water leaking out of the head on my zilla
#2
I see it is an '87 Zilla that doesn't mean it is a bad egg though. I heard that the '87 Zilla's were noted for that. Yeah checking the cylinder would be a very wise decision. If there is water in the cylinder you obviously would have to clean it out. What you could do is replace the gasket with a new one, but that would solve your problem for a short time. What you could do is e-mail TinityRacing.com about your problem or take it to you nearest Suzuki dealer and see what they say or hopefully someone who has had the same problem could tell you what to do. I myself have never owned a Zilla but it is a dream quad of mine. Anyways when you get your engine tore down if I were you I would check the piston and cylinder for signs of scoring, check the piston slap, check the play in the bearings, rings (if they have a lot of wear in them replace them) and don't forget when you replace them make sure you gap your rings to the right measurments. I tell you to do these things because I'm guessing it is original. I'm only 18 I don't know everything to do but if you have more questions just reply back and maybe I could help you some more.
#3
I havent run it for more than a minute since I got it becuase ive not time to ride it yet. today was the first time ive seen it do that and ive been around it for at least two hours a day for about a month (fixing stuff and polishing everything). Im also pretty sure that the bearings were already fixed by the previous owner. oh ya the bottom of the water pump was leaking a bit of water too. Any sugestions on that?
#4
Okay Qjunky,
the '87s have more problems with blowing the head gaskets than the other years. (Notice there's 6 head studs vs. 7 on the '88 and newer models.
TYPICALLY, a stock motor doesn't have much of a problem with this, but when the compression has been raised, and other motor mods performed, problems with blown head gaskets become more frequent.
(VOICE OF EXPERIENCE SPOKEN HERE)
It's not the end of the world. basically, take the head off to make sure the cylinder isn't filled with water. Oil it generously (The cylinder walls) with WD-40 or 2cycle oil so no rusting will occur (IF rusting occurs... your cylinder will need bored and a larger piston to fix it... so avoid it if possible!). If you keep the machine inside, make sure to cover it to keep the dust out while waiting for parts. If outside, make water-tight seal with duct tape or other method.
Get yourself a Suzuki service manual!!! This will help you with torque specs for the head studs, and the assembly/disassembly.
Now you have many choices: If the motor is stock, and you feel the rest is in good shape.. order another head gasket, clean the surfaces well, and re-assemble.
If the motor is needing re-freshed... start looking for a reputable builder (I can give you a few suggestions here if you like) but start fattening up your wallet.
The "best" fix for this is as follows:
Install 10mm studs (from '88 +newer) This will require the assistance of a machine shop and the removal of the cylinder to do so.
There are aftermarket gasket manufacturers that sell solid copper gaskets that also help solve this problem.
Waterpump leaking: you'll need to order another mechanical seal for the machine... they aren't hard to change, but again... the service manual is a valuable asset if you aren't that confident in doing the work.
BE CAREFUL HERE!!! the little nut that holds on the waterpump impeller has left hand threads!! Don't screw this up!
Again, it's not a big deal to fix many things on this machine... but if it's out of your league, get some help. (Dealer, etc.)
Hope this helps.
the '87s have more problems with blowing the head gaskets than the other years. (Notice there's 6 head studs vs. 7 on the '88 and newer models.
TYPICALLY, a stock motor doesn't have much of a problem with this, but when the compression has been raised, and other motor mods performed, problems with blown head gaskets become more frequent.
(VOICE OF EXPERIENCE SPOKEN HERE)
It's not the end of the world. basically, take the head off to make sure the cylinder isn't filled with water. Oil it generously (The cylinder walls) with WD-40 or 2cycle oil so no rusting will occur (IF rusting occurs... your cylinder will need bored and a larger piston to fix it... so avoid it if possible!). If you keep the machine inside, make sure to cover it to keep the dust out while waiting for parts. If outside, make water-tight seal with duct tape or other method.
Get yourself a Suzuki service manual!!! This will help you with torque specs for the head studs, and the assembly/disassembly.
Now you have many choices: If the motor is stock, and you feel the rest is in good shape.. order another head gasket, clean the surfaces well, and re-assemble.
