Carb cleaning
#2
all of the above. bowl off, float assembly off, test seperately, all jets out, soak and use piano wire to clean. soak, spray, scrub, compressed air, etc. take your time. clean every port and passage. pays off later. try to remember all screw settings, but may need to use manual to reorientate especially if someone messed with settings before. i have a small container of carb cleaner that i like to soak everthing in for a few hours. i then have a small tray that i put everything into to spray and scrub in. i like to test the float in a cup of water (cheaper than a cup of gas). get a good rebuild kit with gaskets. follow manual setting to get it close to factory settings. good luck.
#3
hey a few useful pointers (nothing specific, just various tips) that ive learned over the years for carb rebuilds are:
- suck on the fuel inlet with your mouth, and close off the pipe with your tounge (no homo). make sure that the new inlet needle has seated correctly and holds vacuum for a little while.
- check the float level, in a mikuni slide carb that will be the lever. i pretty sure it should be level with the bowl mounting plane. very rareley will the tang acutually need bending. if it's not right, make sure the needle seat is all the way in, and the needle isn't defective.
- get a 3" section of bicycle brake cable (the courser stuff, NOT that super fine throttle control cable) with a crimp-on lead end on one side. spread the cable strands apart in groups of 1 wire, 2, 3, etc. then you will have yourself the most useful carb cleaning tool in existence (BETTER than a torch tip cleaner).
- avoid ether based cleaners such as the carquest stuff. they work great for starting fluid, but dont clean as well as the [something else] based cleaners such as gumout.
good luck and let us know how things work out
- suck on the fuel inlet with your mouth, and close off the pipe with your tounge (no homo). make sure that the new inlet needle has seated correctly and holds vacuum for a little while.
- check the float level, in a mikuni slide carb that will be the lever. i pretty sure it should be level with the bowl mounting plane. very rareley will the tang acutually need bending. if it's not right, make sure the needle seat is all the way in, and the needle isn't defective.
- get a 3" section of bicycle brake cable (the courser stuff, NOT that super fine throttle control cable) with a crimp-on lead end on one side. spread the cable strands apart in groups of 1 wire, 2, 3, etc. then you will have yourself the most useful carb cleaning tool in existence (BETTER than a torch tip cleaner).
- avoid ether based cleaners such as the carquest stuff. they work great for starting fluid, but dont clean as well as the [something else] based cleaners such as gumout.
good luck and let us know how things work out
#4
Boy those ARE some good tips!
I've used guitar string to clean jets. Actually tried enlarging jets using it like a long rat-tail file, but it doesn't work as well as you'd think. Cleans it nice though!
I've used guitar string to clean jets. Actually tried enlarging jets using it like a long rat-tail file, but it doesn't work as well as you'd think. Cleans it nice though!
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