about a week ago...i got my carb kit and the dealer said i had to use special oil cause of the clutch and i had to buy the expense dealership oil. Live and learn i guess.
Yes my foam filter was just basicly powder when i touched it. It was foam on outside and a metal inner frame work. Yea the gas was old in it.
I cleaned all the old fuel out of the tank and lines and carb and i soaked the carb in carb cleaner before putting it back together.
Yes my foam filter was just basicly powder when i touched it. It was foam on outside and a metal inner frame work. Yea the gas was old in it.
I cleaned all the old fuel out of the tank and lines and carb and i soaked the carb in carb cleaner before putting it back together.
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Ebay. Pretty expensive new. I got a good deal http://www.maier-mfg.com/ they were on there closeout page
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