If the motor is needing re-freshed... start looking for a reputable builder (I can give you a few suggestions here if you like) but start fattening up your wallet.
The "best" fix for this is as follows:
Install 10mm studs (from '88 +newer) This will require the assistance of a machine shop and the removal of the cylinder to do so.
There are aftermarket gasket manufacturers that sell solid copper gaskets that also help solve this problem.
Waterpump leaking: you'll need to order another mechanical seal for the machine... they aren't hard to change, but again... the service manual is a valuable asset if you aren't that confident in doing the work.
BE CAREFUL HERE!!! the little nut that holds on the waterpump impeller has left hand threads!! Don't screw this up!
Again, it's not a big deal to fix many things on this machine... but if it's out of your league, get some help. (Dealer, etc.)
Hope this helps.
#5
Sorry Duneaddict just tryin ta help a guy out. I may not have as much experience as you. I'm glad you know that stuff. That way I can learn from people like you, thanx. Besides QuadJunky said ANY response would be appreciated. You must have had the same problem yourself since you have a '87 Zilla.
#6
Thanks for the help boys. Ill probably put in bigger studs and im still looking for a manual so its gonna be at least two weeks before any thing happens. I guess ill have to hang tough until then. Thanks again.
New developments with my probs. I was checking the torque on the head and one of the studs wasnt tightening. I backed the nut out and the stud ripped out so I guess its new studs for sure or if my local dealer says beyond repair (becuase its lookin that way) Ill need a new cylinder. Can one of you guys, or someone else, tell me how much a new cylinder is worth? Will an '88+ cylinder be mounted or does it have to be an '87?
New developments with my probs. I was checking the torque on the head and one of the studs wasnt tightening. I backed the nut out and the stud ripped out so I guess its new studs for sure or if my local dealer says beyond repair (becuase its lookin that way) Ill need a new cylinder. Can one of you guys, or someone else, tell me how much a new cylinder is worth? Will an '88+ cylinder be mounted or does it have to be an '87?
#7
Well I looked one of my catalogs and a genuine Suzuki cylinder will put you back about$490. As for mounting an '88 on I think you can, not sure. I say that....cause I seen a guy have a an '87 250 Quadracer and mount an '88 cyinder on it, but that is a 250. It may also require machining. Hopefully Duneaddict will tell you some more on this. If need some more help reply back.
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#9
I didn't mean to offend you Superstar.... we're all here to learn something
Junky, This problem with the stud stripping is COMMON... That's why I suggested using the 10mm studs from the 88+ motors.
You're dealer may tell you it's beyond repair, because he wants to sell you a new cylinder (Depending on if you have a good dealer or not)
This may require you to order the studs, and take your cylinder to a competent machine shop to do the work.
I wouldn't toss away your cylinder because of this... If you do, I'll give you $50 for it!
Yes, an 88+ cylinder will work on your bottom end, however, it will require you to also purchase a new reed cage and rubber intake boot. (Way smaller on the newer models)
So it's a pretty hefty price tag to get a new cylinder.
The 10mm studs work, I did this to mine in March, and they're holding strong.
Junky, This problem with the stud stripping is COMMON... That's why I suggested using the 10mm studs from the 88+ motors.
You're dealer may tell you it's beyond repair, because he wants to sell you a new cylinder (Depending on if you have a good dealer or not)
This may require you to order the studs, and take your cylinder to a competent machine shop to do the work.
I wouldn't toss away your cylinder because of this... If you do, I'll give you $50 for it!
Yes, an 88+ cylinder will work on your bottom end, however, it will require you to also purchase a new reed cage and rubber intake boot. (Way smaller on the newer models)
So it's a pretty hefty price tag to get a new cylinder.
The 10mm studs work, I did this to mine in March, and they're holding strong.
#10
You could always have someone weld up the hole, drill it out and tap for a new stud, too............I run an O-ringed Cool Head on my 87, and it's been bored .080 over, ported, polished, aftermarket pipe, carb, reed cage, and airbox mods, and I haven't had any problems with leaking or blon head gaskets......just another 2 pennies for ya.....
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