Hi, I am rebuilding an 86 LT230S Quadsport. So far I have purchased a DG RCM full exhaust system and a carb rebuild kit and installed them. I also have purchased a used stock crank with a stock connecting rod and a SUZUKI 85-88 LT230S Quad Sport Complete Gasket kit. I am also planning on purchasing a WISECO TOP END KIT 67.5MM 10.25:1 LT-230 QUADSPORT and a WebCams camshaft (Tier 1) grind #188.

Issue #1:
I rebuilt my carbrator with my new kit. When screwing in my air/fuel mixture screw I went too far and the tip broke off into the hole effectively clogging it. However I finished the rebuild and reinstalled the carb. The ATV started first kick and seemed to run fine with no problems and no bogging for the little time I was able to ride it, read issue #2 for why. What is a possible ramification of having the fuel/air screw stuck all the way in?

Issue #2: After the carb was reinstalled I decided to go for a test ride that lasted 10 minutes. I got up to full speed and kept it there to see if it would start to sputter after a 1/2 mile. (I had an issue with the old carb build where not enough fuel would enter the bowl and it would sputter after full throttle for extended periods.) It didn't and the rebuild was working, however I started to loose power after 2 miles and it eventually made a screetching sound and locked up. Tore down the engine that night and found the point where the connecting rod and crankshaft meet had no bearings, but metal shaving instead. It had oil, but it smoked it out pretty fast so it may have been low. The oil level indicator is foggy. So I am gonna rebuild the entire motor. Would the stock crank and connecting rod that I ordered work well with the new top end parts? Or should I buy a Hotrods Connecting Rod kit?

Cam rebuilding questions:
The springs are from 1986, is it recommended to order new springs? Also I am thinking of cleaning and polishing the valves, would this be just as good as buying new ones?

Gas type question:
With the new 10.25 compression ratio do I need to use 102 octane gas with this engine? I understand that newer engines with high compression ratios can run standard octane of 87 without issues, but older ones are more prone to detonation, etc.

Suspension and handling question:
This ATV feels like it wants to always flip. I am sure the front shocks are bad. What are some aftermarket shocks that some of you may be using that fit and work well with little to no modification?

Thankyou in advance, I would greatly appreceite answers and links to pages that would help me a lot.

 

Hey, welcome to the forum!

230's are prone to oil starvation at high rpm for extended periods. the lower crank bearing tends to sieze up pretty easily. send it out vincescycle and he will rebuild it for around $150 (including parts) and he's one of the nicest guys youll ever talk to and has a real passion for the 230. he will set you up with a vesrah rod and bearing that is better than oem and just as good as hotrods.

10.25:1 is fine for pump gas, but i run premium anyways. no need for race gas or octane booster.

as far as front shocks go, THEY SUCK. there are two routes to go about improving them; lt250r shocks (85-86), or works shocks. they are both amazing and i cant even begin to explain how much better they make the bike ride and handle. works are set up for exactly what you want (custom, around $400), while the 250r shocks are pretty close, but make the bike sit a little higher in the front end. to aid in stability, you may want to get 2+3 offset rims, which will give you +2 in the front end, safely. i dont reccomend spacers in the front as they cause bump steer and kill your upper balljoints. spacers are fine for the rear, or you can get an 85-87 (24 spline) lt250r axle and it will bolt right up and give you +3 overall in the rear.

good luck!

 

Thank you.

This morning I gave the motor to a guy who works on ATVs full time, also a really nice guy. I purchased all the parts this morning that I was planning on so I already have the hotrods connecting rod kit coming.

About the handling issue. I am a little confused and some of the terminology I do not currently understand. What is 2+3 offset rims and all the +2 and +3s mean exactly? I went looking for some shocks for the 250r and these are some I came up with. Would they be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Quadracer-Front-Works-Shocks-LT250-LT-250-LT250R_W0QQitemZ270399504161QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef510ff21&_trksid=p3286. c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A570|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|24 0%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

Suzuki LT250r 1987 to 1992 front 15.0 in. shocks 161 lb:eBay Motors (item 330328262010 end time Jun-05-09 11:13:08 PDT)

I also understand from your post that all LT230 stock shocks are bad even when new correct? I am asking this because I found these below look to be in good condition and are a lot cheaper than the LT250r shocks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-Quadrunner-LT230-LT-230E-230-Front-Shocks_W0QQitemZ140324679496QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMot ors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20ac00af48&_trk sid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|72%3A12 05|240%3A1318

 

I forgot to mention I did not order the cam yet and am still shopping for one. I was reading a thread here (link below) that recommended a LT250S cam. Would this cam work great? Also would all I need be the cam shaft?

ATV connection cam thread:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/suzu...0-web-cam.html

LT250S cam ordering catalog:
Alpha Sports - Suzuki ATV Parts Catalog

Again this needs to fit a 1986 LT230S, the cam is for a 1990 LT250S. Would be great to know this would work considering how much cheaper it is and I would not have to send in a core.

