So, I did a little work with the body. I finally got the new grab bar on along with the front fender brace. I did have to add a short piece of ID 3/4" aluminum pipe to the end of the rear fender braces to make the fenders a bit more perky, I then fitted the ends with some rubber feet you see on canes and such for more cushion.








Just for the heck of it I did a quick paint job on the front grill it looks better than rust, I think the red really makes it stand out matching those red bars!



Still battling the leaky exhaust header problem, I even swapped the 3 bolt flange and used the one that was on the spare head I have, it fits snugger but has a weaker spring mount. So this one makes it not drip but spray a fine mist of crap all over the engine!



So I don't know, I think I am missing something here like a gasket or oring? The pipe slides right over the header flange with nothing to seal them but these FMF spring kits comes with 2 orings?? I am not talking about the crush washer inside the head itself I have one of those. I have a FMF Gold Series fatty pipe so am I missing these orings?

 

LT250R Before Restoration: Hill Climb & Drag Strip on Vimeo

YouTube - LT250R Before Restoration: Hill Climb & Drag Strip

 

Ok so it's been sitting for a few weeks in below freezing weather so I decided to start it up today. Started on choke brought it off almost right away and let it sit with a low idle, a few minutes later it putted out with the same sound it does when you forget to turn the gas on, but there gas was in the transparent gas line and it was on. So I restarted it and I had to rev it and play with the throttle without choke, if I choked it the idle would go too high. But while playing with it the engine went max RPM redline, scared the **** out of me! Wouldn't shut off with the kill switch for some odd reason so I pulled the plug wire off and IT STILL RAN MAX RPM FOR LIKE 20 SECONDS! I just abandoned my ship and ran behind a bush I thought it was going to blow up on me. You can't tell me it was arcing out of the boot across the motor and up the plug, I don't understand why the kill switch did not work while in powerband in neutral. Not good....

 

Both 250R Quadracers I had would do that when the carb was running out of fuel/forgot to turn on the gas etc... Check for air leak on the intake boot between carb and cylinder, air leak will cause high idle/revving also. I'm about positive one of those is the culprit. Like yours, mine wouldn't shut off with the kill switch either when it would do that. I would put it in first gear at a dead stop, hold front and rear brakes and release the clutch. The engine will stall out if you do that.

 

That would make sense because I'm missing one of the clamps for that inlet hose, but I did not think it would cause such a weird symptom. I can't believe I did not think of riding the clutch out instead of hiding behind a bush...

 

Yeah, scarred the **** out of my the first time it happened and the second, third ect....! Get it clamped down good and you should be OK as long as you got gas and its turned on. One other problem I had with mine was my intake boot ripped in half from the weight of the carb (no air box) and filter all being supported by the boot. If you have the same set up run a large zip tie around the filter/carb side and up over the frame to help support the weight. Good luck with it, I miss mine already after watching your vid!

I'l have to check on the year but I have a brand new LA Sleeve cylinder sleeve for a 250R I'd let go cheap if you ever need one. I'll look around but I'm sure I have more stuff for those quads laying around my garage.

 

Definitely let me know what you find for parts!

I almost forgot, I own a quadracer! We have several feet of snow here in MA, it's up to the top of the fenders. I forgot it was there and it started getting buried into a snow bank so I dug it out today:


About an hour later... hahaha


I had to put some gas in the cylinder and put the plug back in for it to start, after all it has been 20F all month and somtimes -5 at night. But I'm having the same problem I did when I put it away, the idle freaking out redlining the RPMs. So I tried getting a tight seal on that intake boot with zipties and pliers which is a lot tighter then I could get with an undersized hose clamp. There is NO air getting in anywhere I can see! If I turn the choke off it wants to die, so I played with the throttle to keep it going but most the times I brought the idle back up it just took off and redlined. It's definitely leaning out because the air/fuel screw is 1 1/2 turns out, and if I go closer to 1 turn out it dosen't redline as much but I had to keep putting it in gear and winding the engine down. I got fed up and pulled the carb but it was as clean and free as a whistle. So I'm wondering if the problem is really something else, can bad reeds do this? Someone said low compression could cause it, like bad rings or a bad sleeve. I wonder if that sound I was previously talking about in my video is a little piston slap and a bad sleeve....


Maybe this is the wrong year carb or something? The markings on it say "19A" with the number 10 below it. Then under that it says "T6" with a 1 under it then a space and another 1.

 

Possibly a bad base gasket. Just read through your post. The running with the plug wire off is the dreaded death rev. of a 2 stroke, the cylinder is soo hot from being lean it is auto ingiting the fuel. The heat and pressure is ingiting the fuel not the spark from the plug. Usually that's when things go bang cause it'll just rev.out till it blows cause it can't be stopped. A last ditch effort to stop it is to go wide open on the throttle to let cool air into the cylinder. Since it didn't blow or melt down consider yourself real lucky. You need to do a leak down test.

 

See that's what I thought, the engine is igniting itself like a diesel engine which dosen't sound good. All this over revving has got to be putting a lot of wear on something even only a few seconds at a time. I found a way to stop the engine by just letting the clutch out and riding it out sometimes up until 4th gear (tires just spinning) but then I found out that if I combine doing that with actually using the kill switch I can put it out by second gear. I do consider myself lucky seeing how it's revved out like that 10-20 times on separate runs/starts, guy said it had a new piston in it and sleeve supposedly (maybe it WAS and now I'm killing it and that's how it has not blown yet) So a compression test won't solve anything? Which "base gasket" are you referring to? The one between the tranny and the head? Thanks for your reply!

 

The gasket at the bottom of the cylinder where it meets the cases. I know it's hard to do but I wouldn't ride it till that's fixed. Leaning it out is the worst thing to do to a 2 stroke. Especially if it's revving out like that, it just takes one time for it to go all the way. P.S. you got guts riding out a real death rev. if that's what's happening! A compression test will tell if you have a bad head gasket letting air in but usually it'll let coolant in first. A leak down test will tell you if air is getting in from the bottom end.