Ok guys sorry for the double post. I will try cleaning the exhaust and checking the float again and replace it. I would like to also boil the carb do I do that with the jets in or take them out? I also want to check the gap on the spark plug what should it be at? I feel like when I just crack open the fuel shut off valve to restrict the flow going into the carburetor it seems to run better. Could the stator be on its way out or not in time?

Also if the float needle isn’t sealing properly will that cause the issue with having to run it with the vent on the carburetor blocked? Lt80 are you talking about the crank seals or the float needle seals? Merryman I tried running it with the exhaust off it doesn’t perform very well

Ok. Some news I tore the carb apart and found one tiny blade of grass in the float seat. I’m rebuilding for the 4th time now and I have the carb soaking in pine sol to clean it out good. Talked to the guy I bought it from the clutches have less than 10 hours on them. Also found plug gap was at .039 so adjusted that as well to .028.

Ok so I did some work this weekend. Put the exhaust in a fire for a while until it was glowing red. Installed new spark plug gapped properly, and installed the petcock back to factory besides having the shut off valve on and still has no power loading up with carb vent open all throttle ranges. Block carb vent and gets a little better but has no WOT power just still bogs. All this testing was with rear wheels jacked off ground. Pulled new spark plug and it’s wet. If I run it with the shut off valve closed right before it runs out of fuel it will run how I think it should. Idk what else to do or test. Possible just a bad carb?

Ok I’m looking for a new carb should I go factory or do the cheap ones work ok? Looking at Suzuki they have 2 different part numbers listed for an lt80 a 13200-40b00 and a 13200-40b10 what’s the difference just see a $10 price difference? 50 caliber racing has a carb for $45 is that a good one?