 

Offset is kinda confusing to me, too haha. i know that if you have a 5" wide rim, 2+3 means that the mounting surface (rim center) is located 2" in from one side, and 3" in from the other. what i dont know is how to determine which side the valve stem will be on. i'd just call a local shop and im sure they can help you out no problem. you want the farther offset on the OUTSIDE, not the inside like stock.

not all 230 shocks are neccescearily "bad" (i define bad as not having any rebound or compression control due to lack of fluid in the shock, since it can leak out over time). but even when functioning properly, they kinda suck hahaha. they are nice and soft at low speed, but the spring isn't progressive enough, and doesnt firm up enough through the stroke, and results in easy bottoming. if you look at an lt250r shock, you will see that they have closeley spaced coils and farther spaced coils. that provides a progressive rate that will give comfort and a plush ride at low speed, but automatically firm up on the bigger, faster stuff to prevent bottoming.

those lt250r shocks you found on ebay are NICE NICE NICE, but they're too long unless you want to modify your top shock mount. plus, 230 shocks from works will be cheaper, too, and they'll bolt right on. (the prices shown in the works catalog are HIGH, you need to talk to an authorized works dealer to get an actual price)

the 250s cam will fit the 230 fine. im just not quite sure what kind of power it will make, the guy to ask about that would be justrandy. he's tried a bunch of cams, even an lt-4wd unit hahaha! the stage 1 and 2 web units are popular, but i can understand why you might want to avoid them (core and valve springs needed). from what i understand theres actually abou 15 230 cams available from web, you just gotta call. megacycle also makes a few 230 cams.

hope this helps

 

The 250S cam is a definite improvement, and for $100 or whatever, its hard to beat the price/ease-to-install/power-improvement rating. But if you want the very best, an aftermarket cam might be a better choice. I don't know, I've never tried one. Its a $350 investment and you have to change springs and rockers, send your old cam in, wait around, etc. Lots of hassle, lots of cash, and who knows how much better it runs.

About the rims, you're not going to find an offset rim for the front that is not stock (for safety reasons I guess - wider front rims lead to bump steer, etc). And for the back, I think they're all pretty much wider in the back. A couple might be stock, which is zero offset, but I'm sure they're not in high demand and likely not to be offered.

 

Another thought, don't just have anyone do your rod bearings. Its not a matter of having a press, you need the RIGHT press. Best to let someone in the crank rebuilding business do it and not a general service shop. You don't want to screw around with your crank! Especially since you're dumping so much cash in it with questionable mechanic's skills (ie breaking carb screws, running it out of oil, asking lots of questions here, etc).

Definitely get a new intake valve. Inspect, clean, and lap the exhaust valve. You can get new springs if you want, the old ones are pretty old.

 

The guy I gave it to will know how to do it right and I know that for a fact.

I will admit I haven't ever worked on anything mechanical, but the reason I picked up this bike was to learn and then end up getting a really nice fast lt230 for relatively cheap. The ATVs I was looking at cost around 1500$ or so. This one will only cost me probably 700$ all together, and I get to learn something from it.

It never actually ran out of oil, I put in 2.3 qt a few days prior to the incident. I had the machine probably 5 days before the crank locked up. I don't think it could have smoked out that much oil so fast, when I drained it to work on the engine there was a decent amount of oil that came out. I was just saying I did not know how much was in it because the indicator is foggy.

I am asking a lot of questions because also before I got this ATV to work on I knew only general stuff about them.

 

true, just go for 4/166 pattern 10x5 wheel of your choice with a 2+3 offset... or 3+2, thats the part you gotta figure out haha.

i run the wider setup of the two on my 230 and it handles like a dream. no bump steer, balljoints are fine, i couldnt be happier.

but like i said before, DONT USE FRONT SPACERS!!! they extend the wheels too far out and things get dangerous lol...

of all the widening techniques out there, i still like this one due to the sheer simplicity of it:

http://www.diamondjcustoms.com/new/index.htm

i actually talked to those guys and they said they could whip me up a custom set, i just need to get a whole bunch of fancy measurments... i never got around to it hahaha

 

I am back and the is bike running great and starts up the first kick, everyone says it's a miracle because of the carb situation. It has an awesome mid range power band and always wheelies in 2nd gear once it hits it without me having to pull up. Haven't tested the top end yet though because it is still being broken in.

Anyway it is running lean. I have the needle as high as it will go but since the air/fuel mixture is screwed up I think that's causing it. Before I adjusted the needle I was getting pretty scary backfires and once had flame shoot out 1 foot. I read about (I think) Randy putting in a Mikuni VM28 flat side carburetor which gave him good results. Before I buy what do I need to know? Is it bolt in?