I took some of your advice and finished breaking in my Z, serviced it, and uncorked it (CA model). I removed the snorkel and lid. I rejetted to a 152.5, and I removed the noise baffle in the pipe--but left the spark arrestor intact. It opened the stock pipe up to 1.5 inches of flow. I took it out this morning for a test--WOW!!! This thing bleeping rips. I am totally amazed by the power gains top and bottom. Total cost, 8 dollars and a few hours of work (removing the noise baffle without damaging the screen took the most time). If you haven't uncorked your Z yet, do it. I was on the verge of selling mine, now it's a whole different quad and story. Thanks for the advice guys!
Jason K

 

hey 322 could you explain a little more in depth how you pulled the baffle but kept the spark arrester. on mine when you pull the end cap it has the screen welded on the inside to the end cap with a cap on the end of the screen. did you cut off the spark arrester, then cut out the inside of the end cap, and weld the spark arrester back into the hollowed out end cap?

 

No, I didn't cut and weld it because I didn't want to effect the chrome. I took the end cap off, screen included, and put it in my vise with aluminum mounts. Then I took my sawsall, that the speed varies proportinate to the trigger, and cut the noise baffle into slices. Since the noise insert is spot welded in I carefully cut it into four pieces longways or parallel to the spark arrestor. Be careful not to cut to deep or you will damage the screen. The noise baffle is spot welded to the sides in three places. By cutting four times I was able to let one 'slice' of the baffle fall out. This allowed me to get underneath the spot welded pieces and work them back and fourth until the spot welds broke. I got inpatient and actually used a chisel to break the last spot weld. This is a fairly simple but tedious process. Once you start cutting you are committed to the project and it will look like a mess until the last piece comes out. The final product is a nice looking end cap that is still chrome, S/A legal and flows alot more exhaust. Besides if you do mess it up you can replace the cap or have a good reason to invest in a new exhaust. Good luck.

 

The easier way to get the end out of the exhaust without damaging the spark arrestor is to obviously first remove the end of the exhaust just undo the three allenkey bolts then get someone to hold it in a drill press then get a 1"3/8 (35mm) holesaw drill and carefully drill out the pea shooter end. This works perfectly and leaves the spark arrestor in perfect working order it should only take you about five minutes to do.

 

thanks i'll try it

 

Nice post. I'm gonna try this too. I'm also looking for a way to cut a large hole in the airbox lid and then cover it with Outerwears material. Anyone have any ideas on how to make that look good.

 

could someone post a picture of what is done?
I've been having brain-farts all week. *sigh*

 

Well, it's been 2 hours and I got the end cap mod done. I just used a small drill bit to make holes all the way around the recessed part of the noise baffle. Then a few taps with a small sharp chisel and the nozzle came right out. Then we used a die grinder to smooth the edges and remove the remainder of the noise baffle. It sounds really good this way too. A nice low grunt, but not too loud. If I have time, I'll pull the main jet tonight and try the 152.5 tomorrow. 322, Thanks for the info.

 

How much louder does it make it? Could someone describe the snorkel mod. What is the stock jet number? I remember people talking about these same types of things when the 400ex came out to.

 

322-Let us know if you are ever looking for someone to ride with. We ride the high desert quite often during the cool months. My favorites are Wild Wash and Rasor. During the hot months we ride the SB Mtns and Sierra.