As you knew, the rear clutch assembly is good. I couldn't see exactly how far the bottom bearing is in but the post seems to be on all the way. I'd prolly hit the bearing again to make sure it's seated. The splined shaft should stick out more (it should be correct once you get the correct nut and it's tightened).
With the rear assembled hold the sheave with your hand. You should be able to spin the clutch assembly (with wheels off the ground).
You will need everything but the cover and o-ring for the front. I use a dab of grease to hold the rollers in place during assembly.
Good news is that the pads on the rear have plenty of life left in them.

 

Is it possible to overtighten the nut holding the tension spring. I've tried to hold the sheave and spin the tires and everything wants to move. I feel I'm missing one small step. I'll try to push the bottom bearing on in a little further. But it's pretty tight as is.

 

The big left handed nut? No, can't over tighten.
Maybe I said that wrong. When assembled, Hold the clutch hub and spin the sheave. The sheave should spin. The clutch hub indeed turns with the rear tires.

 

I am in the process of saving a 1990 lt80. the wiring harness was butchered, the starter was missing, no plastics .the poor little lt80 looked ruff, probably because the guy left it outside for many many years.

can anyone post up a how to put the rear clutch back together, pictures wont hurt.
when I took off the 1st nut the rear clutch launched off and parts went flying, the left handed nut went flying too, so it looks like it was just laying in there......
I did not know it was even on the floor a few feet away.
I figured out where that went.

I also took the front clutch apart and the rollers are shot. I have those orders.

thanks moe

 

The sheave and hub definitely move as one unit. Whether I hold the sheave and spins the tires or hold the sheave and spin the clutch hub, the sheave wants to move as well. With a decent mount of force I can get the sheave to move separate from the clutch hub.

Thoughts??

 

Moe, to find pics, go to a Suzuki dealers site. They have the parts fiche to look up.
If that big nut is off I suspect the threads to be bad on the post. FYI: big nut is left hand thread.

 

thank you!
moe

 

OK, went to the garage. I have a bottom end with the rear clutch on. Do this: remove all the clutch stuff. leave sheave on. Take the splined hub and slide it on. With you holding the splined part in, you should be able to spin the sheave. There should be a gap between the sheave and splined part. I'm thinking this is where the problem is. I'm back to the installation of the bearings. The post sticking out and contacting the splined part has to be what's happening.
Little bearing..When replacing: you removed the clip, then pushed the bearing out. Next you pushed the bearing in and bottomed it out, with the clip next. You seated the clip (I use a socket and give it a whack).
We talked about the big brg.
So tell me what it was.

 

Sorry for going silent. Had some other things on my plate. I went out and did as you suggested and the sheave spins freely while holding the hub limited clutch. Once I install the rest, mainly the clutch housing, is sticker and is harder to spin. I lightly sands the clutch pads as they has some sticky grime on them. It then spun better with the whole assembly put tohether. However, and this'll is the big however, once in intstall the belt and connect to the front clutch, the issue continue where he drive sheave and the clutch assembly want to move as one unit. It's definitely better than it was before. I can actually hold the sheave with one hand and move the clutch and it's moves free, but with th engine running the tires still spin at idle. Still better then before. Before I rebuilt everything as you suggests the engine would bog down and die if the tires were not moving, now it will bog down a little even if the tires are stationary. Baby steps I guess. I ordered all the little washers and nuts made specifically for the matchine and will install everything to spec and see what happens.

I did seat the big Bering further in with a socket no hammer, but that didn't not really change how much the shaft extended from the clutch unit. I'll update once i have all the OEM nuts and washers installed.

 

How are you making out?
If you sanded the shoes and it made a difference, we found a problem. The shoes shouldn't be that close to the drum.
Looked at pics again. Sure looks like the shoes are not retracted. Bazzinga!