So I am not engine savy by any means. I have noticed a little bit of oil markings around this round rubber plug (on the left side of cylinder head or maybe it's the valves). I have been having some trouble starting the 95 KQ, but once started, no problems whatsoever. I was wondering, from reading, is it possible that my valves might be gunked up with oil? Would this cause the starting problem? What would happen if I pulled that plug? Anyway, I was getting ready to do an oil/filter change and was wondering if this plug would be of some significance during that process. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

No, don't pull that plug. That's just there to line up the cam with the crank. Your problem is the intake valve is worn out and the lash is gone. You need to loosen up the intake valve lash and you should be riding in no time! But keep an eye on it because it will tighten back up quickly. Eventually, you'll need a new intake valve or it will pull right thru the head!

This is what your valve probably looks like:

 

Yeah, your probably right. So is loosening that valve something you think I could take on? Remember, I am not engine savy at all. Would I need special tools or anything like that? Hmmm, yeah, cause it starts and runs great, just takes about twenty minutes of cranking initially and most of the time I end up loosing battery and having to use my booster. Is it an expensive fix at a shop that you know of? Thanks for your help!!

 

The shop will probably rip you off. Its an easy job if you can get to the valve. To do the actual adjustment, you'll need a 10mm wrench and a small flat screwdriver. That's it and it takes 2 seconds. To get everything off the quad so you can get to the valve is another story.

Go here and take a look at #15 http://www.alpha-sports.com/satv/1995/LTF4WDX/14.htm

You'll want to remove that to access the valve adjuster.

There should be a little plug on the left side of the engine you can take out with a large flat screwdriver. Remove the plug and turn the engine to line up the mark on the flywheel. This indicates TDC on the compression stroke.

If there is no plug, you can take out the spark plug and use a long screwdriver to find the highest point the piston goes. After you've found that point and you turn the engine a little more, if the intake valve moves, you're at the top of the exhaust stroke and will need to turn the engine one more time to get TDC on the compression stroke.

Once you're satisfied you have the engine close to TDC on the compression stroke, you can now set the valve. Loosen the 10mm locknut and use the small flat screwdriver to back the adjuster out a little bit and then tighten the nut while holding the screw firm. Set it so there is a wee bit of play. Given the amount of wear on the valve, I don't think you need to be very technical about it and try to work a feeler gauge in. Important: be sure you have tightened the locknut! Doesn't have to be super tight, but tight enough that it won't come off while riding.

Its really not a hard job, just hard to explain. Let me know if you don't understand something.

If you pay a shop to do it, keep in mind you'll have to pay them to do it again shortly as the valve continues to wear. Once you wear it past the hardness of the metal, it wears fast! This is usually caused by an ineffective air filtration system. IE, dirt is getting in.

 

Wow, Randy, this really helps me out. I am slowly starting to learn about stuff with help from people like you!! I think I will toy around and try to figure out how to do it myself with such good info you have given me. Hope you don't mind if I have some more questions once I get into it. Again, thanks!

 

I don't mind... Glad to help.

You need to ask lots of question because I don't know what you already know... Therefore its hard for me to give out instructions if I assume you know something you don't (like what TDC means and stuff like that).

Maybe this can help out: http://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm

 

Randy,

When you say turn the engine over one more time, what excatly do you mean by that? Piston all the way down or what? Because you say once you find TDC to turn the engine "over" one more time to get it on the compression stroke. I don't quite get what you mean, Sorry learning as I go. Another thing, that plug you speak of to remove, is that the same plug that I started the thread about? Because it is on the left and looks like it would be in the right place to line up the flywheel. I am nervous to get into it because it starts and rides great now (after 20 min. initial hell starting) so I don't want to mess it up, I have no trailer and couldn't even get it to the shop if I messed it up. I know I need to get one, it's coming! Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

You need to get the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. The piston comes to the top twice per cycle. 720 degrees of crank rotation per cycle.

No, I don't mean the rubber plug. I mean the metal plug with a slot in it on the alternator cover. If there is a plug there, just remove that and line the mark up with the center of the hole. The mark should say "T" or "0".... Not "F" or anything like that. The manual says, "To ensure piston is on compression stroke, rotate crankshaft 1/4 turn past TDC while observing intake valve. If valve movement is indicated, rotate crank one full revolution and align timing marks again."

The only way you can really mess this up is to forget to tighten the lock nut on the valve adjuster.

Maybe I'll take a pic to help out.

 

Sorry it took so long.

Here's what the plug looks like on the LT4WD 250, Warrior, and Lakota:

 

#17 in this pic http://www.alpha-sports.com/satv/1995/LTF4WDX/14.htm is what you don't want to take out.