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86 230lt shaft drive rescue

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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by bashr52
No the fuel inlet on the carb is actually on the right side. I had to extend my line around to match up. Tank location doesnt matter, as long as you're getting a good stream of gas to it somehow!

what about throttle will my exsiting throtle cable and choke cable hook directly into that thing or will i need new ones?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #72  
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Throttle cable bolts right on. Mine has a twist throttle and it went on with no issues. Not sure how your choke is setup, this one has the manual lever like on a 230s. You may be able to mod your cable to work? I dont know. On mine I just turn on the gas, flip the lever, kick it over and it fires up, and flip off the choke. No biggie
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by bashr52
Throttle cable bolts right on. Mine has a twist throttle and it went on with no issues. Not sure how your choke is setup, this one has the manual lever like on a 230s. You may be able to mod your cable to work? I dont know. On mine I just turn on the gas, flip the lever, kick it over and it fires up, and flip off the choke. No biggie

sweet that means i can just disconnect my choke and use the lever on this new carb.

my throttle how ever connects into the carb wherer the big spring and brass needle are. but i'll be able to figure it out.

i just want to make sure that all i need to order in the carb.

hope this thing works with the fuel pump in my LT.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Yep throttle connects the same way on this new carb. Fuel pump will not matter. It will run just fine with it.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by bashr52
Yep throttle connects the same way on this new carb. Fuel pump will not matter. It will run just fine with it.

ok well i got it back from the repiar shop and i think im happy about that cause the guy that worked there helped me load it into my truck and that's when i noticed his ankle braclet and not the fashinable type the state awarded type.

but the machnic that i talked to said the starting issue may be the compression so i head to harbor freight with in tention of getting a compression test and end up buying the tester 2 air tools and a multi purpose grinder sander thing.

oh and he said that being in Colorado you don't want a larger carb cause you loose low end power.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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I find that hard to believe. As long as it's jetted correctly, I'll bet money on it youll make more power than stock, even at a higher altitude.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by bashr52
I find that hard to believe. As long as it's jetted correctly, I'll bet money on it youll make more power than stock, even at a higher altitude.
yeah guess we'll see,

nee you help though the book says at sea lvl i should have 175-225 lbs of presure, i only have 120

how do i fix low compression?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #78  
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Thats sea level, you should be slightly lower than that at your altitude. #120 aint perfect but it should run. IT may just be gummed up rings from sitting. You may get lucky and it will loosen up some once you start running it. If not, it could be a leaky valve, or bad set of rings. Start with a valve adjustment. You may be looking at a top-end rebuild. I'd get the new carb, and run some good quality gas through it with some cleaner, and recheck it once you get some time on it. Soaking the engine overnight with some seafoam or other type cleaner in the chamber will help loosen up any deposits of crap.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 11:58 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by bashr52
Thats sea level, you should be slightly lower than that at your altitude. #120 aint perfect but it should run. IT may just be gummed up rings from sitting. You may get lucky and it will loosen up some once you start running it. If not, it could be a leaky valve, or bad set of rings. Start with a valve adjustment. You may be looking at a top-end rebuild. I'd get the new carb, and run some good quality gas through it with some cleaner, and recheck it once you get some time on it. Soaking the engine overnight with some seafoam or other type cleaner in the chamber will help loosen up any deposits of crap.

yeah i'm thinking of pulling the whole motor out of it but i'm kinda stuck at the shaft drive thing, i dont know exatly how to go about removing it before i take the motor out
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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Ok so believe it or not I actually got to motor pulled out of the frame (I can hardly believe I did it) it’s on blocks on my work bench (old wooden table I moved to my garage once I got the motor out)
I followed this repair book I have and got the cylinder head off (the thing that holds the cam shaft and value springs and such in) then I removed the cam shaft and timer chain gear and pulled the block off the piston.
The top of the piston has almost an ounce of oil on it. I’m no mechanic at all but I thought the piston rings were supposed to prevent oil from getting on top of the piston.
This is a four stroke.
So I have low compression and oil on the piston,
Can someone get me a link to a rebuild kit with gaskets and such? I’ve bought the wrong parts twice cause this is a 85 LT 230 GE F.
PS this is cool as ever I have air tools and an engine that is partial torn apart big step for my NON grease monkey butt.
 
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