Hello everyone, just bought a used 2005 suzuki LT80 last week. The thing is mint and looks like it had very little time on it. It had been sitting for a while and so when I got it, it was hard to start. I cleanded the air filter, replaced the plug, and took the carb apart and cleaned it. I also checked the reeds to make sure they weren't cracked and they were fine. I am aware of the prime valve on the tank and use that each time to start it. Well, I drained the tank and noticed some bad gas. Replaced it with 93 octane. Still, is hard to start. I removed the plug and it is dry. Once it is running it's ok but today it died.
I ran it around as it started to die, I pulled the choke and it came back. I noticed a cap off on one black line off the carb and the oil tank mix. Look at these pics and tell me if the previous owner bypassed the oil tank?


He never told me and so now I did a compression test and am only getting 90 psi. Can someone direct me on the oil tank issue and why they would do that. Also notice the two gold screws with a black cover? It's almost like the cover is missing?


Anyway, looks like I messed up and didn't do my homework on this so now I am gonna need a top half. How much for a rebuild kit? Thanks guys in advance. It is weird why I am not getting gas to the plug either....

 

This is the picture with the cover I think is missing....

 

Greets.

The cover with the gold screws is totally stock. Nothing has been changed there.
The previous owner has cut the autolube circuit and unless you're using pre-mix, your motor isn't getting any oil!
If it's been running without oil, then it's likely to have damaged the cylinder and you'll need a re-bore, rings and gasket.
The compression is low. They should run at about 130psi I think. Check with LT-80 (User on here) he's the daddy.

 

Yeah, I just answered my own question when I took the head off. Here is what I found... Sun of a bitch. Any idea where I can get a new piston bore and rings from?




LT80 as you can see, I could use your help.

 

Daquadfathers numbers are correct (and thanks daquadfather).
Call your Zuki dealer and get a .5 over piston/ring kit (SUZUKI NOT WISECO!!), new piston pin, pin brg, top and base gaskets. Surely they can bore or know who bores cylinders.
You should spin the motor to see if there is any grinding going on from no oil. The crankshaft brgs may have got damaged, but there is a good chance that they are fine.
FYI: a good synthetic oil mixed at 32:1 is a good idea. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I'll probably get blasted for this, but why are you guys so down on the stock oil injection system? Unless you are building a pure race quad, it works fine,even for mildly modded motors. I bought a used 87 LT80 years back for my son,beat to hell, cleaned it up, put in a .020 over WISECO (also don't know what you have against that, either), milled the reed cage, put on a pipe, rejetted, and it ran flawlessy for several years with my boy revving the K-rap out of it on long trails, big hills, sand pits, you name it. I sold it to a friend when my son outgrew it, it was run for a couple more years, sold, and as far as I know, still running today. All with stock oil injection, Wiseco piston and all. Keep the oil tank clean, use a good quality oil (I used Yamaha 2-S), and it should be fine. If a quad that old and beat on can use it, why not the newer ones?

 

99.9% of the injector pumps will run forever. The other .1% buy a piston/bore. For a non modded motor, going to pre-mix is not ness at all. For modded motor I think it's a must. Some rookies think it's a ""modification""..Gotta be 3hp right?? j/k LOL
As for the Wiseco, good pistons if you have time for a meticulous break in. And again, for a non modded low rpm motor, prolly not a big deal. Modded, we have to drill holes below the ring gaps to help drag some oil up onto the cylinder. A stock piston you set the clearance at .0025 the wiseco is set at .0035 min. They swell like my belly on a drunk night. <G> I think the stock pistons still wear longer with virtually no break in, but that's just my opinion.
No blast from me 95wolv, you've always been a intelligent fella. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Thanks guys for the info. Seems to be around Charlotte, NC it's hard to get a machine shop to bore the cylinder wall out. The dealer says they replace it, not bore it so that cost way too much. I ended up ordering a complete set from the guy on ebay as a complete kit. It's not oem so I will break it in right to save any future issues. I will keep you guys up to date when I install it next week. Thanks again!