I have a 1983 Suzuki 185 we bought off a friend that has modified the engine. We want to get some new plastics to make it look more like a newer race quad. Does anyone know of any kits that would look good and not have to be fabricated to much to fit. I really like some of the quadzilla's and quadracer plastics but I dont want to spend the money and find out there is no way to make it work. Thank you

 

id look on fleabay or maybe look into cutting and painting the plastics with Krylon Fusion

 

Thank you. Im also Woundering How does the carb work on it I cant get it to start right the gas tank is lower then the carb. The gas tank hooks into a diaphram and then goes to the carb and there is a vacum line that is suppose to run from the diaphram some were when I hook it to the top of the intake manifold it starts then starts to die and shooting gas out of the over flow valve on the carb bowl. Then if I hurry and disconnect it real fast it will run (not idle) but I can ride it for about 15 mins then I have to repeat the steps all over again. I cant find anything online and its alittle diffrent then most carbs since the gas directly goes into the bowl so I dont know what the floats and pin valve shut off maybe vaccum to the diaphram to stop the gas?
Sorry I hope you understand all this

 

i dont think they made that bike in 83 i think 84 is what year it should be, try looking up parts under 84,and yes i member those kinda fuel setups on my alt125 and lt300 i used to have there a pain in the ***, one little bit of dirt in that fuel pump and they can run crappy or wont start as well and stuff, it sounds like the float is stuck inside the bowl and keeps letting gas pour into the bowl, floodling it out, i love those primers on the carb though mine had two chokes and a primer and i could start it in any type of weather, the rubber diaphram in the primer started like dry rotting and i smeared some gasket maker all over it real nice and that worked for almost a year then i finally just replaced the primer, the fuel pumps on those are real simple, they only bad thing about if you take them off and clean them is getting the hoses on in the right places and also not installing the pump backwards lol. heres a site some diagrams on your bike parts to get familiar with them 1984 Suzuki ATV Parts for LT185E, OEM and Aftermarket at BikeBandit.com

my 84 Alt125 and 87 i think Lt300 were the toughest bikes i prolly have ever owned i just didnt like some things about the fuel system, a HIGHLY reccomend getting a little inline filter for that bike.

 

Thank you so much for the info. It says it was made 8/83 so maybe it was so late in the year its considerd a 84. How does the floats keep fuel from coming in. I have 3 carbs that came with the atv for extra parts and on each of them if I blow in the fuel inlet and push up on the the floats air still comes threw. Then i noticed its not like other carbs the gas goes straight into the bowl from a hole dosnt even go threw the little float needle. Do you know were I could find a vacuum diagram so I Know I have all the lines hooked correctly?

 

the float has a fuel inlet valve in the middle of it when the float reaches a certain level the needle fuel inlet valve closes an opening where fuel comes through, the fuel inlet valve slide onto the a tab(tang) on the float and that tab can be adjusted bending it one way will close it to late causing too much fuel to come in and causing flooding, and bending it the opposite way will cause it to close early creating like a lean condition and also can make your bike run for a few minutes then just shut off until more fuel goes into the bowl, alot of the time when the floats stick its either the carb is dirty or the pivot pin that holds the float on is lose and keeps getting hung up on the carb walls.


to adjust them you gotta look in a manual and find the distance from the surface at which the bowl rests on to the top of the float, so it looks like this when you measure it.

 

I understand all that I think I have The Lines wrong Here are some pics please set me straight lol




what The fuel line hooks to now goes strait down the carb to a wide open hole it dosnt run to the Float valve needle I think I got it all wrong?

 

the inlet up top should be for a vent line, the fuel inlet should be the one near the primer, it looks different then what mine was but it still seems like thats how its supposed to be, im having a hard time trying to remember since its ben a while but it seems like u might have it backwards, so that top inlet should just have a short line on it hanging off out in nowhere since its just a vent hose, then the fuel should go in by the primer

 

I think ur right. The vent on top does it have a plastic piece at the end with a small slit? I think the other tube on the intake madifold goes to a 3way peice that hooks into the crank case and air cleaner to help with emissions or does that go to the fuel pump diaphram sorry to pick your brain I just dont know this kind of set up.

Thank you. You have lifted a big weight. I have been cranking that thing over alot trying to get it to run right. I have blisters on my hands and a sun burn lol. I notice there is another adjustment screw a little one not the idle and its screwed all the way in I didnt notice it until I looked at one of the part carbs and the part carbs have them screwed flush with the bowl. Do you know if that is a air screw mixture and should it not be all the way in.

 

yea i think ur right about the vents with the plastic piece and the inlet on the intake manifold is most likely a vent also, that other screw your talking about is a fuel screw it should be like a flat head screw and you adjust those all the way in till it stops then back it out about 2 1/2 turns or so as a reference then u can change it a little at a time to get it to run right depending on you location and such, two screws one is for air that makes it to the pilot jet nozzle this one is usually bigger and has a spring on it,A fuel screw is located underneath the float bowl and meters the amount of fuel that makes it to the carb’s main body an u can fine tune with the fuel screw if properly adjusted it will smooth out the way your bike advances through the rpms and such.