To add when i took it apart originally the chain was just as loose as now and i didn't even have to remove the cam gear to remove the cam.

 

Where to start.... the cam bearings look a little scored like someone got a little goop-happy





Use extremely little goop. See how little you can use. One guy on here said he doesn't use any... just metal to metal. I tried it. Didn't work for me, but it doesn't need much goop to seal. Whatever you do, make sure it doesn't squeeze out into the cam bearing!

The oil looks bad too. You shouldn't let oil go until it's black. These engines have the transmission and clutch in the same oil that goes through all the bearings. Not good.... especially when you have 10 million gears in there.

I still can't see the cam chain stretching. It has twice as many plates as a 250S cam, yet the cam is less aggressive. If you can measure it, the book says the 20-pitch length should be 129mm (5.08 in).

Another thing I've seen happen a few times is the cam tensioner slips. The teeth get chipped or rounded and the ratchet slips.

Another possibility is you didn't put the chain guides in right.



Yup, the intake valve is worn. How did it get chipped?

 

To be honest i have no idea how it got chipped. It happened sometime between when I finished the rebuild and put it back together and when I had to replaced the head. That was because the guy who had it before me somehow cross threaded the plug and destroyed the threads. When i rebuilt and jacked up the compression it couldnt handle it and blew the plug clean out.

As for the chain tensioner, I know i put the guides in right and tensioner itself was in perfect condition. Im pretty sure that the chain is stretched out about a toot though. When you have your chain tensioned are you able to rotate the cam before everything tensions up?

 

I can take the tensioner out completely and still the chain is so tight I almost can't get the cam out.

How did you jack up the compression? If you milled the jug or removed gaskets, then that is why your chain is so loose. What I do in that case is weld a nut on the end of the tensioner to give it more reach.

I'm not going to believe your chain is stretched until you buy a new one and post a pic of the two hanging side by side so I can see it lol

 

So with mine if i take the tensioner out i can just slide the cam and gear straight out. Ill i did to raise the compression was new rings and lapping the valves. I put all gasekets back like factory with no milling. Im planning on just replacing the valves this summer and having the seats recut and probably just putting a new chain in. Have you ever had issues with welding that nut on.

 

New rings and lapping valves doesn't raise compression unless you mean they seal better. I thought you meant you raised the compression ratio.

I've never had an issue with welding the nuts on. I've done it more times than I can count on lots of brands of atvs. Another thing you can do is leave out the gasket on the tensioner. And you could add another base basket under the jug.

Be careful ordering the chain. Rockymtnatv sent me the 250S chain and then said they don't have the king chain. They let me keep the wrong chain though. It's a bit hard to find the right chain.

Also be careful ordering the flywheel puller. I can look for the part number later tonight if you want.

 

So just to clarify the KQ 300 chain woll have 3 plates like mine now? Amd that would be great if you could tell me that part number. Do you know if I would be able to rent one.

 

Not sure if you can rent one.

https://atvconnection.com/forums/suz...ml#post2787120

Yeah the new one will look like the old one.

 

Alright. Ill take a look at the lash in a few days and let you know but im pretty sure the chain is my issue. Thanks

 

Ok let me know how it went.