Take the cable out of throttle assembly and pull throttle cable with hand an see how it runs just to make sure that the only issues

 

good idea. I’ll try that

 

Any updates?

 

Funny you checked in (thank you by the way) because I hadn’t been able to mess with it until yesterday. So I tried “Take the cable out of throttle assembly and pull throttle cable with hand a see how it runs just to make sure that the only issue”. It started up and took off like a runaway diesel again. I messed with pulling the cable back and forth and you could hear the engine response but still so little amount of cable to pull. I’ll attached a photo of how much cable I can pull. I had to shut it off as quick as possible because it was spraying fuel out the area circled in the other photo and out the exhaust.

Where I am now… There’s no way the cable is long enough to be letting the needle seat down into the carb all the way. I’m basically starting it in full throttle every time. I think this is the reason for it taking off like it does right away. I’ve ordered a new throttle cable that is OEM and when it arrives I’m gonna see if the one I bought was wrong.

As for the fuel now dumping/ spraying out of both ends, I don’t know what’s causing this. Separate issue? A clue to something else? I won’t have any idea until I fix the carb/ cable issue and get this thing to stop shooting out of a cannon.

If this cable comes in and it’s no different then I give up and will have to take it to a shop.


All the further cable movement I have with the carb end put back together

Where fuel is dumping out

 

Good to know the cable in 1 issue you have fuel in crank case now remove spark plug but careful not to let engine close to spark plug hole and let engine cycle with starter to see if fuel sprays out there if so need to take compressed air hose nozzle blow across spark plug hole but make sure not blow compressed air down into cylinder let engine cycle over with starter while blowing compressed air across and everything dry then hollar back here after the new cable been installed

 

Suzukis with carbs must never be left with the fuel tap on prime. Most makes don't have an automatic tap so, if the float needle leaks, they have a drain pipe from the float chamber to leak the excess to the ground. Suzuki think they don't need this drain with having the automatic tap but, on prime, the tap is open all the time, so any fuel that leaks past the float needle, when the engine is stopped, will run into the engine and/or airbox.

I have set two LT80s on fire when pumping fuel from the cylinder, you may think the plug lead is a fair way from the fountain of fuel that comes out of the plug hole, but I now disconnect the ignition to avoid fires.

 

I got the new cable. I will try it next week when I get some time. As far as your instructions on getting fuel out of the crank case… is there a video I can watch of this being done? I am really inexperienced and with the other comment left about lighting the thing on fire, it has me pretty nervous to tackle getting the fuel out

 

All you can do is disconnect one of the thin leads to the coil, make sure it can't arc onto the frame, remove the plug and press the start button. Fuel will then fountain out of the plug hole so have an extinguisher ready, though papa hogg scoot's air line tip will probably work. Once fuel stops coming out of the plug hole, replace plug and leads and try to start, no choke and probably wide open throttle. It may still "wet the plug", so removing plug again and drying it may be needed before it fires up.

 

Well here’s where I’m at… throttle cable that I had ordered before (China version) was too short. The OEM part I just got from Partzilla fit perfect and allows the throttle to have full motion. I’m confident the jet needle is seating and doing what it should now. Lesson learned there.
From there I drained the fuel from the crankcase and blew it out from where the spark plug goes.
It runs now in idle without taking off like a bat out of hell!
Now my only issue is that it’s only idling and driving good with the choke on/ pulled up. If I’m riding it, the minute I take the choke off it bogs down and stalls out.
Throughout this whole fiasco I’ve messed with the idle screw, the height adjustment on the cap to the jet needle “chamber”, etc. Other than messing with those things, checking for loose bolts at carb, cracked gaskets, etc. any ideas what else to check? It had a clean carb before all this started so my mind doesn’t immediately go that route.

 

Does atv have good air filter? does atv start good? then slow jet sounds dirty or that circuit