All is good. The key helps it not spin but it's the nut being tight that holds it in place.

 

 

It'll be fine. After 1988 or 89, they are all like that.
Make sure you install the front clutch spring washer the correct way.

 

 

No problem.
Yes and yes. You got it correct.

 

well, good news is its all back together and runs great!
bad news is the original problem of it not starting without me covering the intake is still present.
I guess it must be a carb issue with the float height , pilot jetting or that darn rubber o ring under the main jet.
It wants to start at first with choke on but doesnt have enough choke.
(maybe thats it? choke isnt chokey enough!)

maybe the 'moose racing'carb kit is just off a little....
the problems started after i installed the new carb kit. are there other kits you have used?
funny tho, it will start right up after its warm.
compress ( i tripple checked ) is 125
and new seals on the bottom end.

has to be carb


ill let you know If I ever resolve it!,
cheers
T

 

well I took out the little washer under the main jet and still wont start without my hand infront of the intake.
stalls once after that, then will stay running and start no prob untill its cold again.
must be something in that carb kit by moose. maybe Ill try a different kit, or find the old pilot jet and put it back.
im tempted to remove the inline fuel filter to see if thats causeing a bit of hessitation for fuel flo at the start.
cheers
T

 

 

Hello LT Granddad!
It is a new pilot jet from the new kit, however I did not stop to compare size of new vs old.
maybe it needs a bigger pilot and thats that?
if i could adjust the float level i would but its a plastic float.
maybe its the black main jet boot that I removed but i understood that most people leave them off?

story goes
I got the bike in the fall. once i freed the stuck piston and cleaned the carb it started easily. the air filter was a mouse nest and it all needed attention.
I wanted to make it run tops so I decided to rebuild the carb (needed gaskets mainly) and change the petcock (was all gummed up. )
but.... then I changed a bunch of stuff all at the same time.
petcock/air filter/and new carb kit/fuel filter.
thats when I started having problems.
would not start., actually it started right up, then died and then would not restart.
this was in nov? so it was probably around 5*C
so I am not sure about the cold weather affecting it.
I assumed that me running it for a few weeks had caused leaky crank gaskets or piston/rings to give out so
I took it in the bsmt and did crank seals and comp test and clutch work.

now still wont start without hand choking the intake for a few seconds. then it starts once, dies, i do it again and fuss with the amount of air i let by and
it will stay running and run real good.

Im stumped a bit.
I took the fuel filter out of the equation a few days back and it did not change anything.
now it is well below 0*c out there these days but when I put it all back together in the bsmt
last week it was nice and toasty and it still needed to be hand choked.

It must be an air leak in the carb system somewhere. Maybe i need a new choke plunger.?

ah, well get her eventually I bet.
currently have the transmission of a '59 oliver 550 apart too. so thats a big one on my plate ! (and trying to sort some electric probs with and eton 90)
thanks for chiming in tho
let me know if anything comes to mind
cheers
T

 

I seen "freed the stuck piston". This concerns me. Please explain the condition of the piston/cylinder when you had it apart. I guess I'm wondering why it stuck. Been sitting?
This problem is usually a lack of compression. I did read where you say it blew a 120 tho.