Ok so tonight I checked the valves and somewhat to my disappointment they were dead on . I checked the valves seats as well just by sticking a dental pick in through the plug hole and just feeling the seats. It felt like there was a little bit of cupping but nothing serious. I then made some timing marks on the starter cup and started it. When it was cold it was a difficult to start but nothing abnormal from how its been acting. When i ran it i found that it was advancing up to 25 degrees on the spark and it was a little jumpy on where the mark was. As of now Im just scratching my head and i have no idea where to look now.



Here is the video of the timing and the chain slap.

 

Are you absolutely sure the chain is loose? Can you pull the tensioner out and hold a screwdriver in the hole to tighten the chain? Might make a mess with the oil but you'll know if the sound goes away.

If it is loose, that's where your lowend torque went.

I've also wondered if someone forced the tensioner in without resetting it first. That would probably wear out the guides or maybe stretch the chain. It's just so hard to believe that beefy chain stretched.

The ignition timing looks good. 25 ain't bad. Some curves go up to 30-40.

 

As far as I know the tensioner was never installed incorrectly, by me at least. I did have a mechanic replace the valves about 4,000 miles ago and he may have installed it wrong. Ill do the check with the screwdriver later today. I think i also might put load on the machine by tying it off to my truck and see if the timing stays consistent. Thanks for the help, i really appreciate it because i have no idea what to do anymore.

 

So i checked the cam chain and measured down from the gasket surface with a punch and this is what i found.


I also forgot to mention, when i was rebuilding it, while i was waiting for some parts i took a dremel and on the inlet of the exhaust pipe i ground down the weld ring. The only reason i did this was because it looked abnormal and like it couldn't be replicate on another pipe, so i figured that it wasn't important. Do you think that by widening it by 1/8 inch overall would cause a problem.

 

 

You ground on the inside of the exhaust pipe? I don't see that causing a problem.

It definitely looks like your chain is too loose. Is there a chance someone else milled the jug or head previously?

 

That looks like you need 2 nuts welded on, but usually by the time you need 2 nuts, the repair doesn't last long until you need 3 which I don't think can be done. But I'm talking about the sport versions with the weaker chains. I haven't seen the king chain stretch yet.

Another question is: Did you put the right head gasket and base gasket on?

Can you take a closeup pic of the fins where the head meets the jug? I'll compare the gap in the fins with mine.

 

My 2001 suzuki quadrunner has a rough idle that goes up and down climbing to high rpms then trying to shut off. once in gear it runs fine in low rpms but when i get it up to higher rpms it bogs down and tries to stall. I cleaned the carb and replaced the main carb spring.
Could a bad fuel pump cause this problem?

 

Im absolutely sure that no one had ever been into the head or jug to mill it before. The people i bought it from didn't take very good care of it so its highly unlikely that it was milled.
The gap between the jug and head fins is 7.14mm (.28 in).

 

The idle going up n down means the carb is lean. Maybe an air leak or it's adjusted wrong or maybe a bad fuel pump. If you want to rule out the fuel pump, blow on the vent hose coming from the gas cap and that will force gas thru the pump.

Also, try turning on the headlights and see if that helps it run better at higher rpms. If so, you have a bad regulator.

My gap is about the same.

So if it wasn't milled and if the guides aren't worn and are installed right, then I guess the only thing it could be is a stretched chain.

After one place sent me the wrong chain, the best price I could find was these guys at $63 shipped Parts Department | Honda East Toledo | Maumee Ohio

Or you might could place a deep-well socket over the end of the tensioner and that will extend the reach. Maybe that will work for a while.